Posthole Digger Post Hole Digger vs Bucket Spade for Pulling Small Trees

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

What I do to rip out ash trees is hook up my subsoiler and cut a square around the tree to break the roots. Sometimes if the tree isn't cooperating, I use the forks or just one fork in the middle to further break the stubborn root. Then I use a chain to pull out the stump. On the bigger trees I'll first cut it off 6-10' high so it doesn't fall on me when I'm pulling it over. Smaller trees I push over with the FEL. With my tractor, I've used this method on ash trees 10-12" in diameter.

My ash are all dying from EAB and I'm trying to reclaim a field which is why I want the roots out.

I have a subsoiler so I'll definitely give that a go when I have room to work around the trees. How do you safely cut the trees that high?

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

I would suggest you pick up a ouple of pulleys, a good static rope, and set up a 5:1 .mechanical advantage to your tractor. This would be safer and easier on your equipment. Of course it's easy for me to say because already have the pulleys. Take a look at this video to see what a little leverage can do for you
Mechanical Advantage vs. Straight Pull Stumpin' - YouTube

I've spent the last couple days YouTubing mechanical advantage. I wish my physics teachers would have started their classes with those videos (ok, we didn't have YouTube). I would have paid a lot more attention!

The "U-RIG" system in Tom Hoffman's video is an absolutely elegant system. One that will cost me about $500 to put together. I'm trying to convince myself how useful it will be if I build one...

One question I have is what defines a "Good" static rope? The sky is the limit on that stuff and I want enough to get the job done and last a long time but not go completely overboard.

 

[ericm979]

Static rope is low stretch. Dynamic rope is made to arrest a rock climber's fall. You want some stretch if you're falling 10, 20 or more feet before the rope catches, which is how it works when you're lead climbing and the last protection is below you. Stretchy dynamic rope is over 10-12% stretch. Back when I was climbing long ago good kernmantle rock climbing rope was around 10%. By contrast the rope I got recently from Bailey's for tree pulling is rated at 1.5%. They have it listed under climbing ropes. I guess tree climbers must always top rope. I know I always did when I was tree climbing for the Forest Service but we used some different techniques than normal arborists do so I'm not sure my experience there is totally applicable to regular arborist climbing.

Anyhow, for pulling you want low stretch rope. One of Terry Hales youtube videos shows why stretch is bad for pulling ropes.
I think it's this one: Pulling Trees Down With Rope - YouTube

 

[jemclimber]

Jem are my initials, climber means I work in trees with saws and pruning equipment. Usually I cut them from my tractor though because I don't want to put on a harness and climbers (spikes). If I'm doing a bunch then I gear up. Going up 10' and popping the top off takes very little time. I've ripped out more than 75 ash trees out back and still have many more to do.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Jem are my initials, climber means I work in trees with saws and pruning equipment. Usually I cut them from my tractor though because I don't want to put on a harness and climbers (spikes). If I'm doing a bunch then I gear up. Going up 10' and popping the top off takes very little time. I've ripped out more than 75 ash trees out back and still have many more to do.

Thanks for the explanation. That's definitely not work I'd be comfortable with. I hope you're feeding a nice stove with all that Ash!

I have a plan taking bits and pieces from this thread. None of them involve either a post hole digger or a bucket spade ;-)

1. Use a subsoiler around the root ball to rip the small roots out. I own one so I may as well use it.

2. Try to do the work when the ground is moist enough to let go of the tree.

3. Cut the stump as high as I can to increase leverage. For me that's probably 4 feet or so. I'm no climber.

4. Mechanical Advantage. Tom Hoffman's videos are a great into to how much more work a tractor can do with the right knowledge and equipment.

I'll post back after I've had a chance to test a few of these techniques. I have a few easy trees to remove with plenty of room to play around before I start clearing trails in the woods.

 

[mardenm]

I've spent the last couple days YouTubing mechanical advantage. I wish my physics teachers would have started their classes with those videos (ok, we didn't have YouTube). I would have paid a lot more attention!

The "U-RIG" system in Tom Hoffman's video is an absolutely elegant system. One that will cost me about $500 to put together. I'm trying to convince myself how useful it will be if I build one...

One question I have is what defines a "Good" static rope? The sky is the limit on that stuff and I want enough to get the job done and last a long time but not go completely overboard.

Here is a good static rope to use for one of these pulley systems. I also have some HTP 10mm, but just bought this 11mm too. By the way, i find treestuff, Baileys, and Sherrill Tree are awesome sites for arborist equipment:

TreeStuff - Sterling HTP Static 11mm Rope

 

[mopardude318]

Just don't do this:
(Classic: Oldie but a goodie)

OMG. that can't be real...?? That's hilarious. i watched that dang clip over and over. LOL LOL

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Here is a good static rope to use for one of these pulley systems. I also have some HTP 10mm, but just bought this 11mm too. By the way, i find treestuff, Baileys, and Sherrill Tree are awesome sites for arborist equipment:

TreeStuff - Sterling HTP Static 11mm Rope

I ended up purchasing the entire kit from Treestuff.com. They have it listed on their site. One of the prusiks had to be substituted but it is available. Great price for the whole kit and fast shipping. Looking forward to trying it out!