Dirt Moving Tooth Bar Advice

[Snobdds]

Have you ever used a Ratchet Rake?

No I haven't, but i have used a landscape rake. I think it would be a really specialized tool, basically only being about to back drag things. I know it can be used in the forward gears too, but I don't think there's enough structural rigidity and one would have to be overly cautious to not get caught up on anything.

Now the closest comparison productivity wise, would be a landscape rake, which can be used forward and backwards. I like that I can back into something, not exposing my front end to hazards, and drive off. I can also angle it to windrow material if needed.

How is the ratchet rake preferred over, say, a landscape rake?

 

[jeff9366]

Home: Forum: Kubota: Kubota Owning/Operating: Dirt Moving Tooth Bar Advice

It seems every post about a road or clearing brush, you always make a long winded promotion of the ratchet rake. Now I understand you may just be a big fan, but with the volume of promotion it has to be venturing into paid endorsement territory.

In this post you intimate that a Ratchet rake is not versatile, without first hand experience using one. Based on your assumption that the Ratchet Rake is not versatile, you post an assertion that I must be in RR's pay.

I seldom offer equipment opinions unless I have operated an attachment or implement for some time. When I do offer an opinion, my posts tend to be detailed so the information is valuable to those with less knowledge. One or two sentence posts are OK, as yours usually are, but not overly helpful to newbies.

Your query would have been reasonable as a Private Message. I would have replied the same, but at less length.

 

[Snobdds]

In this post you intimate that a Ratchet rake is not versatile, without first hand experience using one. Based on your assumption that the Ratchet Rake is not versatile, you post an assertion that I must be in RR's pay.

I seldom offer equipment opinions unless I have operated an attachment or implement for some time. When I do offer an opinion, my posts tend to be detailed so the information is valuable to those with less knowledge. One or two sentence posts are OK, as yours usually are, but not overly helpful to newbies.

Your query would have been diplomatic as a Private Message. I would have replied the same, but at less length.

That is quite the logical leap to make that assertion. I never once said it was not a versatile piece of equipment, feel free to quote me if I am wrong. I was merely pointing out your fondness for the RR, as exemplified by my hammer and nail example.

 

[PILOON]

Over a 35 year period I have maintained built some roads and more than just a few gravel road beds and drives.
I own a back blade and tooth bar bucket.
All do a decent job with practice but my overall best is a decent 'drag'.

As such a 3 blade drag is by far the best INMHO providing you can make turns at the end of the road/drive.
The best drag we made has 3 blades all angled with the central one being opposite to the other 2 and also the angle of it is the sum of the others.
(like frt and rear at 15 deg with central at 30 deg) this so that the drag won't pull to the side.
The angles slice off the bumps and the side angle moves the excess over to the dips thus filling them in.
With the angles the lose material travels lweft to right and back to the left leaving a nice finish usually in one pass.

With 3 blades you don't end up with ups and downs as generally always 2 of the three act as limiter with the 3rd cutting as you go along.

I discovered this technique way back in the 50's when most of the country roads in these parts were gov't maintained and since it worked for them i decided to make mine. Also cheap as I could use up scraps that I had on hand.
Adding a 'deck' to add some weight makes it more aggressive.

 

[ProjectKing]

Over a 35 year period I have maintained built some roads and more than just a few gravel road beds and drives.
I own a back blade and tooth bar bucket.
All do a decent job with practice but my overall best is a decent 'drag'.

As such a 3 blade drag is by far the best INMHO providing you can make turns at the end of the road/drive.
The best drag we made has 3 blades all angled with the central one being opposite to the other 2 and also the angle of it is the sum of the others.
(like frt and rear at 15 deg with central at 30 deg) this so that the drag won't pull to the side.
The angles slice off the bumps and the side angle moves the excess over to the dips thus filling them in.
With the angles the lose material travels lweft to right and back to the left leaving a nice finish usually in one pass.

With 3 blades you don't end up with ups and downs as generally always 2 of the three act as limiter with the 3rd cutting as you go along.

I discovered this technique way back in the 50's when most of the country roads in these parts were gov't maintained and since it worked for them i decided to make mine. Also cheap as I could use up scraps that I had on hand.
Adding a 'deck' to add some weight makes it more aggressive.

This is a land plane or what they call a land plane now. Really helps to take the dips out.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

No I haven't, but i have used a landscape rake. I think it would be a really specialized tool, basically only being about to back drag things. I know it can be used in the forward gears too, but I don't think there's enough structural rigidity and one would have to be overly cautious to not get caught up on anything.

Now the closest comparison productivity wise, would be a landscape rake, which can be used forward and backwards. I like that I can back into something, not exposing my front end to hazards, and drive off. I can also angle it to windrow material if needed.

How is the ratchet rake preferred over, say, a landscape rake?

I've owned/own both. They are different enough to not be fairly comparable. The Landscape rake I owned was more flexible and much bigger and for sure a 3ph implement. I rarely backed up with it and almost always just drove forward catching "stuff" in it's large semi rounded tines. The RR is a super strong thick metal toothed edge for aggresive brush clearing going forward and itcan be dropped to ground level and the lower down pointing teeth can dig at and level the ground and snag roots in both forward and revers with extra down pressure put on it with pushing down on the fel arms so weight of the tractor becomes part of the pressure.
I really wouldn't compare them since so different and do different jobs. Both are better than just one and which one depends on what you want it to do.

 

[NC419N]

Box Blade with ripper shanks and a BX Ex pander bolt in front bucket blade and you will be set for most road projects. Like most others have said the heaver the box blade generally the better

 

[siman00]

NC419N, please excuse my lack of knowledge. Can you please explain what you mean by "a BX Expander bolt in front bucket blade"? Thanks!

 

[mopardude318]

Lookin at a tooth bar myself, I don't have time to fuss around and make one. I'm leaning towards a WR Long.

Question, 1" shanks, or 1 1/2" shanks?

I'm thinkin 1 1/2" shanks. Little more weight, little more money. Should be fine on a M7060 with 72" round back bucket...

W.R. Long Tooth bar for Tractors and Skid Steers | Add a tooth bar to your tractor or skid steer bucket with a bolt on tooth bar

W.R. Long Special Tooth bar for Tractors and Skid Steers | Add a tooth bar to your tractor or skid steer bucket with a bolt on tooth bar

 

[teg]

...I'm thinkin 1 1/2" shanks....

With your tractor, yes...