Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground

   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #1  

upstatefarm

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Scotia NY
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I'm building an extension on an existing shed, for a boat shed, the extension will be 16'W x 24'L. Doing 99% of it by myself. Due to the the large rocks in-ground I excavated the holes with a friend's backhoe... an auger just wouldn't cut it. So I have fairly large holes, about 2.5' wide by 3.5' long (and 48" deep). My soil is heavy clay (and with the huge amount of rain we've had, the holes filled with water right after they were dug.)

My question is this: Should I go with piers, or with a modified in-ground/backfill approach? Or use sonotube with the post set in concrete? I've read all the debates, and yeah, maybe I'm over-thinking it.

I'm also planning on making my own laminated posts, with PT 2x6's and 1/2" plywoood, making 4x6's; much easier to handle by myself, and straighter. But all I can find in ground contact 2x6's is .15 MCA, which isn't the .60 recommended by many. So is encasing this kind of post in concrete a mistake?

Piers would be a LOT easier for me to do, for many reasons. But how do I avoid the problems with piers... the wind shear problems, uplift, etc? I do plan to sheath all the walls, but it's in a pretty high wind area... there's about a 1000' open field to the west, and I've had up to 70 mph wind gusts. I don't want a collapse, etc. I'm not an engineer and I don't know much about bracing, and piers seem to hinge solely on a bracket... kinda scary to me.


So far the plan that makes the most sense to me is this "modified backfill":
Pump the water out, put a plastic contractor bag around a 12" (or 18"?) sonotube, drop it in, pour a footer, let cure overnight, put 8" of #2 crushed rock or gravel over the footer, set post, use a 2x6 cross piece at bottom of post to aid in uplift retention, backfill with about 12" more gravel, backfill with dirt. Tamp often during the process.

What I like is that I'll have pretty good drainage, avoid the issues with concrete and rot, avoid problems of piers, and it's fairly easy construction given my conditions. But what concerns me is this:
the ground is not undisturbed now... will my backfill hold it? Will the post uplift through the gravel and dirt, even though there's a 12" cross piece? Will the sonotube itself be more prone to pulling out?

Many thanks for any good ideas!
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #2  
Keep the wood above ground.
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #3  
Check these out.

Perma-Column | Permanent Foundation Systems | Home




If there is that much water, I'd be hesitant about subjecting wood to being saturated all the time. Concrete is far more durable in the ground. When I build my shop, the only thing i will put below grade is concrete .
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks, I hear you both, and yeah, that is a concern, which is why I originally planned on the piers. I just did a little research on wind bracing, I guess it's not rocket science... maybe I'll go with the piers, and I'll jsut x-brace between all the posts, I guess. And a diagonal brace from the existing shed poles to the top plates. Thanks!
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #5  
Happy to help. :thumbsup: Just make sure that your connections are adequate if you have to pass inspections. Don't forget about uplift forces too!
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #6  
Considering the size of your hole, and the just about impossible task of backfilling it to get any compaction, and also considering the huge expense to try to fill in the entire hole with concrete, this is what I would do.

First, dump the laminate post idea. Treated 6x6's are heavy, but with a little planning, not too bad to get around. They stay straight, they are super strong and they solve all your issues. On a building, they never rot unless you have water standing on the posts. Make sure you have good drainage!!!

Set the post in the ground with some lag bolts sticking out around the bottom of it. Then build up a dirt dam around the post, or use a sono tube. You want about a foot of concrete on the foot of that post in all directions, and thickness. Once that cures, fill with dirt, compacting as you fill to the best of your ability.
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #7  
I'd pour a footer "pad" in each hole, or put down gravel and drop a pre-cast concrete cookie. Then build your frame with 6x6 posts and wall gifts to square up the posts. When the frame is the way you want, backfill the holes 1-2' with dry concrete mix and top with dirt. Then go about the rest of your construction. I've done it this way twice now, with very good results. If you use a piece of rebar to help settle the dry mix around the posts, it locks them in place very solidly.
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #8  
I've used pressure treated 4"x4" posts for structures in two completely differing environments on my property. One where the soil is dry 100% of the time and these posts are still in perfect condition. The other - the soil is damp to water saturated 100% of the time. Here the post last around 15 years before they rot off at the ground level.

My suggestion - keep the wood out of the ground. Use concrete in the ground - wood out of the ground.
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #9  
Pictures:
image.jpeg

[video]http://polebarnsdirect.com/customizations/pole-barn-perma-columns/[/video]

More info.
 
   / Pole construction... my dilmena with concrete piers vs. in ground #10  
Pictures:
View attachment 517135

[video]http://polebarnsdirect.com/customizations/pole-barn-perma-columns/[/video]

More info.

That also looks like a good idea for existing posts that have rotted off at ground level, but have a floor slab poured around them.
Cut the rotted post flush with floor, slide post bracket assembly under, drill expansion bolt holes in floor, install expansion bolts, and put lags into sides of post.
My Morton is now 34 years old, and the posts still seem good, but just underground, they may not be as good as I think they are.
 

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