3rd Function Valve with backhoe

[jdb4whlr28]

I have a Massey Furgeson 1528 and recently added a woods bh70x to it. When the backhoe was installed the shop ran lines to the back of the tractor (I'm assuming from the PB?). I know these have to be connected together when the backhoe is off or it will deadhead the pump.

What I'd like to do is actuate a cylinder on my plow attachment for the FEL so I can adjust the angle rather than have to do it manually. Can I run lines to an open center valve (different from the main FEL valve) from those rear hookups for the backhoe so I would basically have a third function valve? I would then run another set of lines from the new valve to the FEL. I know it wouldn't be able to be used when I have the backhoe on.

Just looking for advice/suggestions!

 

[CincyFlyer]

While there is no reason you could not, and you can even pick up the power beyond up at the FEL joystick, and put your new valve there. If you don't have a tank line, you'd not be able to use the three-point lift (or wherever the PB goes next) at the same time, but that should be no issue.

 

[N2DFire]

ok - I'm going to start with my overly simplistic understanding of the basic hydraulic circuit on most all SCUTs/CUTs- Yours may do something entirely different.

Tank -> Pump -> Power Steering (if not fed from a separate pump/output) -> Loader Valve (Lift/Lower function then Dump/Curl function then out the Power Beyond Port) -> Rear Remotes (SCV's) if present -> 3 Point Lift -> back to the Tank

If I understand what you're saying then it sounds like
1) You didn't have any rear SCV's to begin with
2) Instead of installing an actual rear SCV that your BH installer simply broke the leg of the circuit between your loader & 3pt and ran that to the rear with Quick Disconnects. Your BH controls are open center (or tandem center) which allows the fluid flow to continue thru the BH and back into the normal circuit and into your 3pt and on down the line. This is further evidenced by the fact you have to install a connector between them otherwise the pump is pushing fluid to a closed coupler and you get the deadhead you describe.

If that is the case I would simply "upgrade" their work to include a Rear Valve (or three) making sure that one has a Detent feature (this is a feature that holds the valve in the open/operating position until you manually move it back). You would then just connect your BH back to this valve & move it to the detented position and things continue to work like they do now.

If you are fairly savvy with fabrication & want to do some of your own homework and research then places like
Discount Hydraulic Hose
Prince Hydraulics Cylinders, Power Units, Valves & Pumps - Dalton Hydraulic
Surplus Center

will have most everything you need. You'll just have to piece it all together.

If you'd rather have something more "Turn Key" then I'd suggest either contacting a Massy dealer to see what they offer or Brian (aka MtnViewRanch here) at http://www.fitritehydraulics.com and let him help you put together a package. Brian's will still require a little Fab work on your part but he will help you pick out the valves you need and will be there to walk you through the hard stuff.

Best of luck what ever way you decide.

 

[jdb4whlr28]

Thanks for the info! I believe you are correct with the circuit. I looked it over when I got home from work last night and they definitely interrupted the loader circuit to plumb in the rear quick disconnects. I'll post a couple pictures of it tonight when I get home.
I'm fairly savvy with fabrication (by no means an expert) so I'll check out those sites and see what they have to offer. I just wanted to check in with someone who's more knowledgeable with hydraulic circuits before I end up creating something that would destroy the pump :laughing:

 

[N2DFire]

I just wanted to check in with someone who's more knowledgeable with hydraulic circuits before I end up creating something that would destroy the pump :laughing:

Well in that case you better wait for someone else to come along because I know just enough to be dangerous. LOL

I did the 3rd function on our CK from scratch and I did a TON of research here so there are lots of resources available if you decide to do your own thing. I've also looked at adding rear SCV's and the 2 biggest fabrication issues are where/how to mount the valves and where/how to mount the connectors. The rest is pretty much just hose routing & assembly.

 

[LD1]

Do you have any other use for rear remotes?

You basically have 3 options as I see it..

1. Add a set of remotes.

to do this, you already have the supply and PB hose plumbed (the backhoe hoses). You would need to add a return hose tee'd into a return somewhere. Then your two remote couplers. A single set of remotes + valve hoses and fittins is probably gonna run you in the $500 ballpark to do this, and will require you finding a good spot to mount the valve.

The reason you dont have a return off the backhoe valve is because they are using that PB hose (that actually feeds the 3PH valve before it returns to tank). This is not an issue with a backhoe because with a backhoe on you cannot use the hitch. But hypothetically if you could, whatever pressure the 3PH takes to lift its load, is on the tank circuit of the BH valve and will cause it to leak, blow seals, and in a worst case fracture the casting. But no issue as is since with nothing on the 3PH with the BH on, you cannot generate pressure there.

2. Add a 3rd function valve.

this is basically the same as the remotes, tapping into the same lines, still adding a return (if using a manual valve), but putting the couplers up front and not at the back of the tractor. Basically option 1 = rear SCV, option 2 = front SCV You can also choose an electric solenoid 3rd function and a push buttons on your loader joystick. Push one button and it angles one way, push other button to angle other way. "usually" solenoid valves have pressure rated tank passages, so wouldnt need to tee a return line in.

Probably about the same $500 ballpark.

3. Install a diverter. Instead of tapping into PB lines and return lines and all......you tap a loader function. Either curl or lift circuit. Lets say you choose curl circuit.

Instead of your QC couplers coming out of the loader valve and going to your curl cylinders, you will run them from the loader valve into a diverter. The diverter takes those two hoses in, and has 4 outlets. Two go to the curl. (this would be default with diverter not energized). The other two go to the plow angle.

Then you have button on the joystick to energize the diverter.

End result....move joystick left and right and bucket curls and dumps like normal. Hold the button (conveniently mounted on the joystick) and move the joystick left and right and the plow angles left and right.

Diverter will probably cost a little less than than the others.

I installed a diverter on my loader for the grapple and snowplow. I also installed rear remotes for things in the back. Links are in my signature. Read up.