Fixing Aluminum Canoe

[check]

Was planning to use Weld Bond epoxy, because I thought it was just a seam problem. However it's a huge crack. Any ideas anyone?

 

[Baby Grand]

If you are confident with your soldering/brazing abilities, maybe try something like this?:
Hobart Aluminium Rod, Pack of 8 at Tractor Supply Co.
I haven't used the stuff, myself, but I do keep a set of rods in my welding "JIC" kit.
As with almost any weld/braze/solder operation, joint cleanliness & fit-up are going to be your friends.

It looks like a fiberglass repair might be another option to consider, considering the gaps that you will be looking at once you get the metal hammered out & fit up.

Maybe use the Weld Bond epoxy with some aluminum window screen lay-ups?

 

[CincyFlyer]

I'd weld a very large patch on it, perhaps on the inside if it could be done. Something with enough thickness to make welding easier, and also prevent what has happened here (looks worn through from "shore work") from happening again.

 

[3930dave]

Is that sideways compression of the hull enough to disrupt water flow/handling ? (Meaning, distinct from water ingress). Can't tell which end that is.... my point - does the hull need to be pushed back out ?

I like JB Weld, and I think (?) they have a marine version. Nothing against Weld Bond, just never used it.

Know anybody that can weld aluminum well enough to patch that ? (Definitely not within my skills).

A good aluminum compatible epoxy may do it, but coupling my belt-and-suspenders inclinations with a (normal) fear of water, I'd also try and track down a spray-in waterproof foam to line the inside of the hull. I don't work on boats, but I'd expect there should be a foam available that adds buoyancy - just guessing though...

Rgds, D.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think a combination of a pop riveted scab patch would work with a good epoxy bonding seal under the scab patch. It looks like there is a linear crack running along the mid-seam also so make sure your scab patch covers that area also.

I would fit the sheet metal patch, drill the pop rivet holes, then lay down a thick layer of slow drying epoxy , immediately fit the sheet metal and pop rivet in place. Allow to cure properly and it should hold for normal wear and tear. Hopefully you have room inside to work the pop rivet gun. This is going to be much easier with a helper to position the sheet metal and fit the rivets from the outside and then the second person to work the pop rivet gun.

 

[CincyFlyer]

The only issue I have with any sealer or epoxy is that if you ever decide to weld it, removing all of that stuff will take forever.

 

[LD1]

The ONLY way I would be confident in a repair would be a welded one.

Send a pic to a weld shop. I don't have aluminum welding equipment at home...but do alot of aluminum welding at work. That looks very doable. Would probably take 1-2 hours. And maybe put a thicker plate on over it and bend it into place. Something like 1/8" or 3/16 wear plate, especially if that's the front.

I would not consider any form of glue.

Glue for a temporary solution to get you through til winter (if you need canoe now) the fix over winter? But I'd fix it right the first time.

 

[check]

Great suggestions guys - thanks! I particularly like the idea of aluminum screen in layers. I will also see if the local marina will weld it.

BTW, this is not exactly what i would call a "performance" canoe - in fact we call it the "war canoe" because of all the dents and such. (We inherited it with a cottage we bought back in 2002.) However, it is quite large, and we let the rental property guests use it (who come in groups of up to 10), alone with a 14' rowboat and two kayaks.

Will keep y'all posted, and thanks again for the suggestions!

 

[LD1]

Not something I have ever looked into....but can you rent a welder to weld aluminum???

Perhaps would be fun to give it a try

 

[Gary Fowler]

The ONLY way I would be confident in a repair would be a welded one.

Send a pic to a weld shop. I don't have aluminum welding equipment at home...but do alot of aluminum welding at work. That looks very doable. Would probably take 1-2 hours. And maybe put a thicker plate on over it and bend it into place. Something like 1/8" or 3/16 wear plate, especially if that's the front.

I would not consider any form of glue.

Glue for a temporary solution to get you through til winter (if you need canoe now) the fix over winter? But I'd fix it right the first time.

I was responding to the cheapest and fastest personal fix. A welded repair would likely cost over $250 which might exceed the value of the canoe but you are right, if you plan to ever weld it, all the epoxy has to be removed. From the view of that crack though, a proper repair would mean cutting out all that old dented, cracked and worn metal and putting in new material which would have to be formed in place. A shop charging $80-100 per hour would quickly eat up in labor cost much more than a new plastic canoe would cost.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I think a combination of a pop riveted scab patch would work with a good epoxy bonding seal under the scab patch. It looks like there is a linear crack running along the mid-seam also so make sure your scab patch covers that area also.

I was thinking the same thing, for exactly the same reasons you state below.

I was responding to the cheapest and fastest personal fix. A welded repair would likely cost over $250 which might exceed the value of the canoe but you are right, if you plan to ever weld it, all the epoxy has to be removed. From the view of that crack though, a proper repair would mean cutting out all that old dented, cracked and worn metal and putting in new material which would have to be formed in place. A shop charging $80-100 per hour would quickly eat up in labor cost much more than a new plastic canoe would cost.

 

[MitchellB]

I was thinking the same thing, for exactly the same reasons you state below.

plate/scap patch would work fine, if looks are not a concern, but I would use aluminum Brazier Head Brad Rivets not pop rivets if you want it watertight.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Was planning to use Weld Bond epoxy, because I thought it was just a seam problem. However it's a huge crack. Any ideas anyone?


View attachment 518403

Pound it out to get close to the correct contours, cut out the crack , pop rivet a doubler patch (patch on both sides), overlapping the resulting hole by at least one inch around the cutout. Then seal the edges and pop rivet holes with silicon sealer. It will be rough on the inside but it will be stronger than the original.

The other possibility is to pound it out. stop drill the cracks and use Alumaweld (a 700°F braze you use a propane torch to put on). It's sandable when hardened and you can contour if you want.

I just repaired a hole in an aluminum truck tool box with Alumaweld and it worked great. I have patched cracked aluminum irrigation pipes with it also.

 

[ray66v]

You have to be careful about taking a hammer to aluminum.

If it's tempered, (my guess it is), its hardened. And, getting too aggressive, could be putting more cracks, and fractures in it.

You should find out what alloy it is, and follow the proper annealing procedure, if applicable, to work on it. Which can be difficult to do, especially if you don't know who made it.

You also should use caution pertaining the tools you use, if they have been used on steel.

As we all know, steel and aluminum don't mix well. The published procedure is to have dedicated tools, which have not been used on steel.

At least change the grinding, cutting wheels, and disc's on the tools to brand new ones. This will help to avoid driving steel particles into the aluminum.

Rather than having a dedicated hammer, and dolly, you can tape them up with several layers of making tape, to keep from contaminating the aluminum.

I personally would use the aforementioned Alumaweld, or a body panel adhesive, (epoxy).

 

[dragoneggs]

The only issue I have with any sealer or epoxy is that if you ever decide to weld it, removing all of that stuff will take forever.

Not really an issue. Using a heat gun will soften the epoxy and will scrape off fairly easily. Can't do that with a weld.

The ONLY way I would be confident in a repair would be a welded one.

Send a pic to a weld shop. I don't have aluminum welding equipment at home...but do alot of aluminum welding at work. That looks very doable. Would probably take 1-2 hours. And maybe put a thicker plate on over it and bend it into place. Something like 1/8" or 3/16 wear plate, especially if that's the front.

I would not consider any form of glue.

Glue for a temporary solution to get you through til winter (if you need canoe now) the fix over winter? But I'd fix it right the first time.

Not so fast... LD. Properly applied structural adhesives can be dang tough and last a lifetime. Here is a bootleg test a disbelieving welder performed when he was told a hammer wouldn't be able to knock off an adhesive bonded stud. The video is cut short so you don't hear him cuss in amazement at the end.

Click Bond - Studs Impact Hammer Test - YouTube

 

[comancheflight]

They make aluminum braising rods you can use with just a propane torch. I have several sticks. They demoed them on all sorts of aluminum down to pop cans to show how well they worked..so far I haven't had a need to use them. I also have the AL MIG welding spool gun and have never used it...yet

 

[dragoneggs]

They make aluminum braising rods you can use with just a propane torch. I have several sticks. They demoed them on all sorts of aluminum down to pop cans to show how well they worked..so far I haven't had a need to use them. I also have the AL MIG welding spool gun and have never used it...yet

Even though I just advocated for adhesive bonding... I too have a never used MIG spool gun for aluminum. I would give that a try if you had one. Otherwise hard to beat the cost/time of a bonded solution.

 

[tcreeley]

I like fiberglass. Patch inside and outside. Use woven fiberglass patch material. Bring some duct tape along canoeing. Great for emergency patches. I kayaked a lot. This was a standard to bring along.

 

[Creamer]

Not really an issue. Using a heat gun will soften the epoxy and will scrape off fairly easily. Can't do that with a weld.


Not so fast... LD. Properly applied structural adhesives can be dang tough and last a lifetime. Here is a bootleg test a disbelieving welder performed when he was told a hammer wouldn't be able to knock off an adhesive bonded stud. The video is cut short so you don't hear him cuss in amazement at the end.

Click Bond - Studs Impact Hammer Test - YouTube

Agreed! The skin of the wings of a Tomahawk cruise missile are glued to the structure - no rivets. They designed this over 40 years ago and it is still holding. Adhesives done right are amazing.

A scab patch with rivets as Gary mentioned would be the way to go on this one - not pretty but low cost and functional.

 

[Leejohn]

Cut the end off and make a square stern out of it.