Oil & Fuel CK4010 - Hydraulic Drain Plug - Stupid question(s)...

[neopheous]

Ok, I know this is a stupid question(s), but I am just not sure the manual is correct on this. It shows that the drain plug for the hydraulics is the one labeled with a number 1 in the pic below, but it looks to me like that is one of the bolts holding the rear end casing on, and not like a drain bolt.

However, the one labeled number 2 in the pic looks more like a main drain plug and is located where I would expect it to be... So, is the manual correct? If so, what is the other big plug for? I am doing the 50 hour service and I am just going to drain and replace all the fluid as well as the filters for the Hydraulics and HST. Which BTW, does the one plug drain it for both the Hydraulics and the HST transmission? I know they give separate fluid totals for each in the manual, but I didn't see any place in the manual for a separate drain plug or fill plug for the HST.

 

[xcgreene]

it would appear they both are drain plugs. I'm sure another CK owner will pop in and tell you. Looks like #1 is a little lower than #2, which would get the last bit out in that lower case area. You'll find similar in other tractors that will allow draining pockets by the rear axles. Your Hydraulic fluid and HST fluid is all the same, mixed in the transmission. Thats why you'll see "hydraulic transmission" fluid sold.

I agree its a good idea to change the fluid at 50hrs

What fluid do you plan to use for refil?

 

[neopheous]

May be the angle of the pic, but I believe #2 is actually lower on the rear end. I started to break loose the one labeled as #1 since that is where the manual showed it, but I am going to need a breaker bar to do so, it is tight, tight TIGHT! Couldn't budge it with a standard 1/2 in socket wrench.

I purchased the Traveler Premium from Rural King as it is readily available, and I have seen where others have used it as well with good results. I initially purchased some from the local dealer but after I got it home it and looked it up it seemed to be a very low grade oil so I took it back and bought the Traveler Premium.

 

[xcgreene]

May be the angle of the pic, but I believe #2 is actually lower on the rear end. I started to break loose the one labeled as #1 since that is where the manual showed it, but I am going to need a breaker bar to do so, it is tight, tight TIGHT! Couldn't budge it with a standard 1/2 in socket wrench.

I purchased the Traveler Premium from Rural King as it is readily available, and I have seen where others have used it as well with good results. I initially purchased some from the local dealer but after I got it home it and looked it up it seemed to be a very low grade oil so I took it back and bought the Traveler Premium.

I use the same fluid. Tractor has run very well with it over the past 300 hours.

I would have no issues unscrewing both of those hex heads to see whats up. I know my factory manual was a little off on a few minor things, so this wouldn't surprise either way.

good tractor so far, the CK?

 

[neopheous]

I use the same fluid. Tractor has run very well with it over the past 300 hours.

I would have no issues unscrewing both of those hex heads to see whats up. I know my factory manual was a little off on a few minor things, so this wouldn't surprise either way.

good tractor so far, the CK?

Good to know....

Yes, it has been great thus far... Only have 57 hrs on it but have done a ton of work with the grapple, box blade, tiller, land rake, bush hog, etc.

I do wish it was a little more stable on banks as I have almost rolled it twice... Perhaps I am a little too aggressive, but it is pretty scary when you're at the point of jumping off when you just know it is going to roll when both wheels on one side are off the ground. I had that happen as I was trying to rake on the side of a pond dam I just had built.... Pretty much put the fear in me on that one, I had already stood up and was going to jump when it settled the front tire back to the ground... not fun. Part of it was probably b/c I had a rake and no weight on the rear other than the loaded tires, plus the fact it was probably a 30-35 degree slope or more.

 

[xcgreene]

Your rear rims may be designed for flipping around to allow for a wider tractor stance, should your work call for more stability. But you are right, 30-35 degrees is a bit steep for traveling along sideways. Even at a much less degree, a slope can sneak up on us quickly. The mowing of an unfamiliar field can be very dangerous in this way. Drop offs and inclines can be hidden well under the grass, where a moderate 15 degree slope can fall out from underneath you without warning.

I'm very trigger shy these days with new fields for this reason, as we all should be.

Be careful and good luck out there.:drink:

 

[neopheous]

Your rear rims may be designed for flipping around to allow for a wider tractor stance, should your work call for more stability. But you are right, 30-35 degrees is a bit steep for traveling along sideways. Even at a much less degree, a slope can sneak up on us quickly. The mowing of an unfamiliar field can be very dangerous in this way. Drop offs and inclines can be hidden well under the grass, where a moderate 15 degree slope can fall out from underneath you without warning.

I'm very trigger shy these days with new fields for this reason, as we all should be.

Be careful and good luck out there.:drink:

Yes, that would be nice but I do not believe they are.

Agreed!

 

[dadster4]

ALL the drain plugs and fill points are colored orange (Kioti orange) to make them easier to find. The drain plugs up front have one on each side for the front axle, and the main drain is bigger with a magnet in it. I used a plastic 55 gal barrel cut down to about 8" for a drain pan. I bought a filter wrench that looks like a large pair of channel lock pliers...no problem getting the hydro filter off...don't go cheap on the wrench, it has to be sturdy.
The rears can be set at three different widths, 55" is the min., not sure on max. I know what you mean about tippy, more weight on the back end helps. I put 55 gal. of water on the boxblade and wrap with chain, helps a lot, especially with the forks in use!

 

[neopheous]

ALL the drain plugs and fill points are colored orange (Kioti orange) to make them easier to find. The drain plugs up front have one on each side for the front axle, and the main drain is bigger with a magnet in it. I used a plastic 55 gal barrel cut down to about 8" for a drain pan. I bought a filter wrench that looks like a large pair of channel lock pliers...no problem getting the hydro filter off...don't go cheap on the wrench, it has to be sturdy.
The rears can be set at three different widths, 55" is the min., not sure on max. I know what you mean about tippy, more weight on the back end helps. I put 55 gal. of water on the boxblade and wrap with chain, helps a lot, especially with the forks in use!

Hey dadster4, that is some great info on the hydro oil change, thank you!

When you say setting the rears at different widths, do you need to purchase spacers, or how would it be accomplished?

 

[dadster4]

Hey dadster4, that is some great info on the hydro oil change, thank you!

When you say setting the rears at different widths, do you need to purchase spacers, or how would it be accomplished?

With the centerline of the wheel being off center, switching sides will move the tire position more outward than the standard position, in my case 55" with AG tires.