countrybumpkin
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2005
- Messages
- 3,237
- Tractor
- Kioti, kubota
If you don't want to drill out the taper, find a heir joint to tie rod adapter with the correct taper.
Kubota Steering Drag Link Ball Joint Taper?
- Thread starter npalen
- Start date
- Views: 14407
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npalen
Elite Member
That's easier said than done as most listings for tie rod adapters don't list the taper. I did order a pair of these to see if I can get lucky on the taper.
Amazon.com: ACDelco 46A
7A Advantage Outer Steering Tie Rod End: Automotivepmsmechanic
Elite Member
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- Dec 6, 2013
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- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
So here's what I did with the steering cylinder on a 955 John Deere that I owned. The cylinder is all one piece. The ends are welded on and the cylinder is welded together. The ball joint on the end of the rod was quite loose. I took the cylinder off of the tractor and went to the local NAPA store. We went through several automotive tie rod ends until we found one where the taper matched and was similar sized to the loose ball joint. I took everything back home and extended the cylinder. I measured the center to center distance and trimed off what I didn't need and welded the end onto the cylinder. A bit of paint and I had saved myself several hundred dollars.
I believe there are only about two different tapers in general use. You can buy tapered reamers to match what you are working with. I shouldn't be too hard to come up with something that works.
I believe there are only about two different tapers in general use. You can buy tapered reamers to match what you are working with. I shouldn't be too hard to come up with something that works.
OP
npalen
Elite Member
Amazon.com: ACDelco 46A
7A Advantage Outer Steering Tie Rod End: AutomotiveGot lucky on the first try for a perfect fit. The bad ball joint was no grease dry and was worn badly after thirty years. The ball joint on the other end of the tie rod with grease in it is still very tight.
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npalen
Elite Member
Probably talking to myself here but oh well.
Finally got to take the B9200 out for a test drive today after replacing the steering drag link ball joint.
Pleasantly surprised in that all the steering wander on the road is gone! No more constantly steering for course correction as it now runs straight down the road. Always great when a plan comes together.
Finally got to take the B9200 out for a test drive today after replacing the steering drag link ball joint.
Pleasantly surprised in that all the steering wander on the road is gone! No more constantly steering for course correction as it now runs straight down the road. Always great when a plan comes together.
OP
npalen
Elite Member
I can honestly say that I've had zero warranty issues since first acquiring this tractor.
I was surprised to find a plastic (of some sort) insert/bushing between the steel ball and housing. The plastic is shaped such that it tends to compress against the ball when assembled.
It almost seems that the assembly could have been re-tightened in a press by blocking under the housing with a large socket where the threaded end exits and then pressing the opposite end of the assembly in the center area to take out any slack. Would certainly be worth a try before cutting off and replacing the whole end of the tierod.
Glad to hear that I've not been talking to myself completely.
Edit: I removed the top cap/cover by chucking in the lathe and facing it off. Would have been easier to just cut it loose with a 1" holesaw which was not on hand at the moment since it was at the local hardware store.
I was surprised to find a plastic (of some sort) insert/bushing between the steel ball and housing. The plastic is shaped such that it tends to compress against the ball when assembled.
It almost seems that the assembly could have been re-tightened in a press by blocking under the housing with a large socket where the threaded end exits and then pressing the opposite end of the assembly in the center area to take out any slack. Would certainly be worth a try before cutting off and replacing the whole end of the tierod.
Glad to hear that I've not been talking to myself completely.
Edit: I removed the top cap/cover by chucking in the lathe and facing it off. Would have been easier to just cut it loose with a 1" holesaw which was not on hand at the moment since it was at the local hardware store.
