Metal cutting of clean painted square tube

[Rustyiron]

......square tube with a (supposedly) super-durable finish. So I want to make nice, clean, square, precise cuts with minimal heating of the metal to minimize damaging the finish.


What's the best nice, clean, square, precise, cool option?

I would guess the finish is "powder coated" and it is susceptible to heat damage. Heat will dis color anything. The cutting heat will only travel a short distance from each side of the cut, imho up to an inch (more like 1/2") and if you have enough excess to cut off you could experiment with different methods. Like other's have said - no abrasive wheels. My first pic of tools in my shop would be my hand held bandsaw. They create very little heat. My next pic would be a carbide blade (metal cutting).

 

[newbury]

Ok, you have a "bunch", is that numbers like a "bunch" of carrots? (6 to 10) or a "bunch" of grapes (80+)?

If it's like carrots and you don't want to buy a bandsaw now I'd go with the hacksaw, GOOD blades and lube. If it's like a bunch of grapes I'd suggest the compound miter saw with the best blade you can buy, maybe a Lenox Tools 1972927 METALMAX Diamond Edge Cutoff Wheel. But that's pricey by itself.

 

[Egon]

Saving the finish and cost wise the reciprocating saw will work. A metal cutting blade in an ordinary band saw will work.
After the cut use some rustoleum to cover the cut ends.

Be aware that some wood working saw's may not have enough power for cutting metal. The circular metal cutting blades can be smaller than the original saw blade.

 

[LD48750]

Get the HF blade & try it on some scrap.
If it doesn't work, take it back Harbor Freight has a good return policy.


Rated for 8000 rpm's

 

[Gem99ultra]

Metal cutting band saw.

Bruce

X-2 Metal cutting band saws are made for nice, clean, square, precise cutting.

Sliding compound miter saws that I know of, except for something like an Evolution, are way too fast. What you DON'T want is a fiber wheel exploding in your face!
Hack saw tend to wander, leaving cuts that are not square.
Angel grinder is going to produce a lot of heat - leaving marred cuts.
Metal cutting blades for circular saws are not going to be precisely square.

I have a cheap metal cutting band saw that I bought from Builders Square and it is a super cheap thing, no doubt foreign made. But a little grease every now and then, and that thing is still running like new. And that's after 30 years of use, i.e. thousands of cuts. Buy one for your current project, and you'll find it most useful for many years to come.

Use plenty of cutting fluid (I use WD40), the proper blade, and precise placement of your rail, and you'll have a professional looking finish. And a left-over metal cutting band saw to boot.

 

[tow653]

We too have Fortress railings. Just use a regular blade in your mitre saw. Might want to use an old one,what I did,or buy cheap one.

 

[flusher]

I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference how you cut that iron tubing. You still have to paint or otherwise apply a coating to the exposed iron to prevent rust and corrosion. If you mess up the original paint, just touch it up.

Good luck

 

[kennyd]

We too have Fortress railings. Just use a regular blade in your mitre saw. Might want to use an old one,what I did,or buy cheap one.

^^^
THIS.

The tubing is made of aluminum, you can cut it with any decent carbide tipped blade in a regular miter saw. Cut slow, wear hearing protection, and watch where the chip go as they will be hot.

This is common practice, no special tools required.

 

[JRobyn]

Ok, you have a "bunch", is that numbers like a "bunch" of carrots? (6 to 10) or a "bunch" of grapes (80+)?

If it's like carrots and you don't want to buy a bandsaw now I'd go with the hacksaw, GOOD blades and lube. If it's like a bunch of grapes I'd suggest the compound miter saw with the best blade you can buy, maybe a Lenox Tools 1972927 METALMAX Diamond Edge Cutoff Wheel. But that's pricey by itself.

I have about 16 sections, each of which will (likely) need 4 cuts. So roughly 65 total.

That diamond wheel *is* a bit pricey, but justifiable given that the railing materials cost about $2k. Wouldn't the abrasive-like cut of the diamonds generate heat similar to an abrasive wheel? If not, there's this way less expensive option for the same thing in an angle grinder - Amazon.com: Lenox Tools 1972921 METALMAX Diamond Edge Cutoff Wheel, 4.5" x 7/8": Home Improvement

 

[JRobyn]

^^^
THIS.

The tubing is made of aluminum, you can cut it with any decent carbide tipped blade in a regular miter saw. Cut slow, wear hearing protection, and watch where the chip go as they will be hot.

This is common practice, no special tools required.

These are absolutely NOT aluminum like some Fortress railings. They are steel (hence the FE26 moniker).

And I absolutely intend to re-coat the cut ends. Maybe foolishly, but I coughed up $$ for the Fortress-labeled touch-up paint to insure compatibility.