Air in and exhaust are 3-1/2" O.D. right out of the unit.
Going to replace hot water tank. Need some advice
- Thread starter lzicc
- Start date
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Air in and exhaust are 3-1/2" O.D. right out of the unit.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
Thank zzvyb6. I got the 3" vents run out the wall, so that part is done. I could have got away with 2" since my run is less that 5' will only 1 elbow, but I don't want to have a venting issue. Nothing glued in yet. I purchased the Rheem water heater and it's in my garage. I got all the piping that I think I need, and have a sheet of 3/4" that I am going to mount on the concrete wall that I can attach the water heater to, so I am ready to go.
I'm just waiting for the service valve kit to get in. I ordered it on Amazon since local stores carried it. It should be in tomorrow. I may do the install tomorrow. Since I have everything prepped and ready, it should install fairly easy. The biggest challenge will be to remove the old 80 gallon water tank. There is not allot of room in my utility room. It will be a tight squeeze.
I'm just waiting for the service valve kit to get in. I ordered it on Amazon since local stores carried it. It should be in tomorrow. I may do the install tomorrow. Since I have everything prepped and ready, it should install fairly easy. The biggest challenge will be to remove the old 80 gallon water tank. There is not allot of room in my utility room. It will be a tight squeeze.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
I got it installed. Went pretty well. I just need to attach the condensation hose. I purchased a 1/2" hose which was recomended, but it is too small. 3/4" is too big. ???
Mine is just PVC acting as a funnel: no hard connection. Condensate is strong acid, I would think a hose won't last very long. Run it straight to a floor drain. Clamped to the wall.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
RNeumann
Elite Member
Read your instructions- most want something to neutralize the condensate. They claim the ph is so off it will eat the pipe and or glue. One of these will probably last a lifetime on a water heater.
BANGARANG Condensate Neutralizer 220,000 btu 15''x2.5'' fittings 3/4'' BANGARANG Condensate Neutralizer 22, btu 15''x2.5'' fittings 3/4'': Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Btw- they can typically be screwed directly into the bottom of the heater.
BANGARANG Condensate Neutralizer 220,000 btu 15''x2.5'' fittings 3/4'' BANGARANG Condensate Neutralizer 22, btu 15''x2.5'' fittings 3/4'': Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Btw- they can typically be screwed directly into the bottom of the heater.
Redlands Okie
Veteran Member
I was told by local inspector that next national code change would require condensate to drain to a exterior drain pit. No longer will they allow drain into city sewer. Apparently the condensate also is extremely hard on septic tank enzymes. As bad or worse than bleach.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
Mine goes to a floor drain. I'm not sure if that goes to the septic tank or the street, but that is good to know. I haven't had anything come out of the condensation drain yet.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
This is good to know. I didn't have a drain line connected to my twh the first day and did not see any water on the floor from it. I would think I would have got something out of the drain.
ADSNY
New member
Some manufacturers specify that the first 10' of water pipe to and from the water heater must be at least 3/4". FWIW