Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford

   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #1  

gb6049

New member
Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
23
Location
Bethpage, TN
Tractor
1967 Ford 2000
Recently moved to Northern Middle Tennessee after 6 years in Germany. Born, raised and lived my life in Florida before moving to work in Germany for the Corps of Engineers. Bought a 8.97 acre place that needs a few acres to be mowed.

Been lurking here and there to figure out what I wanted to buy to take care of the place. Bought my tractor back in May; 1967 Ford 2000 diesel with 4140 on the clock. Close to the 3000 and 3600 model I drove as kid in the tobacco fields of North Florida.

Previous owner had recently installed a generator and battery and looks like a fairly recent air filter assembly. I had to charge the field to get the charge light to go out. Since then I have changed the oil, added an oil filter adapter, new transmission and rear end fluid.

I have also added 5' grader blade to keep up the gravel drive, a used 6' Caroni finish mower, and a old rotary cutter.

Will soon need to get new rear rims as the calcium chloride has rusted out the rims by the valve stems. Also will be doing maintenance of a new ignition switch, lights, seat, fuel filter and fuel line, radiator hoses,

The site has great for maintenance tips.
 

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   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #2  
Welcome GOGWOF :) I mean gb6049! You'll be in good company here.
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #3  
Recently moved to Northern Middle Tennessee after 6 years in Germany. Born, raised and lived my life in Florida before moving to work in Germany for the Corps of Engineers. Bought a 8.97 acre place that needs a few acres to be mowed.

Been lurking here and there to figure out what I wanted to buy to take care of the place. Bought my tractor back in May; 1967 Ford 2000 diesel with 4140 on the clock. Close to the 3000 and 3600 model I drove as kid in the tobacco fields of North Florida.

Previous owner had recently installed a generator and battery and looks like a fairly recent air filter assembly. I had to charge the field to get the charge light to go out. Since then I have changed the oil, added an oil filter adapter, new transmission and rear end fluid.

I have also added 5' grader blade to keep up the gravel drive, a used 6' Caroni finish mower, and a old rotary cutter.

Will soon need to get new rear rims as the calcium chloride has rusted out the rims by the valve stems. Also will be doing maintenance of a new ignition switch, lights, seat, fuel filter and fuel line, radiator hoses,

The site has great for maintenance tips.

I have a 4x4 Ford 1920 FEL (32 HP) with wheel spacing set at the minimum possible - 58".
I use an 84" rear blade (KK), which also has left/right 15" offset capability.
With your 60" blade you will just barely cover your tracks when going straight.
If you angle the blade, to pull material in from the far edges, your wheels will be outside the blade end, and on your grass.
I have a long driveway, and find that I need to angle the 84" blade, (and sometimes offset as well) to pull some far edge material back onto the traveled surface, every few months.
Because I have serious ditches on each side, I cannot allow my wheels to run outside the rear blade, or ......tipping over I shall go!
 
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   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #4  
Welcome to the forum and back to the country!

Great pics :thumbsup:
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #5  
Welcome. Nice Ford.
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #6  
G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Enjoy the site.
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #7  
Welcome....nice tractor, the place ain't too shabby either
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford #8  
Very nice. The place and the tractor. On a side note depending how bad those rims are rusted you can just weld a patch over the valve stem hole or if your picky about looks cut out the rusted portion and weld in a new piece of steel then grind smooth and drill a new hole for the valve stem.
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Very nice. The place and the tractor. On a side note depending how bad those rims are rusted you can just weld a patch over the valve stem hole or if your picky about looks cut out the rusted portion and weld in a new piece of steel then grind smooth and drill a new hole for the valve stem.
Read about this but not sure new rims wouldn't be cheaper and safer in the long run.
 
   / Grumpy Old Guy with Old Ford
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I have a 4x4 Ford 1920 FEL (32 HP) with wheel spacing set at the minimum possible - 58".
I use an 84" rear blade (KK), which also has left/right 15" offset capability.
With your 60" blade you will just barely cover your tracks when going straight.
If you angle the blade, to pull material in from the far edges, your wheels will be outside the blade end, and on your grass.
I have a long driveway, and find that I need to angle the 84" blade, (and sometimes offset as well) to pull some far edge material back onto the traveled surface, every few months.
Because I have serious ditches on each side, I cannot allow my wheels to run outside the rear blade, or ......tipping over I shall go!
That's okay, just means it takes longer, more therapy time. Kind of like getting lost while riding my motorcycle.
 

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