Jinma 254 wont start fully.

robmc5 · Dec 4, 2017

I have a Farm Pro 2425, which is a Jinma 254 with a Y385T engine.

This forum has been a great help for me in the past, thanks to you guys I have rebuild my hydraulics and have a decent understanding of how they work on my tractor.

But now I have a new problem, it will not start. Please excuse my terminology, this is the only tractor I have ever dealt with.

Battery is good, it turns over fine but will not start. There is no air in the lines, I checked the air bleed and fuel pours out. I can release the compression and turn it over then try to crank it with the compression engaged and it will start but only run for a few seconds. It's like its not getting enough fuel to start and stay running. I get a little white smoke at first but it turns grey. It sounds normal throughout the starting process it will just not start. Air filter is clean.

I have searched the forums and found a couple of posts but nothing I could figure out. I have a pic of the injector block, I am just not sure where to start to see if there is a blockage somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

coolreinfarm · Dec 4, 2017

Is this something that happened all at once or has been getting hard to start ? I would start with the simple things first, is the fuel shut off cable stuck causing the arm on the pump not to retract. I don’t believe it’s injector related. I read somewhere that there’s a screen in a banjo fitting on or near the inj pump. I would make sure you have good fuel flow all the way to the inj pump.

angelugs · Dec 4, 2017

I went through what sounds like the same thing a few weeks ago. Without retyping info that's already on this site, I suggest you check out the post "Jinma 284 fuel system questions" near the top of the list of posts. I believe you have the same engine (Y385T) I have. If I were you I'd take this opportunity to learn a little more about the fuel system of your tractor and how to maintain it. Of course if your equipment is "down" and you need it running NOW, your not looking for an education you just want it running. The cure for my problem was freeing up the "rack" in the injector pump. But before that I found the filter screens in the fuel tank, sediment bowl dome and on the input side (banjo fitting) of the manual hand pump either plugged or completely destroyed. Keep posting until you get your problem solved.

Good luck!!

robmc5 · Dec 5, 2017

Thanks for the replies, I admit I know very little about the fuel system on this tractor, but I am learning. I plan on trying to find all the filter screens this evening and make sure they are clean. I think its getting fuel to the pump fine since I see fuel squirting out when I remove the bolt that has the ring in it. This is what I remove when I bleed the air out of the lines. I am not sure what the banjo fitting is, is that the fitting on the end of the fuel lines? The rack for the injector pump may be stuck, I did not check it, is it the flat lever with a cable attached?

Thanks again for the responses, I honestly don't know what I would do with out this forum. Thanks to you guys I can replace the ring in the hydraulics in about 30 minutes (had to do it three times in three years).

quicksandfarmer · Dec 5, 2017

robmc5 said:
Thanks for the replies, I admit I know very little about the fuel system on this tractor, but I am learning. I plan on trying to find all the filter screens this evening and make sure they are clean. I think its getting fuel to the pump fine since I see fuel squirting out when I remove the bolt that has the ring in it. This is what I remove when I bleed the air out of the lines. I am not sure what the banjo fitting is, is that the fitting on the end of the fuel lines? The rack for the injector pump may be stuck, I did not check it, is it the flat lever with a cable attached?

Thanks again for the responses, I honestly don't know what I would do with out this forum. Thanks to you guys I can replace the ring in the hydraulics in about 30 minutes (had to do it three times in three years).

Banjo fitting is the ring on the end of the fuel line that is held in place by a bolt.

angelugs · Dec 5, 2017

Look at the picture you posted of your engine. The banjo fitting with the filter IN it is on the end of the hose that runs from the sediment bowl assembly to the manual primer pump mounted on the side of your injector pump. The filter is inserted in the end of the fitting. I cleaned mine by letting it soak a day in a small jar of Power Service Tank Cleaner. There's other solutions out there but I can attest to the Power Service brand doing a good job. The "rack" I spoke of is located behind the inspection plate mounted on the side of the injector pump right behind the manual primer assembly. It's attached via two machine screws. Remove the two sides of the primer pump (do NOT remove the entire assembly) so you can access the screws. You can't tell if it's (the rack) moving freely just by moving the shut off lever. You have to get inside and SEE it operating. It MUST slide freely left to right and be sure it travels completely to the left side of the housing.

Bob Rooks · Dec 5, 2017

angelugs said:
The "rack" I spoke of is located behind the inspection plate mounted on the side of the injector pump right behind the manual primer assembly. It's attached via two machine screws. Remove the two sides of the primer pump (do NOT remove the entire assembly) so you can access the screws. You can't tell if it's (the rack) moving freely just by moving the shut off lever. You have to get inside and SEE it operating. It MUST slide freely left to right and be sure it travels completely to the left side of the housing.

This is true. There is no mechanical connection between the throttle arm and the rack. The rack is moved by the flyweights in the governor, and the throttle arm controls the movements of the flyweights. The governor is that separate assembly attached to the rear of the fuel injection pump, although they do share a common oil sump.

robmc5 · Dec 31, 2017

Just an update, I finally got around to working on the tractor and angelugs you were spot on, the rack was stuck and after freeing it the tractor started and is running great again!!! I also have been learning more about the fuel system, your right about me needing to do that!!

Thanks to angelugs, coolreinfarm, quicksandfarmer and Bob Rooks for the help