General bush hog questions

   / General bush hog questions #11  
You should not mow over the saplings with sharp blades on your bush hog. That will result in sharp staubs that will puncture tires. As mentioned by John_Mc in his comments, the blades should be slightly rounded. The sound of a staub puncturing a tire can be sickening. Ask me how I know.
 
   / General bush hog questions #12  
Keep in mind that what you see now and what you expect to see in the future are likely going to be different perspectives. I'm currently faced with having both a lot of brush to clear AND having a lot of grass to cut/maintain. I've found bush hogs to do an amazingly good job at cutting grass to a near-lawn cut. Interestingly, while sharp blades DO tend to make nicer cuts, dull ones (NOT bent!) will amaze you as to how well they actually cut. The phrase "speed kills" is quite apt here in that the speed at which the blade tips travel is insane (14k to 16k feet per minute).

I've run a five-foot bush hog on my B7800 for over 7 years (hundreds of hours with a rotary cutter, perhaps 500 or so). The B7800 is a 30hp tractor (about 23hp at the PTO). In heavier stuff you just have to slow down (doesn't matter if you're running a small or large tractor): early on I was cutting grass that, some of which, was upwards of 9' tall! The diameter of material that one can cut is mostly based on a constant cutting. Hardly does one look to chew through LOTS of large diameter material. It really comes down to speed. One could cut larger diameter material given enough time. Of course, in order to cut something you have to be able to roll OVER it first! This is likely the more limiting factor: if you try to push the speed you'll likely start to push the implement and tractor to the point of breaking something. One does NOT want sharp blades when cutting brush, for not only the reason noted by japody (above), but because shattering stalks/stems is more effective in that it does more damage/stressing to that which you are trying to eradicate.

As I started saying, I've got a lot of brush AND a lot of grass. I'm kind of straddling the fence with implement needs. I'm on the verge of getting a flail mower, for, at least, the B7800 (so the wife can do some mowing- much easier and safer to mow with). A flail mower can produce a very nice cut; and, it doesn't, and this is probably the biggest factor, leave clumps of cut up material (as will a rotary cutter- even a regular lawn mower will produce some windrowing). Fails can also handle brush, though usually lighter stuff. They're nearly 3x the cost of a rotary AND they require more maintenance. But, it's all in what tool works best. My NX with 6' rotary cutter will, for now, be the main brush clearing setup.
 
   / General bush hog questions #13  
My procedure for PTO hook-up;connect lower arms and top link;raise implement;SHUT TRACTOR OFF;
by raising you can rotate PTO shaft if needed;lubricate if necessary.
I would never allow anyone with-in sight when bush-hogging.
Engage at idle.A bush-hog will never be a finish mower.

Another trick when you're about to give up is to take a bungee cord and hang the shaft from the top link so that it's a "straight on" connection. Not having to hold the weight of it makes it easier to twist, turn, pull, slide, push, pop, spin, etc...as required.
 
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   / General bush hog questions #14  
Regarding PTO shaft hook-up, Bare PTO shaft guards are great in this regard. I had to buy a new PTO shaft for my bush hog and I got one of their shafts w/this guard. Also makes it a lot easier to grease.
 
   / General bush hog questions #15  
I leave about a 8-12 inch gap, hook up the PTO, then back up to the 3pt hitch. Test how far out your shaft will come before separation, then leave less gap.

Bruce
 
   / General bush hog questions #16  
I've only had "difficult connects" a couple of times. After you have pulled, shoved, grunted & pushed - sometimes a good scream helps.

NO - without exception, those times when it seems like it will never "connect" - its because of improper alignment between the shaft and the PTO stub. And it does not take very much "miss alignment" to cause a failed connection. And the fact that your arms are about to drop off trying to hold up a heavy PTO shaft doesn't help either.

I ALWAYS connect the pto shaft to the tractor stub first - I have the most energy and its the most confined connection. The "shaft to implement" connect is the easier of the two because its out in the open.
 
   / General bush hog questions #17  
Regarding PTO shaft hook-up, Bare PTO shaft guards are great in this regard. I had to buy a new PTO shaft for my bush hog and I got one of their shafts w/this guard. Also makes it a lot easier to grease.

DB, sInce BARE-Co is in Australia, do they have US Dealers?
 
   / General bush hog questions #18  
I loop a bungie cord around the top link and the PTO shaft. With the right length cord it takes the weight of the shaft so all you have to do is line it up. I got that trick from someone here.
 
   / General bush hog questions #19  
You got some great answers but I will add to your one question. If your brush hog does not have chain guards (chains that hang down along the back of it to prevent stuff from being thrown out) they are worth it if around structures or people. I have had a 10+ pound chunk of wood go out the rear of ours and make it a solid 50 yards. I was flat out amazed at how far it threw it. Also been hit in the back of the head once but something - not even sure how it got me but it did. Be careful, they are an awesome tool but sometime they try to bite ya!
 
   / General bush hog questions #20  
I have the country line 5 foot bush hog. I have cut saplings well over 1 diameter. If I can push it over with the bucket I値l hit it with the bush hog.

I find spraying the pto splines w some kind of lubricant or wd40 makes life easier.

Also note on that hog there are 4 spots to grease. Grease them every time you use it. Unfortunately the one at the front of the pto shaft is impossible to grease when the shaft is hooked to the tractor.

I have probably mowed for 30 hrs with this hog. Everything from pasture to waist high weeds. 25 hp machine. No issues.
 

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