General bush hog questions

[RSKY]

For safety and efficient cutting you must set your top link correctly. The front should ALWAYS be lower than the back. I have seen people mowing in fields with the back end of the mower lower than the front and I just shake my head. The blades have to cut the grass/brush in the front and again in the back. Takes a lot more power and fuel.

The more level the mower is the better looking the cut will be. On a grass field I try to get the mower as level as possible then crank the top link up one more turn. That leaves a better cut in grass. In brush I shorten the top link so everything gets thrown out the back.

I had to mow two or three acres of CRP land this fall that for some reason had been missed the past two years. In those years I did not mow it, a brother-in-law did and I guess he skipped that little field. Anyway there were many saplings an inch or so thick and a few three or four inches across at the bottom. So I had to knock them over and chop them up. I was on the old Ford 4600 with a 6' hog. I made the first pass around the edge then shortened the top link about as much as possible so anything thrown out would go out the back and not the front where I was sitting. I would make the first pass with the front a foot or so off the ground and the tractor in low-1st gear. After a section was cleared I would go back over the thick stuff with the lift all the way down and the front of the mower skidding on the ground. I did this to knock stumps out of the ground. Chunks were thrown fifty to a hundred feet all the time. My son-in-law was on the little tractor and I made sure he was out of sight on the other side of the field and didn't get anywhere near me. One of those chunks would have seriously hurt or even killed a man if it had hit him.

That was with a 41 year old tractor and a Ford mower older than it. There had been some argument about how old it actually is but at least forty years. All I broke this year was one of the top braces.

As for hooking up the PTO I always kill the engine. A co-worker at my last job lost three fingers, had them ripped completely off, hooking up a bush-hog PTO. He could not explain what happened but we accused him of trying to hook it up with it engaged. All he could say for sure is that the engine was running and no alcohol was involved.

I always wear my seat belt while on my little Kioti. I have been thrown off that tractor twice while mowing. Another reason I like a HST, when your foot comes off it stops. First time I had just stopped for a 'rest break' in the woods and hopped on and started down a road ditch. The mower hit both sides of the ditch at the same time and the tractor stopped but I kept going. Went off the right side and landed on my feet running. Second time is one I haven't mentioned to anybody not on this forum. About the same thing happened though I am not completely sure. In the middle of a field and hit a ditch and the tractor front end dropped and stopped and I went over the steering wheel. Don't remember much after that except getting my senses back with the little beast running wide open beside me.

Brother-in-law was mowing with a 1066 and 15' batwing this fall. He dropped the right front wheel in a washed out ground hog hole and tore the wheel off. The hole was about 3'-4' deep and a little wider than that. Had to get a wrecker in the field to pull him out. He used his service truck to raise it up and fix it. I didn't see any of that but I sure heard about it because I was the one supposed to be mowing this year. He was sore for a while because he hit the steering wheel hard when the tractor came to a sudden stop.

So I wear my seat belt religiously while doing any kind of work that gets over a crawl.

RSKY

 

[bcp]

So I wear my seat belt religiously while doing any kind of work that gets over a crawl.

RSKY

Please post a photo.



Bruce

 

[lostcreekranch]

For safety and efficient cutting you must set your top link correctly. The front should ALWAYS be lower than the back. I have seen people mowing in fields with the back end of the mower lower than the front and I just shake my head. The blades have to cut the grass/brush in the front and again in the back. Takes a lot more power and fuel.

The more level the mower is the better looking the cut will be. On a grass field I try to get the mower as level as possible then crank the top link up one more turn. That leaves a better cut in grass. In brush I shorten the top link so everything gets thrown out the back.

I had to mow two or three acres of CRP land this fall that for some reason had been missed the past two years. In those years I did not mow it, a brother-in-law did and I guess he skipped that little field. Anyway there were many saplings an inch or so thick and a few three or four inches across at the bottom. So I had to knock them over and chop them up. I was on the old Ford 4600 with a 6' hog. I made the first pass around the edge then shortened the top link about as much as possible so anything thrown out would go out the back and not the front where I was sitting. I would make the first pass with the front a foot or so off the ground and the tractor in low-1st gear. After a section was cleared I would go back over the thick stuff with the lift all the way down and the front of the mower skidding on the ground. I did this to knock stumps out of the ground. Chunks were thrown fifty to a hundred feet all the time. My son-in-law was on the little tractor and I made sure he was out of sight on the other side of the field and didn't get anywhere near me. One of those chunks would have seriously hurt or even killed a man if it had hit him.

That was with a 41 year old tractor and a Ford mower older than it. There had been some argument about how old it actually is but at least forty years. All I broke this year was one of the top braces.

As for hooking up the PTO I always kill the engine. A co-worker at my last job lost three fingers, had them ripped completely off, hooking up a bush-hog PTO. He could not explain what happened but we accused him of trying to hook it up with it engaged. All he could say for sure is that the engine was running and no alcohol was involved.

I always wear my seat belt while on my little Kioti. I have been thrown off that tractor twice while mowing. Another reason I like a HST, when your foot comes off it stops. First time I had just stopped for a 'rest break' in the woods and hopped on and started down a road ditch. The mower hit both sides of the ditch at the same time and the tractor stopped but I kept going. Went off the right side and landed on my feet running. Second time is one I haven't mentioned to anybody not on this forum. About the same thing happened though I am not completely sure. In the middle of a field and hit a ditch and the tractor front end dropped and stopped and I went over the steering wheel. Don't remember much after that except getting my senses back with the little beast running wide open beside me.

Brother-in-law was mowing with a 1066 and 15' batwing this fall. He dropped the right front wheel in a washed out ground hog hole and tore the wheel off. The hole was about 3'-4' deep and a little wider than that. Had to get a wrecker in the field to pull him out. He used his service truck to raise it up and fix it. I didn't see any of that but I sure heard about it because I was the one supposed to be mowing this year. He was sore for a while because he hit the steering wheel hard when the tractor came to a sudden stop.

So I wear my seat belt religiously while doing any kind of work that gets over a crawl.

RSKY

RSKY;

IMHO, you set cutter rear height with rear wheel(s).

You set front height with 3 point lower arms.

The top link needs to be able to float to let rear of the cutter to follow terrain. Most high end cutters have this built in. Mine sure do.

Some even connect top link with chains so, the cutter can float.

In fact, you could cut very well with top link unhooked.

Not sure where you’re getting your information but, it’s not correct. What model cutter do you have?

 

[lostcreekranch]

RSKY;

Bush Hog 3008. Upper link connected to rear of cutter with tube inside of tube to allow rear of cutter to follow terrain.





Woods BB72 Brush Bull. Jointed upper link to .......... allow rear of cutter to follow terrain.





LS 84” Rear Finish Mower. Slack in upper link to keep Mower on it gauge wheels.





Taking float out of upper link would result in a really crappy cut if terrain was not pool table flat.

 

[DieselBound]

DB, sInce BARE-Co is in Australia, do they have US Dealers?

Yes. I got my PTO shaft from a JD dealer near by. Seem to recall that it didn't take very long to get it.

 

[DieselBound]

RSKY;

IMHO, you set cutter rear height with rear wheel(s).

You set front height with 3 point lower arms.

The top link needs to be able to float to let rear of the cutter to follow terrain. Most high end cutters have this built in. Mine sure do.

Some even connect top link with chains so, the cutter can float.

In fact, you could cut very well with top link unhooked.

Not sure where you’re getting your information but, it’s not correct. What model cutter do you have?

Good information there! I have two fairly new to me rotary cutters and both have floating top-links. In the past I'd only had a fixed top link. WHAT A HUGE difference! I feel that I have FINALLY managed to get a proper set: I am no longer constantly adjusting the hitch height to deal with undulating ground (and tree root crowns).

 

[lostcreekranch]

Yes. I got my PTO shaft from a JD dealer near by. Seem to recall that it didn't take very long to get it.

DB, I just sent Bare-Co an inquiry, on their contact page, to see if they have stocking dealers in USA and specifically in Texas.

I think that, if they work, their PTO Covers will make hookup and greasing much easier. Easier to grease usually results in ........ greasing more often.

 

[Gary Fowler]

This is what the boot area on mine is like. You can see how the boot is longer than the connection. Just makes it real difficult. Maybe not cut that boot entirely off, but several inches back so I can see and manipulate the u-joint and collar connector?

View attachment 532000

I can't have the PTO running and be out of the seat. I can't think of any good reason for me (or anyone) to ever be anywhere near the rear of the tractor with the PTO engaged. This is the only shaft-driven attachment I have though - maybe a log splitter or something else I guess there could be a reason for someone to be somewhat near that area.

I wouldn't cut right next to a person or vehicle or anything I wouldn't want shot with a rock. But if someone else is in the general area, what is a safe distance that anything flung out by the bush hog isn't a big threat? 50 yds? 100? So far it has hit some decent rocks but just made a lot of noise and hasn't sent anything flying. But am assuming it easily could launch a rock in any direction.

No kids running around my property. Mostly just me there unless my wife wants to come along and split some wood (no idea why, but she really likes splitting wood), pick grapes & berries, etc.

If the "bell" of the plastic is protruding past the end of the PTO universal joint, then by all means move it back so you can access the PTO to hook it up. This can either be done by trimming with a knife or perhaps it just needs to be slide back on the PTO shaft a bit. It should never extend past the end of the universal joint.

As for cutting saplings, I have used a lightweight bush hog to cut saplings as large as 6" (basically anything my tractor could ride over using the FEL to push them over. When bent like that, ease into them with the bush hog and it will shear them like a hot knife thru butter. It will take move finesse to chew them up though so it might require raising the bushhog up then gently lowering it on to the tree carcass. Trees in the 2-3" size, I never give them a though, just power right over them. Heck I can cut a 1" sapling with my weedeater with the steel cutter attachment.

 

[teg]

...I can't have the PTO running and be out of the seat. I can't think of any good reason for me (or anyone) to ever be anywhere near the rear of the tractor with the PTO engaged...

PTO can run cutting saws, generator, Chipper / shredder, Irrigation pump and others... For my tractor, I have a second or two to tilt the seat up and onto the steering wheel. That allows for PTO operation without someone in the seat. I run my chipper for hours at a time.

 

[oosik]

I engage the PTO, stand up and in about five seconds an alarm sounds for about 6 to 8 seconds - then its all over with. I go on about the business of stuffing the chipper.