Which grapple?

[sd455dan]

Good to hear, thanks!

Another question regarding tines. I like the long bottom style rather than the clamb-shell style. Most of the long bottom grapples have a tube going across the front, maybe 8-10 inches back from the tine tips. (like Xfaxman's wide grapple) Another type, has thicker tines with gussets, that don't have that front brace (like Xfaxman's narrower grapple). I can see where the front brace would make it hard to penetrate brush or hay. Has anyone had any experience / problems with this?

I saw another post where they describe rolling the grapple over and grabbing from on top, so maybe it's not that big of a deal.

I will disagree with some other members ( about having the tines connected together near the front), Other than possibly bending or breaking a non tied tine

imo there (may) be some advantages.



slash piles with logs- generally full penetration is possible in a single stab
getting under old wet hay and manure when cleaning stalls- works Just like a Pitch Fork no pushing the material like a bunch of old carpet piling up.
grabbing large square hay bales by stabbing the bale and clamping the lid down on the top of the bale it is also possible to get under the bale and clamp just like a standard tied tine design.

 

[4570Man]

I guess there's advantages both ways. I prefer the bar across the front because I can't do rough grading with it.

 

[Piston]

I guess there's advantages both ways. I prefer the bar across the front because I can't do rough grading with it.

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

 

[Turbys_1700]

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

I use my forks and grapple most all of the time now. I guess forks get the most use followed by grapple then bucket.

 

[John_Mc]

I see a number of comments in this thread about the width of the grapple: covering your tracks narrower than your tracks to fit through gates, and etc. this is an area that points out the importance of knowing how and where you will be using it.

My primary use is moving logs. I went with the Sundown GR40 Forestry Grapple (very similar to the Frostbite grapple). It works very well for the intended use. I also do not lose a lot of lift capacity, since the grapple weighs almost the same as the bucket it replaced. It also works very well in scooping up piles of brush and saplings that I have cut with my clearing saw.

Where is the grapple width comes in: my tractor spends a lot of time in the woods. With the narrow forestry grapple installed, the tractor is much more maneuverable when I need to get into tight spaces in the woods (at least when I am not carrying a load). Getting around tight corners with the grapple installed is a night and day difference versus when my 66 inch bucket is on the loader.

The only downside is that I no longer have a bucket (or a multi-tined grapple that will stand in for a bucket) when I need to carry some gear. I guess I will have to finally get around to adding some chain carrying boxes, chainsaw scabbards, and various other doodads for carrying tools

 

[IslandTractor]

I plan to use it to:

Tree work:
a) push over dead pine trees (have used an excavator for this - push at about 15ft high, and extend the bucket -which puts a lifting force on the tree, and the tree pops right out - even 10-14" pines) I figure I will push at ~15ft up and curl the grapple upward, to have the same effect)
b) Hold said trees to cut in 8-10ft lenghts with chain saw
c) gather and haul said trees to burn pile
d) pick up trees knocked over by wind for b and c
Brush work:
e) grab wisteria off trees higher up and rip it down
f) move large brush piles of saplings (after pulling them up stacking them with tree puller)
g) pull out and move to burn pile brush (not a lot but some)
Ground work:
In areas with wisteria or a other plants with a lot of superficial roots, grub out roots using it as a root rake.

Monster grapple certainly opens wide, and because they are close enough for me to go pick up directly from the factory, I can get it at wholesale prices. Still 72" is less than 96", so trying to figure out what is best choice.

Machine width is listed as 83", but on the diagram, the out side width of tires is shown as 90 inches.

I do all that type of grapple work with a 300lb 48" grapple with opening width of 42+ inches. Never had a need for a wider or heavier grapple. I've used the same grapple on a 20hp and 40hp tractor. 3/8" mild steel with 0.25" square tube and round tube construction. Simple unsophisticated construction. Works fine 12 years later.

 

[Piston]

Armydoc,

Your putting this on a telehandler right? You would absolutely pretzel a 4' wide, 3/8" mild steel grapple. Do not let anyone talk you into going with a narrow lightweight grapple with this machine. Many Many Many people have been talked into this, and it's a fine option, but for your machine, you would be simply throwing money away for scrap steel if you went with the infamous $500 Millonzi 48" grapple.
(I understand that I.T. is not recommending this, but just want this to be clear in case it's a little misleading)

 

[4570Man]

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

Yes that's what I meant. It's not the best choice for grading but it works good enough.

 

[ArmyDoc]

Armydoc,

Your putting this on a telehandler right? You would absolutely pretzel a 4' wide, 3/8" mild steel grapple. Do not let anyone talk you into going with a narrow lightweight grapple with this machine. Many Many Many people have been talked into this, and it's a fine option, but for your machine, you would be simply throwing money away for scrap steel if you went with the infamous $500 Millonzi 48" grapple.
(I understand that I.T. is not recommending this, but just want this to be clear in case it's a little misleading)

LOL, no. I'm not looking to put a mild steel light weight grapple on it. Looking at the Monster grapple Xfaxman uses, and trying to decide how wide. Smallest is 72" widest is 96". Difference in cost is a couple hundred $. I don't want to get the 72" one and wish I'd gotten one bigger. Likewise, don't want to spend the extra $ on a bigger one if 72" is good enough. With a bucket, people have told me to go as wide as the tires. Don't know if that applies to the grapple... doesn't seem to. Heck, Xfaxman has posted pictures of him carrying the whole tree, so I doubt a few inches would make a difference.

 

[goeduck]

I do all that type of grapple work with a 300lb 48" grapple with opening width of 42+ inches. Never had a need for a wider or heavier grapple. I've used the same grapple on a 20hp and 40hp tractor. 3/8" mild steel with 0.25" square tube and round tube construction. Simple unsophisticated construction. Works fine 12 years later.

I wonder why no one can build a common sense grapple like that anymore. Wide opening, narrow, lightweight. Perfect.

Closest I see out there is the 48 inch WR Long obg2 but by the time I ship it, it is $2K.