Tractor newbie

[john690]

My wife and I recent purchased 33 acres in NW Ohio. 29 acres of woods and 4 acres of open field (mowed). Fortunately, the property has an existing 45x30 outbuilding (a place to store equipment). Our plan, within the next two years, build a new home and larger outbuilding. In the meantime, I need a tractor for land maintenance (cutting trails, moving downed trees, moving brush, setting fence posts, mowing, maintenance of future 1100+ foot gravel driveway). I am new to tractors and hydraulic systems. However, I am mechanically inclined and plan to perform the routine maintenance on my equipment. I have been reading the forums for the past several months and I have learned a great deal... but I am looking to gain more knowledge from TBN members. Thanks in advance for all the advise!

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To the TBN forum John. You have come to the right place to get all the answers you need and then some.

We love to spend other peoples money. I would suggest a minimum of 30 hp. Be sur to test drive many different tractors to get the feel and to determine which one you feel most comfortable with.

 

[jeff9366]

The best way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish your tasks. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites.

For most tasks greater tractor chassis weight is more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend.

Heavier tractors have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements. Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs, yielding a smoother, less disturbing passage over rough ground.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than flat land operation. Heavier tractors have wider wheel spreads making them less laterally unstable. Rear wheel spreads may be decreased or increased.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one configuration. Most, such as the high volume kubota standard L series, are sparely equipped to hit competitive price points. Others, such as the Yanmar YT235 and Kubota B2650/B3350 series, include enhanced productivity and comfort components.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are operated in residential applications on one to five fairly flat acres. These "residential tractors" fit in a typical garage.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration, on a common chassis. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you have to pay. Many tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are too tall to fit in a typical garage, even with ROPS folded.

It takes a 50% increase in tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor you take a hit in depreciation. Passing time with multiple browsers is a pain. ((Ask me how I know.))

For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important. Less so for others, experienced with tractors, who perform their own maintenance. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment.

Horsepower is a primary consideration only operating PTO powered implements.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[jeff9366]

My wife and I recent purchased 33 acres in NW Ohio. 29 acres of woods and 4 acres of open field (mowed). Our plan, within the next two years, build a new home, larger outbuilding and 1100+ foot gravel driveway.

In the meantime, I need a tractor for land maintenance (cutting trails, moving downed trees, moving brush, setting fence posts, mowing.

I am new to tractors and hydraulic systems. However, I am mechanically inclined and plan to perform the routine maintenance on my equipment. I have been reading the forums for the past several months and I have learned a great deal... but I am looking to gain more knowledge from TBN members.

Thanks in advance for advice!

You have not mentioned if your property is flat or sloped -- a key factor. What about snow moving?


Your tractor need is for ground contact work on four acres plus 1,100 foot gravel driveway, plus twenty-nine acres woods work.

If your land is flat I believe a 2,300 pound to 3,000 pound bare weight tractor will serve well. All have at least 12" of ground clearance, essential for woods work. Every tractor brand includes tractor models in this weight range.

In Kubota's line, the only tractor line I am knowledgable about, that would be the full featured B2650/B3350 @ 2,400 (+/-) pounds or the more sparely equipped L2501/L3301 @ 2,700 (+/-) pounds.

If you will operate on hillsides consider an increment heavier, the (bare tractor) 3,500 pound L3560. This model is the lightest of Kubota's heavy-chassis 'Grand L' tractors. Rear wheel width is adjustable from 47" to 58" wide, a huge variable.

The L3560 is available with LA805 Loader with 1,700+ pounds lift capacity @ $27,000, pre sales tax. I have L3560/LA805 setup, which I use in woods work, and it is the berries. For heavy loader lifts you need Three Point Hitch counterbalance. With the LA805 FEL I typically mount either a 600 pound Cultipacker or a 900 pound TR3 Rake as Three Point Hitch counterbalance.



Plan your outbuilding with a door tall enough for the tractor to enter/exit WITH THE ROPS UP.
I have to fold my ROPS. It is a dangerous temptation to leave the ROPS down when I exit garage intending short duration tasks.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[oosik]

What Jeff says and his approach makes a whole lot of sense. It can be a time consuming approach and one that will require a lot of thought.

You must have an idea of what you want to do with the land. Not just today, but 5, 10 even 15 years in the future. That's one of the reasons you will read so much about "buying big". Folks don't look down the road and see the big picture. It can be difficult to see.

What is so often seen is - small jobs/projects escalate into large jobs/projects and the tractor that initially seemed too big is now just right for the larger jobs.

 

[Thomas]

:welcome: to TBN John...congrats on your new homestead.:thumbsup:

 

[Peter 315]

HI welcome, After months of reading all the post you should have a good idea on what size and make of tractor to buy GOOD LUCK

 

[TBN Support]

:welcome:

Congrats on your new land!

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Enjoy the site.

 

[john690]

You have not mentioned if your property is flat or sloped -- a key factor. What about snow moving?


Your tractor need is for ground contact work on four acres plus 1,100 foot gravel driveway, plus twenty-nine acres woods work.

If your land is flat I believe a 2,300 pound to 3,000 pound bare weight tractor will serve well. All have at least 12" of ground clearance, essential for woods work. Every tractor brand includes tractor models in this weight range.

In Kubota's line, the only tractor line I am knowledgable about, that would be the full featured B2650/B3350 @ 2,400 (+/-) pounds or the more sparely equipped L2501/L3301 @ 2,700 (+/-) pounds.

If you will operate on hillsides consider an increment heavier, the (bare tractor) 3,500 pound L3560. This model is the lightest of Kubota's heavy-chassis 'Grand L' tractors. Rear wheel width is adjustable from 47" to 58" wide, a huge variable.

The L3560 is available with LA805 Loader with 1,700+ pounds lift capacity @ $27,000, pre sales tax. I have L3560/LA805 setup, which I use in woods work, and it is the berries. For heavy loader lifts you need Three Point Hitch counterbalance. With the LA805 FEL I typically mount either a 600 pound Cultipacker or a 900 pound TR3 Rake as Three Point Hitch counterbalance.



Plan your outbuilding with a door tall enough for the tractor to enter/exit WITH THE ROPS UP.
I have to fold my ROPS. It is a dangerous temptation to leave the ROPS down when I exit garage intending short duration tasks.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

Our land is fairly flat. In fact, some portions of the woods are actually classified by US Army Corps of Engineers as "wetlands." However, these areas are only wet a portion of the year.

I have visited my local tractor dealers (JD, New Holland, Kubota and Kioti). JD, New Holland and Kubota are within 15 miles of our property. The Kioti is 50 miles away. A little further than I would like, but not out of the question. I've looked at JD 3046R and 4052R (still waiting on a price for the 4052R), Kubota - L3901 & L4701, New Holland - Boomer 40 & 45 and Kioti - NX4510, NX5010 & NX5510. All are open ROPS stations with hydrostat transmissions. I am concerned that a cab would be too easily damaged in the woods. Considering weight, fel capacity and price, the Kioti's models standout. Early on in my shopping I put the specs on a spreadsheet which makes it easy to compare brands and models. The current outbuilding has tall door so there is no worry about having to fold the ROPS.

We get approximately 36 inches of snow annually (not too bad). I also intend to purchase a UTV (Kubota or Polaris) to use for clearing our average snows (1-4 inches) and use the tractor fel for any larger snows.

I have a tendency to over analyze any large purchases. However, I do not want to buy a tractor that is too small! I've heard those stories. My idea is to purchase a larger tractor because I know that I will find many other chores to complete with a tractor.