Buying Advice Advice on size/type of tractor/implements to purchase

[aldaric]

Hello. I moved from the city out to the country within the last year, and am looking to purchase a new or gently used tractor to help me around my 10 acres. I currently have chickens and ducks, and 3 fields (not in production) of about 2.5 acres each. I've planted some fruit trees last year, and some berry bushes, with plans to plant more.

We do get alot of snow here in East Otto NY, but I've got a snowblower and have been doing fine with that, so I don't know that I need a snowblower for the tractor. I don't believe I need a backhoe, If I ever get to expand my pond, I'd rent an excavator. So I am guessing that maybe a blade, a cultivator or a disk and plow, maybe a front bucket for moving stone or small bales or something... I also have a lawn mower so I don't see the need for a belly mower or a PTO mower..Although maybe a brush hog.

My experience with tractors is somewhat limited. I did haul hay for my ex-father in law in Minnesota, using his old Farmall H and M to pull the hay wagons. On the bright side, I didn't tip anything, and had no accidents, so I call that a plus. Also, he had a big 4wd CaseIH (no idea model, about 1980s vintage. double tires on all sides) that I used to turn over his fields in the fall..

So I am guessing I am needing something in the range of under 27hp (so no catylitic converter is needed). If I was mechanically inclined I would consider an older Farmall or something but I'd rather not have to worry about working on something all the time.

Anyone have any thoughts, advice or concerns?

 

[nybirdman]

I think you are on the right track;below 26 HP to beat the latest emission's requirements.4 Wheel drive,HST
FEL and 2500lbs would be about right.I am most familiar with Kubota ;so the L2501 comes to mind.The smaller "B"'s also would be worth a consideration;B2650.

 

[newbury]

Do you have a firm price range for all the equipment?
Definitely get a front bucket.

 

[TheMan419]

Front bucket for sure.

All the major brands will have something similar. Go look and see. I ended up with NH because some of the specs that mattered to me and a great dealer who is close by.

 

[Tractorable]

Hello. I moved from the city out to the country within the last year, and am looking to purchase a new or gently used tractor to help me around my 10 acres. I currently have chickens and ducks, and 3 fields (not in production) of about 2.5 acres each. I've planted some fruit trees last year, and some berry bushes, with plans to plant more.

We do get alot of snow here in East Otto NY, but I've got a snowblower and have been doing fine with that, so I don't know that I need a snowblower for the tractor. I don't believe I need a backhoe, If I ever get to expand my pond, I'd rent an excavator. So I am guessing that maybe a blade, a cultivator or a disk and plow, maybe a front bucket for moving stone or small bales or something... I also have a lawn mower so I don't see the need for a belly mower or a PTO mower..Although maybe a brush hog.

My experience with tractors is somewhat limited. I did haul hay for my ex-father in law in Minnesota, using his old Farmall H and M to pull the hay wagons. On the bright side, I didn't tip anything, and had no accidents, so I call that a plus. Also, he had a big 4wd CaseIH (no idea model, about 1980s vintage. double tires on all sides) that I used to turn over his fields in the fall..

So I am guessing I am needing something in the range of under 27hp (so no catylitic converter is needed). If I was mechanically inclined I would consider an older Farmall or something but I'd rather not have to worry about working on something all the time.

Anyone have any thoughts, advice or concerns?

My property is similar to yours, an eight acre hobby farm. I've done about two years of research and have concluded that a Kubota L series, Yanmar YT235, or a similar size/weight Korean tractor (Kioti, LS, Branson, TYM, or RK) would be about perfect for your needs. If you don't plan to do a lot of PTO intensive work like bush hogging or snow blowing then stick to one of the 25hp larger frame CUT's without the emissions equipment.

 

[jeff9366]

The best way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish your tasks. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models.

For most tractor tasks greater chassis weight is more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend. It takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Heavier tractors have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements. Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs, yielding a smoother, less disturbing passage over rough ground.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than flat land operation. Heavier tractors have wider wheel spreads making heavier tractors less laterally unstable. Rear wheel spreads may be decreased or increased after jacking up the rear.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one configuration. Most, such as the high volume kubota standard L series, are sparely equipped to hit competitive price points. Others, such as the Yanmar YT235 and Kubota B2650/B3350 series, include enhanced productivity and comfort components.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are operated in residential applications on one to five fairly flat acres. These "residential tractors" fit in a typical garage.

Every tractor brand includes a model in the 2,600 pound to 3,000 pound (bare tractor) range with 100 cubic inch/24 horsepower engine ample for your tasks. Tractors under 25-horsepower are exempt from the stringent, Tier IV emission controls which abruptly increase a tractor's cost about $3,000 above the 25-horsepower demarcation.

For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important. Dealer proximity is less important to others, well experienced with tractors, who perform their own maintenance. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment.

 

[jeff9366]

I moved from the city to the country last year. I am researching purchase of a new or gently used tractor to help around my 10 acres; three fields of 2.5 acres each. I have chickens and ducks. I planted fruit trees and berry bushes last year, with plans to plant more.

We do get a lot of snow in East Otto NY, but I have a snowblower so I don't need a snowblower for the tractor.
I have a lawn mower so I don't need a belly mower or a PTO finish mower.

So I am guessing Rotary Cutter, a blade, a cultivator or a disk and plow, maybe a front bucket for moving stone or small bales.

My experience with tractors is limited. I did haul hay for my ex-father in law in Minnesota, using his old Farmall H and M to pull the hay wagons. Also, he had a big 4wd Case-IH that I used to turn his fields. I didn't tip anything, and had no accidents, I call that a plus..

So I guess I need a tractor under 25-hp so no Tier IV emission control equipment is required.

Every tractor brand includes a model in the 2,600 pound to 3,000 pound (bare tractor) range with 100 cubic inch/24 horsepower engine ample for your tasks. Tractors under 25-horsepower are exempt from the stringent, Tier IV emission controls which abruptly increase a tractor's cost about $3,000 above the 25-horsepower demarcation.

KUBOTA L2501: https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/brochure-sheets/l2501.pdf?sfvrsn=34e9b1d_8

VIDEO: kubota L2501 tractor - YouTube


Light tractors need 4-WD for traction. Probably 90% are sold with a Front End Loader (FEL) and Hydrostatic transmission (HST). Around $18,000 equipped, plus sales tax.

I suggest a 60" PTO powered roto-tiller or an Unverferth Perfecta in lieu of plow and Disc Harrow combination.
VIDEO: Cultivating with a Perfecta - YouTube
VENDER: Buckeye Tractor Online Catalog Page 11-03 Toolbar Cultivators

This weight tractor can operate a 60" wide Rotary Cutter / Bush Hog in grass 24" tall, a tad higher mowing very slowly. Cultivators are fine for row crops. I prefer the style of Cultivator with each tine adjustable for height, rather than all tines being fixed at one height.

Used with prudence on a light tractor bucket, in reasonably soft soil, a Bucket Spade can be very useful for berry work and tree planting.


TRACTOR IMPLEMENTS (2): Buckeye Tractor Co -- Online
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

 

[RalphVa]

I 2nd the vote for a small tractor with FEL and bush hog. I'd also vote for chipper/shredder to handle cuttings from those fruit trees. You might be able to use a "tool bar" type of 3ph on the back like an Agri Supply Keulavator. To it, you can affix cultivators, plows, discs, etc. Look at the old JD M tool bar that I had on my 18.5 hp JD 4010 (now called a 2019E if they sold them). My most used attachments are the bush hog and chipper/shredder and occasionally use the carryall (picture of it for hauling mulch).

I liked the Kubota B2301 but wouldn't disagree with the B2650 or similar. Love my present JD 2025R and wish I could have gotten like a 2019R ("R" just means more nice stuff like a long reach 3PH controller and such vs. an "E" model). Love the Isuzu diesel generator, about 20 hp (12.5 kw). Think there's one tractor manufacturer that has Isuzu engines. No knowledge about the tractor.

If you have any bushes/brush or uneven ground, you do not want a SCUT with under belly hydraulic fans, and I don't recommend the JD 1025R. Had one between the 4010 and 2025R, and it was a piece of junk.

Any hills? Definitely need 4WD. Don't have 4 wheel brakes on a tractor unless it's in 4wd, and you can end up skidding downhill with absolutely no control. Been there; done that. Even had a Gravely for the 1st 4 years. Didn't have enough traction up/down hills, even with dual wheels/tires.

Ralph