Grapple plumbing question

[jbos333]

For those of you who currently have grapples-

Do you use the factory remote lever to actuate the grapple cylinders? If so, is it awkward to operate?

I have seen a loader-joystick mounted solenoid that uses the curl cylinder circuit to also open/close the grapple when button on joystick is depressed. This seems like it would be easier/smoother to operate than the factory remote lever.

Does anyone have the solenoid and button? If so, where can I get one?

I already have the grapple.

Thanks!

Jay

 

[goeduck]

Most people seem to have the solenoid switchover of the curl circuit. I have regular remotes, separate from the FEL joystick. One tractor has that remote on the right fender. The other left of the joystick. Never been an issue to me to make a slight move of my arm to open and close the grapple.

 

[Eric102]

Mines lever operated as well, simple and effective, not awkward at all.

 

[Msamt]

I have only used the joystick mounted button, and I can't imagine how I would use the rear remote lever in its place, but that could likely be because how I have learned.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I think this depends on what you're trying to do with the grapple. If you are moving logs or rocks from one place to another, the rear remotes work fine. When doing a continuous work operation with rapid repetitive movement like clearing brush and cut saplings, the joystick mounted switch can speed up the operation considerably.

I used rear remotes on my old Kubota L3430 and didn't mind taking my hand off the FEL joystick to open or close the grapple. When I traded it for the MX5800, I sprung for a W&R Long 3rd function valve with the switch on the joystick. I noticed the improvement immediately when I cut a road through the woods to access the rear of my property. I found I could operate all the grapple functions smoothly in one continuous action without taking my hand off the FEL joystick. It made the work go quite a bit faster.

The W&R Long 3rd function valve cost $850 installed and to me, was worth the $$. It's a matter of preference though. If you do a lot of grapple work, the 3rd function can be a time saver. Still, you learn to work with what you have and stay within your budget.

 

[N2DFire]

Jay,

I'm lazy by nature so this is a slightly modified copy & paste of a reply I wrote in another thread in the Kioti forums yesterday.

There are actually 3 basic options for getting auxiliary hydraulics to the Front End Loader.

Option1 & the cheapest being a set of long hoses to one of the Rear Remotes (assuming you already have rear remotes, otherwise the total cost goes way up)
PRO - it's Cheap, quick, and easy to install.
CON - it won't be the easiest to operate since you have to move between the loader control and the Rear SCV control.

Option 2 and mid range on expense is a Diverter Valve (which is what you are describing)
Think of this as an Electronically controlled A/B switch. It gets installed between the loader valve & the cylinders the valve controls (typically the Curl/Dump function). Then you have a single On/Off push button on the loader knob. When the button is Off - the curl/dump function works like normal. When the button is On (Pressed) & the loader control is moved in the Curl/Dump directions, the diverter sends fluid to (in this case) the grapple lid to open and close instead.

PRO - you have proportional control of the operation and are able to gently feather the controls.
CON - you have to pick Curl/Dump OR Open/Close, which means at some point your desired set of actions will require you to press the button, move the stick one way, center the stick, let off the button, move the stick the other way. Folks who have this set-up say that with a little time it becomes second nature and they like having the ability to feather the 3rd function

Option 3 is the most expensive and that is a "true" 3rd function.
In this case you have 2 buttons on the loader control that operate a separate solenoid valve which controls the Open & Close function of the grapple independently of the loader valve.
The catch & the reason I put True in quotes, is that it will only be able to supply the fluid from system that is NOT already being used by the loader valve. What that means in English is that even though it's a separate valve / function it will most likely not operate in tandem with either the Lift/Lower or Dump/Curl functions in operation (unless you are feathering them very very lightly).

PRO - a slightly simpler control set to learn and the ability to come close to getting true 3rd function operation **
CON - these valves are simple On/Off valves so you have no ability to feather other than just making quick "blips" on the control button. **

I've run our grapple like that for quite some time and honestly I haven't seen a single issue with not having the ability to feather, but I don't grapple eggs and glass either.


** Michigan Iron & Equipment has recently released a new 3rd function kit that is plumbed / ported in such a fashion as to allow true 3rd function operation. They offer both a simple Off/On like the other 3rd function solenoid version (but with true independent operation) or a Proportional Version that allows feathering like a Diverter set-up. miemachinerydivision
PRO (obviously) - these allow true independent operation of the 3rd function regardless of what the loader valve is doing.
CON - cost. As of right now it's $1195 for On/Of and $1495 for Proportional

There are several great kits on the market from forums supporters like MIE and EverythingAttachments, MtnViewRanch (Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com) and Kens Bolt On Hooks (Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Hydraulics>>) to name a few.

You also have the option to build your own. Several folks here (myself included) have done that. I have attached the write-up I did for our CK35 if you're interested.

Regardless of what you pick, there are lots of folks here that can help you out if you get stuck along the way.

 

[LouNY]

Mines lever operated as well, simple and effective, not awkward at all.

I also use one of my rear remotes, either by moving my right hand from the loader joystick to the remote lever usually, on occasion I have reached accost with my left and actually run the remote reaching across my body, a bit awkward but doable.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I replaced my loader valve with a new one that has a joystick plus an extra lever. It's no issue operating the lever, other than it's current position, which I'll fix with a new "bent to my spec" lever.

 

[/pine]

For me it was easier to add an additional single spool valve (w/PB)...mounted it on the outside of the FEL valve and made a custom lever...the valve has a removable detent so the front remotes can be used for my winch and in a pinch the log splitter/ lift etc...at the time the valve and detent kit cost $125...

 

[flingwing1969]

Most people seem to have the solenoid switchover of the curl circuit. I have regular remotes, separate from the FEL joystick. One tractor has that remote on the right fender. The other left of the joystick. Never been an issue to me to make a slight move of my arm to open and close the grapple.

That's what I have and it works. The solenoid button is on top of the control lever (which is a replacement for the original stick, not simply something ziptied to the side of the stick). When I'm working I find that I tend to hit the switch from time to time because I tend to put my palm on top of the stick, which is where the button (hidden under a layer of soft rubber) lives. I should tell you, it does not operate a grapple but a 4n1 bucket, but the theory is the same.