4 or 5' box blade

[CMV]

Been borrowing a friend's 5' box blade. Works pretty well for most of what I've used it for, except if I drop the teeth all the way down. That turns it into an anchor pretty much after about 2-3 feet of travel.

My owners manual says use 4' implements. Been looking at clist for deals on box blades and see a fair price for a bush hog brand 4' one. Wonder if I should down size or stay with the 5'? Seems like for just maintaining a gravel road or spreading loose dirt/gravel, the 5' would be more efficient. But if i want to tear up some ground, maybe I need the smaller width so I can actually pull it?

Or is dropping the teeth to lowest possible setting a bad practice in general and a 4' would anchor the tractor same way?

Also - how "tight" should the box blade be? Meaning I should adjust the stabilizers to allow how much lateral movement? Leaving them loose makes getting it on off simple since the lower arms clear the pins easily, but real easy to have it sway too far to one side. I can tighten it up enough that it feels pretty solid - can't shake it side-to-side but seems that might break something without any free play? No idea how it "should be".

 

[/pine]

FWIW...I have a 17 HP B series K_ubota that weighs about the same as your LS...I have a Bush Hog brand CBX60 box blade...weighs under 275#...it is what the dealer recommended and it has worked great...

What this size tractors lacks most is overall weight/traction...(I have filled rears)...I have an 80# piece of rail steel that I strap to the box blade sometimes if I'm doing any real cutting...

I would go with the 5' blade for your tractor without a second thought...

Good Luck...

BTW...I keep the check links fairly tight...

 

[bcp]

Try the 5 without all the teeth dropped.

Bruce

 

[prichard]

How wide is your tractor, outside tire to outside tire? Hard to work a blade smaller than you track. Often blades will stop a tractor dead all the way down. Especially, small tractors like ours. We run out of traction before we run out of HP.

 

[CMV]

I think a 4' would cover the rear wheels. 5' stuff is decent amount wider. But sounds like I should just get a 5' and not be so aggressive with the teeth? Price difference on a used one in good shape isn't much between 4 & 5'

 

[CMV]

BTW...I keep the check links fairly tight...

How tight is fairly tight? Like lift it off the ground and you can move it left-right a few inches? a foot? or not at all?

 

[/pine]

How tight is fairly tight? Like lift it off the ground and you can move it left-right a few inches? a foot? or not at all?

I have turnbuckles and I have removed the clinch nuts so if I don't keep them tight (no sway) they get looser and looser...so I keep them tight...no movement...

 

[CMV]

Thanks! I didn't know if that would hurt anything having it so tight it didn't move at all side-side. I would prefer that so it stays centered even on a slope.

 

[prichard]

There's nothing wrong with 4' if it covers your track. But weight is needed for box blades to work right. 5' will be heavier but you can add weight on top of it as well.

 

[bruceatlam]

I rarely find that I need to use the scarifying teeth on my box blade. The blade by itself (when it's properly angled) cuts the material that I want to cut. I can angle it deep enough to stop the tractor cold without using the teeth. So, pay attention to blade angle.

You want to cut in a straight line ---- keep the blade as tight as you can and cut straight. If you try to cut in a curve you will break something.

A hydraulic top link will be your best friend.

Buy the 5' blade and forget about the teeth ---- angle the blade to cut as much as you can pull.