Pulled this old Oliver out of the field...

[LouNY]

That's right; it never had one and you'll never need one. Cut it off, grind the edges smooth and call it good.

A hammerstrap is used mostly on tillage tools that pulse to and fro (hunt) and pound the cr@p out of a drawbar by elongating the hole. A hammertrap slows this action way down. Save it, just in case.

When you bolt the drawbar bracket back on, I would use grade 8 bolts and lock washers with a drop of blue locktite. Sometimes brackets loosen up and you don't want a casting break.

We very seldom have need for the hammer strap, it adds shear points to the draw pins doubling up the pulling capacity. However we have never used one even with Chisel plows that can and have spun out the 4wd IH Magnums, pulling forage choppers with an attached forage wagon with tandem rear axles anchored to the tractor with a single 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch draw pin.
Also even though that is called a swinging drawbar we have never used ours with out having it pined in position, it should be called an adjustable draw bar.

 

[Smokepole62]

Man, that's a nice old IR type 30. Sadly, we don't make them at the plant any more. Used to be a ton of parts laying around the stock room but they finally cleaned out the stock room. They were built to last a lifetime.

 

[fried1765]

Year behind ya. Me too.....

You DON"T need to apologize for still being in the "gathering mode" guys!
At 77, my philosophy is: If I want it, and I can afford it, I get it!
My two boys will just have to sort it all out at the end!

 

[fried1765]

I have an old IR from the mid eighties. 3 phase power, 2 stage pump, 80 gallon tank. Puts off massive CFM. The blast cabinet is an older unit of the same vintage, don't know which brand, but it is big! It also has its own standing dust collector, also runs off 3 phase.

That's a full size beer keg in there.

I note that your IR is pressure lubed.
That is great quality.
I have a 5 HP Quincy (vertical 80gal.) 20CFM/175psi, a great machine also.

 

[mopardude318]

Well I got some more done. I had to rebuild these hydraulic assist steering rams they were leaking and had bent rods. It took me quite a while to first search for replacements or something similar with no luck. I decided to cut them open and attempt a rebuild.

I had new rods made at a machine shop.

Trying to find a replacement piston ring was an ordeal, but I found one that'll work. It has an o-ring underneath with a teflon ring on top. Hydraulic shop recommended that.

The rod is in and now just weld it back up

I'm glad a seal kit is still available

Same for the ball joint end

I bent up some new lines and had new flex lines made using JIC fittings.

 

[ultrarunner]

You do good work...

Did you know anyone in the Hydraulic business before taking on this project?

So many of the places I used restoring antique cars are no more in my part of the SF Bay Area... the old guys had no one to take over the business.

 

[Coyote machine]

Excellent work and dedication to problem solving all the pitfalls of a project like yours.
I have one suggestion for future projects: Instead of using zip ties for electrical wiring harness staging I find the velcro wrap ties work well for me on any wiring project, and there are no razor sharp cuts when one snags the cut off end with one's hand. AND, they allow for repositioning, reuse and the addition of more or reduction of less wires as needed. And one can do the tape-over thing like you did instead of using the wire loom plastic sheathing to cover/consolidate and look professional too In some long run areas you could also use the same braided sheathing that is used to protect hydraulic lines from abrasion. It comes in different diameters and lengths from the hydraulics 'stores'.

And one other thought would be to spray Kroil down each cylinder before even trying to crank an old unknown condition engine over. Shoot some down the spark plug holes and let 'er sit a few days, then crank it over. If somethings stuck it could make the difference between a ring breaking or scoring a cylinder.

Now go get that other field gem-you know you want to, and start on it too!

Oh, yeah, I'd put some real cloth breathable covers over your other restoration projects - otherwise trapped moisture can do much damage to all kinds of surfaces inside and out - JMHO.

Also, you may not consider yourself a mechanic- but I would have hired you to work in my shop anyday! ( previously owned and ran foreign auto repair and sales shop for over ten years- then sold it).

 

[majorwager]

MOPAR
Waiting for "safety police" to go apoplectic over your grinder. Nice project, good luck w/ restoration. When finished, schedule a tractor pull w/ the Kubota.


EDIT: spoke too soon, here they come, to quote a prominent member, "WHAP, WHAP".

 

[bcp]

MOPAR
Waiting for "safety police" to go apoplectic over your grinder. Nice project, good luck w/ restoration. When finished, schedule a tractor pull w/ the Kubota.

That cutting disk should be replaced with a soft buffing wheel so it won't accidentally cut something.



Bruce

 

[4570Man]

That cutting disk should be replaced with a soft buffing wheel so it won't accidentally cut something.



Bruce

That is pretty dangerous. Those cut off wheels are prone to exploding. I use the Lenox steel disk diamond edge cut off wheels. They’re well worth the $15 imo.