I'm a &*%# idiot...

[Thomas]

" I'm a &*%# idiot..."
Naaaaa...that's how we learn the tricks of the trades.

 

[k0ua]

That's the answer I was looking for, for the tractor I have, etc. Thanks!:thumbsup: Now, how much to come to my house and do the drain and refill - I'll supply the HST 'UTF'?

The last one I did recently I got the neighbor to come over and do it so I didn't have to mess with it. He is about 30 and I am well over twice that. I do a little tractor work for him from time to time, and he "owes" me, so I let him work it out in things I don't really like doing. He swapped the tires from the winter to the summer tires on the minivan last weekend. The wife has has been eyeing him up as a mulch laying machine. He still has a lot of "owe" left on the books. Works for me.

 

[Jstpssng]

Just curious. What engine do you have?

I have a Kawasaki 850V on my ZTR. It has a device similar to this for draining oil. I can open the drain using a screwdriver in a slot on the "nut." I route a short length of garden hose from the outlet to a pan.

View attachment 551810

Steve

I suspect that the type of drain is determined by the mower manufacturer. Last weekend I changed the oil on my mother's Simplicity with a 20 HP Briggs. It had a 10" hydraulic line threaded into the block, and a nut threaded into the other end similar to what the OP described. Her Husqvarna with an 18 HP Briggs had a device which you attach a hose to and feed it into the drain pan; then push and turn a spring loaded valve to release the old oil.
It sure beats what I'm used to, a square plug tucked up under the motor with no way to get a pan near it, so you end up with engine oil all over the place.

 

[Dftodd]

I suspect that the type of drain is determined by the mower manufacturer. Last weekend I changed the oil on my mother's Simplicity with a 20 HP Briggs. It had a 10" hydraulic line threaded into the block, and a nut threaded into the other end similar to what the OP described. Her Husqvarna with an 18 HP Briggs had a device which you attach a hose to and feed it into the drain pan; then push and turn a spring loaded valve to release the old oil.
It sure beats what I'm used to, a square plug tucked up under the motor with no way to get a pan near it, so you end up with engine oil all over the place.

If the drain plugs hard to reach, then usually I fix that the first oil change. Had a Cub Cadet mower that had some really hokie plastic ball valve/ drain. Was hard to get too and leaked after a couple of uses. Drain portion didn't stick out far enough to get a pan under it. The mower deck was in the way.

First time I used the drain, it was irritating. The second time the valve wouldn't seal shut. I ran to the hardware store. Picked up a nipple, ball valve, street 90 and a cap. Ran it out far enough to clear the mower deck. Luckily it was NPT, so I didn't have to get a BSTP to NPT adapter. Next oil change was no muss no fuss. Just positioned the pan, popped of the cap, and opened the ball valve

Neighbor had a Cub Cadet as well, and was really complaining about the oil drain. Showed him what I did, and he ended up running to the hardware store that afternoon

My zero turn has a whip hose with cap for the oil drain.