Kubota engine oil

[bdhsfz6]

Since this appears to be a hot button topic here at TBN, let me ask a question. Has ANYONE here EVER had an issue with a Kubota engine caused by a particular brand / type of oil? I think I would rather know what oil NOT to use instead of which is best. Catastrophic failures are rare but inferior oil could easily reduce overall engine life. Since many of us here trade in our tractors with less than 5000 hours on the clock, the problem will be obvious only to second hand buyers.

I for one have never had an issue in the 38 years I've owned Kubota tractors. While I'm a firm believer in using Kubota products during the warranty period, I have used a variety of properly spec'ed oils over the years. There are so many excellent engine oils on the market today, it's difficult to make an informed choice.

 

[oosik]

Well.....bought my first tractor - new in '82. Have used several brands of oil - all specified for diesel engines. Never a problem related to brand or type of oil used.

I spent twenty two years in Alaska - used Lubriplate oils exclusively. Easy to locate, excellent product, not all that cheap though. I surmise the ease of access was because Lubriplate was used by many of the oil companies during construction of the Trans-Alaskan pipeline. I changed brands when we moved down from Alaska - Lubriplate is not an easy product to locate in these parts.

 

[Ford850]

I use Rotella T6 in almost everything, but definitely in my Grasshopper mowers with Kubota diesels, and my DX55. I only buy it when it's on sale or with rebates (just bought 4 gallons for $19.99 less $7 rebate cash = $12.99 gallon). I change it annually in everything so I don't try to get extended hours out of it. I've read enough about oil breakdown from seasonal changes, so an annual change routine is easy to monitor for me. I don't use it to save money, but it is only slightly more expensive than other oils. I do like the easier starts in winter months and think the synthetic might give a little better protection for the mowers on hot days. One of the biggest benefits for me is I now have ONE oil to keep on hand rather than 6 partial jugs of all different weights and flavors. Having said all of that, I firmly believe most oils, changed regularly, will protect your engine just fine.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Yes but there is also the advantages of people that live in an area where there is a wide range of temp, I can operate at si negative temps and triple digits in a year, I've noticed much better cold starts from the t6 over a conventional 10w30.

Also the synthetic resist the acidic issues from from incomplete heat cycles better, which is good due to the short run times common with small CUT's.

Price difference for the oil change on my tractor between t4 and t6? About $5.

The temperature factor is the key reason around the place we moved to T6 about 10 years ago plus we have not found a better quality motor oil. In fact most of the motor oil today seems to be an over kill if there is such a thing.

 

[sixdogs]

A couple years ago I started a thread with the premise that conventional oils were getting so good that it might be worth it to use dino oil rather than synthetic and pocket the difference. I came away from that thinking that it's true, conventional oil for most of us here is really excellent oil.

With one exception and that's cold start. When temps cool down, starting a tractor that has synthetic oil in it is a refreshing hassle from the old days. Synthetic starts like summer and on that basis alone is doing what I want to. I may never own a tractor long enough to realize money but the extra resale I get from a well maintained tractor is worth it when I sell.

So, I started the thread with the intent to switch to dido and came out with a greater conviction towards synthetic, cold starting and less wear at start up.

 

[crashz]

My new Kubota would not start in the extreme low temps this winter. It would start fine down to about 10 degrees, but colder temps caused it to not start. The battery would have enough juice to glow the glow plugs for 3-5 seconds, but if the engine did not spin fast enough in the first few seconds to catch and start, the battery would be too weak to try again.

0 and below temps are pretty extreme, and I did have the factory fill oil in the crankcase, so when I did my 50 hr service, in went Rotella T6. I'm hoping that will get better next year (might go with a stronger battery too).

Since I'm averaging about 50-60 hrs per year, annual oil changes will include synthetics. Also its the same oil I use in my dumptruck, so its nice to stock it up when on sale and leave it on the shelf.

Over the years I have become fond of stocking common oils that will work for many applications and OEM filters.

 

[TMGT]

My new Kubota would not start in the extreme low temps this winter. It would start fine down to about 10 degrees, but colder temps caused it to not start. The battery would have enough juice to glow the glow plugs for 3-5 seconds, but if the engine did not spin fast enough in the first few seconds to catch and start, the battery would be too weak to try again.

0 and below temps are pretty extreme, and I did have the factory fill oil in the crankcase, so when I did my 50 hr service, in went Rotella T6. I'm hoping that will get better next year (might go with a stronger battery too).

Since I'm averaging about 50-60 hrs per year, annual oil changes will include synthetics. Also its the same oil I use in my dumptruck, so its nice to stock it up when on sale and leave it on the shelf.

Over the years I have become fond of stocking common oils that will work for many applications and OEM filters.

Our temps can be pretty low at times, coldest I've started my B was about -7 with the 5-6year old factory battery, no problems with the T6, definitely a slower cranking speed with the factory fill even at higher temps.

For the extra $5 per change I feel it's worth it.

 

[sixdogs]

My new Kubota would not start in the extreme low temps this winter. It would start fine down to about 10 degrees, but colder temps caused it to not start. The battery would have enough juice to glow the glow plugs for 3-5 seconds, but if the engine did not spin fast enough in the first few seconds to catch and start, the battery would be too weak to try again.

0 and below temps are pretty extreme, and I did have the factory fill oil in the crankcase, so when I did my 50 hr service, in went Rotella T6. I'm hoping that will get better next year (might go with a stronger battery too).

Since I'm averaging about 50-60 hrs per year, annual oil changes will include synthetics. Also its the same oil I use in my dumptruck, so its nice to stock it up when on sale and leave it on the shelf.

Over the years I have become fond of stocking common oils that will work for many applications and OEM filters.

Try charging your battery in the late fall just before winter and see if that helps. Worked for me.

 

[art]

I see a lot of people always raving about shell rotella oil for their diesel tractors. Yes it has shown success in tractor trailers for longevity of engines and that is great. I have never seen a tractor trailer or large truck that runs on the governor like tractors do.. Tractor trailers are rated at 1/3 throttle use not full. The oil shell builds that is the closest to the factory oil spec's for diesel tractors is Rimula.

 

[LouNY]

I see a lot of people always raving about shell rotella oil for their diesel tractors. Yes it has shown success in tractor trailers for longevity of engines and that is great. I have never seen a tractor trailer or large truck that runs on the governor like tractors do.. Tractor trailers are rated at 1/3 throttle use not full. The oil shell builds that is the closest to the factory oil spec's for diesel tractors is Rimula.

I was under the impression that Rimula was Shells European brand as Rotella is for the US,
also if you go to Shells website and go to business and check for their recommended oils you will usually find T6 as recommended premium and T4 as meeting the manufactures specs (minimum)