Speaking on grounding, could a person increase the amount of ground they are getting if they had a ground wire attached to a metal goat fence and metal t posts? Would a hundred t posts spread out over a large area, but only a foot or two in the ground, all connected with the wire fence, accomplish anything?
Not much. But some of it would depend on the soil they are driven in. Dry sandy soil, not much. Wet all the time swamp. Probably would help quit a bit.
With all do respect I'll make the counterpoint argument: "Why Jane, you ignorant ****!" (No, no, no, just joking. -Old SNL reference
sorry
).
While soil, and moisture content does make a big difference, the more surface area of your ground electrode system (ground rod, etc...) that is in contact with the earth, especially over a wider area, the more effective the ground system is (i.e. the more charge that the earth will "absorb", while minimizing the voltage rise on the ground system (and things connected to it: electronics, etc..).
One can almost think of lightning as water in a fire hose and ground electrodes (rods, etc..) as a perforated pipe, and the earth as a sponge.
There's a big difference in putting all the charge into one 8'-3/4" ground rod, versus into many rods, versus running it into a buried perforated pipe for 100's of feet (i.e. a buried bare conductor or an actual water pipe). Often when I design grounding for a large building I'll bond the buildings ground system (and lightning system if it has one) with rebar in the footings, with the steel columns, with utility water pipes (that may run for miles, like your sheep fence), AND have a buried bare copper wire loop that circles the building. The effective earth contact area of this grid is 1000's of times more than (2) 8'x3/4"' ground rods.
However, you've just made a larger target for lightning; that is a low resistant path now spread out over acres, or extends the ground (earth) higher into the sky, and is easier to travel on than air or wood and is also connected to your electrical systems ground (receptacles, etc....). However the point is that the lightning travels on YOUR least resistive path and doesn't ignite the wood or flash over to something you don't want it to.
Lightning will take the least resistant path, so if it is "on" (raises the voltage of) your ground system and the ground rod(s) can't handle it, the voltage will raise to the point it will overwhelm and jump across the "minimal insulation" in your electronics, frying them trying to find another way. Conversely if it comes in on the power or communication lines, it will jump (in your electronics or panel) to your ground, and fry them. This is what surge protectors block ("block" is not appropriate word, as they actually "short" the excess voltage to ground.)
Most professionals recommend a multitier surge protection approach. A main panel surge arrestor, in addition to individual end user protection. There's also many different styles and levels of protection at each location. Some are just one-shot devices.
Something else to understand: Let's say lighting hits a tree and the ground at the base of tree goes to 10,000 volts, say the ground 10' away is 7000 volts, say 15' is 5000 volts, etc... (note: here voltage is only a comparison to something unaffected, far away.) If your standing 10' from tree with your feet together, you may be a "bird on the wire" and not get electrocuted. However if you're a cow or a horse with its feet 5 feet apart across (7000-5000=) 2000 volts, that's going to be a problem.
