2166 messin up again $&%$#*%

[Dennisfly]

I see I posted to this thread in 2005 (#10) regarding a fuel filter. I still have the 2166 and it recently started vapor locking after about 30 minutes. It would start surging and losing power, and I could hear the fuel boiling in the carburetor after I shut it down. It seemed like the exhaust noise was slightly louder so I looked for an exhaust leak that could be overheating the engine compartment. To access the muffler I had to remove the hood, grill, exhaust pipe and there are three studs that hold the muffler to the frame. Once that is removed, the muffler comes out but it is encased in a metal shroud. You must drill out 6 pop rivets to remove the shroud.

The muffler has a crimped seam that is spot welded on two sides but not on the other two. One of the unwelded seams had popped out and there was a 1/4 inch by 1 1/2 inch gap leaking exhaust gas. I Popped the seam back together and spot welded it, reassembled and the problem was solved.

I think this was caused by a back fire. When the engine is hot, you must put the throttle full forward as you turn off the key or it will backfire. I usually do this but once in a while I forget. I'm told that using this procedure makes the gasses in the muffler too rich to backfire. It does work if you remember to do it!

 

[Dave M7040]

I see I posted to this thread in 2005 (#10) regarding a fuel filter. I still have the 2166 and it recently started vapor locking after about 30 minutes. It would start surging and losing power, and I could hear the fuel boiling in the carburetor after I shut it down. It seemed like the exhaust noise was slightly louder so I looked for an exhaust leak that could be overheating the engine compartment. To access the muffler I had to remove the hood, grill, exhaust pipe and there are three studs that hold the muffler to the frame. Once that is removed, the muffler comes out but it is encased in a metal shroud. You must drill out 6 pop rivets to remove the shroud.

The muffler has a crimped seam that is spot welded on two sides but not on the other two. One of the unwelded seams had popped out and there was a 1/4 inch by 1 1/2 inch gap leaking exhaust gas. I Popped the seam back together and spot welded it, reassembled and the problem was solved.

I think this was caused by a back fire. When the engine is hot, you must put the throttle full forward as you turn off the key or it will backfire. I usually do this but once in a while I forget. I'm told that using this procedure makes the gasses in the muffler too rich to backfire. It does work if you remember to do it!

Why the throttle needs to be at high speed is that there is a solenoid on the carb that blocks the main fuel high speed passage when the key is turned off.
This way there is no fuel to backfire rather than too rich to backfire.

If the throttle is only partially open, there are fuel delivery passages which continue to deliver fuel after the key is shut off and then you get the backfire.

Dave M7040

 

[rau2009sch]

My Cub Cadet GT 2550 got so hot I removed that stupid plastic hood and grill that trapped and recirculated all the heat. Removed the goofy headlights that got all fogged up and dirty. Removed the shocks that let the hood fall down. I installed a simple metal hood over the engine, keeps the rain off. Stuck on some LED lights. This solves all problems, allows free air circulation all around. Problem solved.

 

[rau2009sch]

Wanna see a picture of how I fixed my GT 2550? G on line, enter in CUB CADET GT 2550, and click images. That hood is from a Ferguson TO tractor salvage yard. Works perfectly, looks retro.