Weed Killer?

[quasi]

I'm looking for a "one and done" weed killer. To be more precise, I'm looking for a persistent broad spectrum vegetation control. Something between scorched earth and Agent Orange. Anyone have a suggestion of a product they've used successfully?

Thanx,

Jim

 

[jeff9366]

Herbicides are regional.

Your LOCATION should be part of your T-B-N PROFILE.

Gordon's Barrier is sold at Tractor Supply Company. Gordon's Barrier is sold to prevent vegetation growth under fence lines for at least one year. Be vary cautious applying over tree root zones.

 

[Jstpssng]

Black plastic works well. Avoid the clear, as it lets light in like a greenhouse and the weeds thrive. Kerosene will do what you ask for on a larger area, just don't use it near your well.

 

[bigdeano]

Salt will work, but will wash away if you're in an area with a lot of precipitation.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Product called Mohave or Sahara. Add gly and surfactant. Will sterilize the ground for up to a year or longer depending on annual precipitation. Will turn the ground back to Dirt. 1lb per 10 gallons of water IIRCkk

Brett

 

[super55]

pramitol 25e is the strongest herbicide you can probably get. They sell it at TSC. Nothing will grow there for at least a year and cognizant where runoff is going to head. Spray too heavy and you will have a perfect dead space of where your runoff goes.

 

[freedomlives]

Sodium chlorate? Sodium chlorate

Used to be sold in Czechoslovakia under the brand Travex, now banned in the EU for use as an herbicide (and access restricted because it is an oxidiser, aka fun chemical). But reading the above, it has dangers in handling and acute toxicity if ingested, but I think as it starts to come out the various problems with Glyphosphate, a case could be made for use of herbicides that present a high acute toxicity but apparently low chronic one.

But what exactly are you trying to rid of weeds? The black plastic would be an option under fence lines, which I'm thinking about under where I'm putting electric fence-- a thin strip to keep weeds growing up to the wires.

 

[goeduck]

I'm looking for a "one and done" weed killer. To be more precise, I'm looking for a persistent broad spectrum vegetation control. Something between scorched earth and Agent Orange. Anyone have a suggestion of a product they've used successfully?

Thanx,

Jim

Something between scorched earth and agent orange is going to have consequences. Maybe post some more specifics of your situation in case there is a less caustic solution.

 

[radios1]

Chlorine works good too, it kills all DNA, and it dissipates quickly, so you can grow what you want in the area in at most a week.. it works great for tree stumps too, drill some holes in the stump, pour in chlorine, cover it, and a week later, the stump is removable by hand!..

 

[jaxs]

Chlorine works good too, it kills all DNA, it works great for tree stumps too, drill some holes in the stump, pour in chlorine, cover it, and a week later, the stump is removable by hand!..

One week later???? Remove it by hand?

 

[WM75Guy]

I use Mohave mixed with Roundup for my riding arena. Quick kill and nothing grows for a year. Mohave is expensive, $60 per 5 pounds. The arena takes 4 pounds of Mohave and 1 gallon of Roundup. I mix everything in 25 gallons on my little towed sprayer. I also spray the iron ore driveway with the same mix.

 

[radios1]

One week later???? Remove it by hand?

as in lift it up out of the ground by hand, because the roots have rotted away..

 

[aczlan]

as in lift it up out of the ground by hand, because the roots have rotted away..

Hmmm, I have a gallon of pool shock and a willow tree that partly fell down a while back. Perhaps I will have to try that...

Aaron Z

 

[newbury]

Chlorine works good too, it kills all DNA, and it dissipates quickly, so you can grow what you want in the area in at most a week.. it works great for tree stumps too, drill some holes in the stump, pour in chlorine, cover it, and a week later, the stump is removable by hand!..

as in lift it up out of the ground by hand, because the roots have rotted away..

Hmmm, I have a gallon of pool shock and a willow tree that partly fell down a while back. Perhaps I will have to try that...

Aaron Z

Aaron - Be sure to show us pictures, I've some maple trees that are about 1 foot DBH that are due to be cut down. If 1 week later the stumps could be removable by hand it would save a lot of labor.

 

[Jstpssng]

Aaron - Be sure to show us pictures, I've some maple trees that are about 1 foot DBH that are due to be cut down. If 1 week later the stumps could be removable by hand it would save a lot of labor.

Yes, I also would like to see some pictures. I have a 32" spruce stump from a tree that I cut down about 14 years ago that's right where I would like to pile up snow. I was going to turn it into a project with my backhoe, but that sounds like a lot less work.

 

[goeduck]

Aaron - Be sure to show us pictures, I've some maple trees that are about 1 foot DBH that are due to be cut down. If 1 week later the stumps could be removable by hand it would save a lot of labor.

I would be interested as well. I have a dozen or so Big Leaf Maples that I took down around the house and have been picking the shoots off every week until I rent a grinder. It would be nice not to have to rent it. Those BLMs are survivors, they shoot like crazy.

 

[rgr33]

I’m not one to play the role of safety police, but hope you wear protective gear, especially breathing apparatus if you are spraying “scorched earth” chemicals.

Not the time to cut corners when using that stuff.

 

[hslogger]

I’m not one to play the role of safety police, but hope you wear protective gear, especially breathing apparatus if you are spraying “scorched earth” chemicals.

Not the time to cut corners when using that stuff.

What he said;-}

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Chlorine? That stuff is very dangerous..... Sodium Chlorate is also dangerous and is only a contact killer, meaning it does not have any residual properties.

Also, please always read and follow the label before applying any pesticide. I always figured the chemical manufacturers spend millions of dollars doing research before bringing products to market, so why should I do experiment with them? The label will tell you how to best use any pesticide.

Having said that, something with the active ingredient 'Imazypyr' is pretty good for long term weed control. Arsenal is one such product and is probably available at places like Tractor Supply or Ranch Outlet. http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld746012.pdf

Another good product would be something with both Imazypyr and Diuron. Mojave 70EG has both of these in it. https://www.domyown.com/msds/Mojave_70EG_LABEL.pdf

And, as someone mentioned, any product that will give long term weed control, also has a greater potential to move in the soil to 'off target' plants. This means, don't apply these products 'uphill' of desirable trees, or you may kill them too, especially in heavy rainfall areas.

 

[oldballs]

IIRC "chlorine" is a gas. Could somebody be more specific....e.g. Clorox.....sodium hypochlorite???