Baumalight Brushcutt CP560

[ericm979]

I ran over a nail with one of my Branson's front tires this winter. I took the wheel into the local tire place and they charged me $25 or so to patch it from the inside. A rear tire would be a different story, especially since mine are filled with Rimguard.

 

[BufordBoone]

What does it cost to fix a flat on a tractor, just out of curiosity? Seems like that could be quite an operation, especially with loaded tires (which I have).

My repairs have been about $210 each time. My tires are not loaded with liquid. I've thought about it but would just increase the cost every time I got a flat and I've never felt the need for more weight.

I handle front tires but the rear tires are a whole nother matter.

 

[JBjunior]

I am wondering how well this will work with my L35. I have 43 acres, most still wooded but I am in no hurry to do much as I like having the trees and only do a little at a time. Looking at medium duty rotary cutters, possibly heavy duty/right of way, but this seems cool too.

 

[Lowcountry Rebel]

it sure would be nice if you could put this on the front of a tractor, wouldn't have to turn around to see what you are doing

 

[Overtaxed]

I am wondering how well this will work with my L35. I have 43 acres, most still wooded but I am in no hurry to do much as I like having the trees and only do a little at a time. Looking at medium duty rotary cutters, possibly heavy duty/right of way, but this seems cool too.

You should probably reach out to Baumalight, it's a cat 2 implement, so the first question will be, can your tractor lift it? Beyond that, honestly, I think HP is just basically speed with this cutter. If you can lift it, you can use it, just will have to go slower. It's all about getting those blades up to speed, once they are spinning, actually impacting a tree to cut it puts almost no load on the tractor. Grinding it up, like you see me do in the video, puts some load on my tractor, but it's nowhere near starved for power. Now, if you put it in the dirt, you'll feel the power, for sure. That lugs the tractor mightily. But actually using it for what it's intended for (IE, not a rotary style rototiller), I'd think you would be OK with less HP than I have (60, ~45 or so at the PTO). Let me put it this way, I can cut faster than I can position by a pretty significant margin doing what I'm doing. Now, if you're just going dead straight and eating trees as fast as you can, yeah, that will become HP limited, but I also can't think of many situations where you'd be able to do that (maybe a very grown up right of way?). For clearing underbrush, you'll spend as much time with nothing under the blades as you do actually cutting a tree, plenty of time to recover the RPMs for the tractor and machine.

it sure would be nice if you could put this on the front of a tractor, wouldn't have to turn around to see what you are doing

I think that is the case with a solid 50% of my implements. I wish a 3pt/PTO in the front was more common, there are a lot of tools that would work better that way. This this would be beyond awesome if I could hook it up in the front on my FEL! Of course, then I'd need hydraulics to run it, which I could get from a PTO in the back, but it would be much more expensive. If my tractor just had a front 3PT and PTO, I'd use it at least a significant minority of the time; would be very useful.

 

[JBjunior]

You should probably reach out to Baumalight, it's a cat 2 implement, so the first question will be, can your tractor lift it? Beyond that, honestly, I think HP is just basically speed with this cutter. If you can lift it, you can use it, just will have to go slower. It's all about getting those blades up to speed, once they are spinning, actually impacting a tree to cut it puts almost no load on the tractor. Grinding it up, like you see me do in the video, puts some load on my tractor, but it's nowhere near starved for power. Now, if you put it in the dirt, you'll feel the power, for sure. That lugs the tractor mightily. But actually using it for what it's intended for (IE, not a rotary style rototiller), I'd think you would be OK with less HP than I have (60, ~45 or so at the PTO). Let me put it this way, I can cut faster than I can position by a pretty significant margin doing what I'm doing. Now, if you're just going dead straight and eating trees as fast as you can, yeah, that will become HP limited, but I also can't think of many situations where you'd be able to do that (maybe a very grown up right of way?). For clearing underbrush, you'll spend as much time with nothing under the blades as you do actually cutting a tree, plenty of time to recover the RPMs for the tractor and machine.



I think that is the case with a solid 50% of my implements. I wish a 3pt/PTO in the front was more common, there are a lot of tools that would work better that way. This this would be beyond awesome if I could hook it up in the front on my FEL! Of course, then I'd need hydraulics to run it, which I could get from a PTO in the back, but it would be much more expensive. If my tractor just had a front 3PT and PTO, I'd use it at least a significant minority of the time; would be very useful.

The L35 is/was Kubota's industrial backhoe model. The 3 pt lift capacity is 2300+ lbs and it seems this machine weighs about 1600 lbs so I don't think that would be an issue.

 

[Overtaxed]

The L35 is/was Kubota's industrial backhoe model. The 3 pt lift capacity is 2300+ lbs and it seems this machine weighs about 1600 lbs so I don't think that would be an issue.

If that's the case, I can't see why it wouldn't work for you, even at the bottom end of the HP scale. This thing works 90% by speed/centrifugal force, you get those blades and pan spinning, and ease your way into a tree, you don't even hear it/feel it in the tractor RPMs as you make contact. Now, when it "sucks in" the tree, that does impact the RPMs a bit, but again, as long as you go slow, I can't see it not working for you. Try not to hit too much dirt, that's what really slows it down!

To give you a comparison, I have an EA 72" rotary cutter that I use on some fields, cutting waist high grass with that rotary puts a whole lot more load on the engine than the Brushcutt does munching slowly through trees. Now, if I were to back up to stand a trees and mash the hydro pedal in reverse, I'm sure I could change that situation, but most people aren't going to use this thing that way; it has plenty of time to build up momentum again for me between trees.

IMHO, you'll be fine. You might still want to reach out to Baumalight, they are very responsive, and ask them. But I think it'll work for you.

 

[lt190b]

Overtaxed, have you tried your cutter on downed branches or maybe a pile of limbs?

 

[Overtaxed]

Overtaxed, have you tried your cutter on downed branches or maybe a pile of limbs?

I haven't, other than what you see in the videos, cutting a tree down and then sucking that up. Kind of similar to a downed branch. What do you want to do with it, eat you way through a bunch of branches that are in a pile? If so, I'm pretty sure it will do it, but something with a closed back might actually be better for that, put the hog over it, lower it down, and let it munch its way through. The real "magic" of this thing is the way it cuts through trees and can take them down so easily. If you have that use case as well, I'd think this would be a good choice. If you're just trying to eat up things on the ground, I would also look at (and ask for other opinions) on a heavy duty brush hog that can take whatever branch size you're looking to eat up. Or a chipper, which will do a much, much better job than any kind of cutter in turning branches into mulch. The Brushcutt is great, but it doesn't eat down "mulch", it's more like "sticks and twigs" that are left after I use it. That's the big difference between this and a mulcher, a mulcher will eat all the way to the ground and it'll turn everything into smaller chips. Still not as small or nice as a wood chipper though, for downed branches, unless you're dealing with a bramble or acres of it, I'd think a chipper would be the right tool.

 

[Coyote machine]

I suspect you're taking out almost all green woody plants/trees, not deadwood, correct? It seems the momentum you build with the heavy disc with the double edged blades make the chipping and then cutting work as a result of force tearing into the tree/brush, whatever the blades encounter? The undercarriage and sidewalls shown in the manufacturer's pic seem very beefy to withstand the 'shock factor' a brush hog is NOT built to take. Altogether it seems that backing up is less fun than going forward could be. I suspect some of that is a result of potential liability concerns on the manufacturer's part since the cutter throws big enough pieces far enough to do damage to bystanders, even ones supposedly far enough out of 'range' to not get hit.
How'd you do the first drone video with the drone stationary?
Good report and details; enjoy that beast!:thumbsup: