Yanmar 2000BD Not started for 2 years

[bookman51]

Walmart fram PH3593A been using them for almost 10yrs.... and yes that is the fuel filter # sorry about that. Been awhile and was digging stuff up!!!

Thanks very much. Larry

 

[normde2001]

This evening I took the battery out to charge it. After two years it still have some juice but water in it is low. In addition to the bucket on the tractor, there is small blade, a small box blade, and a middle buster/subsoiler. I think the two blades look like only 4 foot blades. The hour meter has about 800 hours on it, but I have to think the tractor has more hours than that since being built in 1979. No roll bar. In looking, the implements would run over $1,000 when new, and they look hardly worn. The worst part of the tractor is cracks in between the lugs on the rear tires.

I am going to change the fuel filter once a get a new fuel filter and bled the fuel line. I may change the oil and take out the old diesel and then see what happens. I hope the battery charges up okay. Thanks for all the help.

Assuming you have the 0000.0 hour meter, 800 hours must be right unless it has 10800.0 hours. Being unfamiliar with the tractor I would do as little as possible before trying it, then fix any problems. My diesel lasts for years with no problem.

 

[bookman51]

Assuming you have the 0000.0 hour meter, 800 hours must be right unless it has 10800.0 hours. Being unfamiliar with the tractor I would do as little as possible before trying it, then fix any problems. My diesel lasts for years with no problem.

I e-mailed the Hoye Tractor Parts folks and that is essentially the same advise they gave me. No exactly their words, but the implication is do not mess up the tractor trying to fix a nonexistent problem. I am unfamiliar with diesel but they said (and as you suggested) that two years is not a very long time. The battery seemed to charge up okay (knock on wood). Anyway, it takes a load now, but I will see later in the day or tomorrow if it holds. Maybe (again knock on wood), I can get it started without much expense to the owner. Thanks a bunch.

 

[Coyote machine]

When you go to start it, only crank the starter for about 10 seconds at a time, otherwise you can overheat the starter and drain the battery's power quicker than short bursts on the start circuit. Don't rev it up fast either since it has been dry for 2 years, let it run at a lower idle before giving it any amount of throttle. Slow and easy as she comes back alive...

 

[bookman51]

When you go to start it, only crank the starter for about 10 seconds at a time, otherwise you can overheat the starter and drain the battery's power quicker than short bursts on the start circuit. Don't rev it up fast either since it has been dry for 2 years, let it run at a lower idle before giving it any amount of throttle. Slow and easy as she comes back alive...

Good advice and thanks very much.

 

[Coyote machine]

Post some pics of the tractor in this thread, and realize there is a equipment for sale section on TBN, just search through the forums to find it.

 

[mercdv]

Remember, you have no idea if the previous owner treated his diesel with a stabilizer or not. Also, if the tank was not kept full then moisture can get in the fuel quickly. That is my main concern about the fuel. This is coming from personal experience with a tractor that was parked for a couple years with a 1/4 full tank with TREATED diesel. The fuel had water in it from tank condensation and the fuel supply had gummed up. That is why I always recommend starting with fresh fuel after a tractor has been parked for 2 or more years. I know some people disagree with me one this one but draining the tank and using fresh fuel is a really easy step so why not do it?

 

[California]

A couple of points: These have a compression release that lets you crank freely until oil pressure comes up. With 2 years out of service, I would crank with compression released, throttle closed, until well after the oil pressure light goes out. This isn't a heavy load on the starter with no compression. Then let the starter cool, then the following technique:
1/3 throttle, crank a moment with compression released then as cranking rpm reaches max, drop the compression release and let the inertia of the already-turning flywheel assist the starter motor. Keep cranking the starter if the engine is stumbling to life and won't run on its own. Immediately close the throttle (forward) so it won't exceed 1000 rpm idle as soon as it fires off.

The advice already posted is perfect for a diesel that hasn't been started for years but if this was used and maintained until 2 years ago I think Norm's advice is more relevant, it should start right up and resume service where it left off without any special measures. Maybe if it wsn't run much then pull the filter bowl to look for algae crud or water, and open the shutoff to let a sample of fuel drain into a jar to look for crud or water, but I would be a little surprised if you find anything - assuming the tractor was in normal service that recently.

There's only one gotcha on these: follow the bleeding procedure Hoye specified! No need to loosen the injector lines. Just bleed at the bleeder screws at the filter inlet, outlet, then down at the fuel pump - separately, in that sequence, that's all there is to it.

 

[normde2001]

. . . . . or, check the oil and fire it up. If no start, why not?

 

[clemsonfor]

It will be fine. New battery and start it up. Deisel will be good. Tires fine. And all ym2000 tractors are grey models ;-)

I see you probably already know this now there 2 pages of replies.