adding hinge point to ROPS

[Groo]

My new place has tons of garage space, but nothing with a high door, so if I get something with fixed ROPS, I will likely have to modify it.

I would assume, put the hinge point up as high as practical will be the safest. then maybe 3/8" ears and plates (dependent on weight rating of course)to make the hinge and pint to lock?

Anything to avoid? anything else to take into account?

end caps at the cuts?

 

[oosik]

You know - I totally agree with Jeff. Show your location and tractor. I get tired of answering a question only to have the OP reply that it couldn't be possible because he lives over there or has a type tractor that the suggestion would never work on. Either join with us or do not.

 

[jeff9366]

Your tractor model should be part of your T-B-N PROFILE, so it appears with every post you author.

This is a TRACTOR forum!

Member since November 2008 with 782 posts, no tractor data, no location. It should be obvious in participating here how important these two data bits are to useful advice.

Either join with us or do not.

 

[Clint S]

The largest consensus here, especially from the safety police, will be to not do it because it will alter the integrity of your super high tech, over engineered ROPS and it will. That said there are plenty out there pick a design that you can do and do it if you have the skills

 

[rgr33]

Not to pile on here, but I agree with Jeff and oosik, more info is helpful in addressing most issues.

Regarding the ROPS, I wonder if altering your current device might be an issue in the event of a serious accident in the future. You know, insurance companies and lawyers are always looking for an excuse to mitigate damages.
I think I would just purchase a new folding ROPS, and cya.

 

[Oldoak]

The largest consensus here, especially from the safety police, will be to not do it because it will alter the integrity of your super high tech, over engineered ROPS and it will. That said there are plenty out there pick a design that you can do and do it if you have the skills

I agree, Clint and I'm quite surprised the first reply didn't come from a "self appointed safety officer" jumping all over it.

As far as a person identifying their location, what does their location have to do with modifying a ROPs? Unnecessary! A make and model of their tractor called out in their post would have been enough. Again, not absolutely necessary in their to be entered in their profile.

 

[dfkrug]

The largest consensus here, especially from the safety police, will be to not do it
because it will alter the integrity of your super high tech, over engineered ROPS and it will.

Not to split hairs, but many of us on TBN think it is perfectly OK to modify your ROPS. The term 'consensus'
means agreement, according to the dictionary, except in finance, where it has come to mean, 'average'.

Many many ROPS bars out there that have the folding option are used all the time with the ROPS in the down
and useless position. I have yet to hear of a lawsuit against a tractor maker for providing that option. There
WAS a lawsuit against a car maker for NOT providing airbags, back when they were optional. So, be warned.

To the OP: I shortened my foldable ROPS many years ago so I could park inside my workshop which only has
an 8-foot door. My general rule is to use steel that is as thick or thicker than the original ROPS bar. This is not
an airplane, so you ARE allowed to change things. Or even buy a tractor with no ROPS at all.

(I have just added a new machine to my profile, BTW.)

 

[/pine]

Based on many previous threads on the topic of altering a ROP structure...Altering the structure (including drilling the smallest of holes to mount light bars etc...) voids any warranty and removes any liability from the manufacturer...

 

[LD48750]

My new place has tons of garage space, but nothing with a high door, so if I get something with fixed ROPS, I will likely have to modify it.

I'm guessing that this means you don't have a tractor that has a ROPS on it now.
If it concerns you, just buy one WITH a folding ROPS.

I would assume, put the hinge point up as high as practical will be the safest. then maybe 3/8" ears and plates (dependent on weight rating of course)to make the hinge and pint to lock?

Anything to avoid? anything else to take into account?

end caps at the cuts?

Myself... the first two tractors I owned didn't have a ROPS.
The last one I got did.
First time out I hit more then one tree & didn't roll the tractor on any of the hills or in the swamp.
Within the first month I CUT IT OFF and everything has been just fine ever since.

Three tractors in use for 30+ years here & no roll overs.
Do what you think is best, safety police be damned.

 

[davrow]

Your tractor model should be part of your T-B-N PROFILE, so it appears with every post you author.

Maybe he added the bit about NOT HAVING THE TRACTOR YET later? It is there by the time I found the thread.

...so if I get something with fixed ROPS, I will likely have to modify it.

 

[Billrog]

Fits now .

 

[pmsmechanic]

View attachment 560636View attachment 560637
Fits now .

I love it! It's good to see someone post a well thought out change when a manufacturer doesn't make something that works for you.

The local dealer used to take their John Deere 4X00's/4X10's to the welding shop to have a hinge welded into the roll bar if that's what the customer wanted.

 

[/pine]

I love it! It's good to see someone post a well thought out change when a manufacturer doesn't make something that works for you.

The local dealer used to take their John Deere 4X00's/4X10's to the welding shop to have a hinge welded into the roll bar if that's what the customer wanted.

Anyone that has modified their ROP structure could be faced with a reduced resale value IMO...just sayin...!

 

[fried1765]

Anyone that has modified their ROP structure could be faced with a reduced resale value IMO...just sayin...!

Seems like resale paranoia to me.
If the ROPS needs to be modified for owner convenience ......just DO IT!
Looks like Billrog did a high quality modification!

 

[Oldoak]

Seems like resale paranoia to me.
If the ROPS needs to be modified for owner convenience ......just DO IT!
Looks like Billrog did a high quality modification!

Yep, I'm surprised how much of that exists here on TBN. Of course some people may trade tractors as often as they do autos?

When you think about it, is it worth inconveniencing yourself for years just because you may or may not loose a few trade-in dollars way in the future? I for one, always purchase what I want, if I can afford it, and modify it to what suits me best at the time, not what I think someone else may want if/when I sell it in the future.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've said this before on this topic, but I think they make them (ROPS) so tall is to prevent the machine (in most roll over's) from rolling over rather than just "laying over" on the side. Clearly several feet of ROPS clearance above the seated operator provides no additional protection.
Cut, weld & drill all you like with the above mentioned points in all the posts in mind. This topic always brings up the seat belt question next.

 

[aczlan]

I've said this before on this topic, but I think they make them (ROPS) so tall is to prevent the machine (in most roll over's) from rolling over rather than just "laying over" on the side.

That is one reason, I think there is a second one as well.

Clearly several feet of ROPS clearance above the seated operator provides no additional protection.

Not quite. If you look, the crush zone when you roll over goes from the top of the roll bar forward and down to the top of the front of the engine.
Not all tractors are equipped with roll bars or front brush guards, so they can't include that in their calculations.
That is why the roll bar has to be so high on some tractors.

Aaron Z

 

[dragoneggs]

That is one reason, I think there is a second one as well.

Not quite. If you look, the crush zone when you roll over goes from the top of the roll bar forward and down to the top of the front of the engine.
Not all tractors are equipped with roll bars or front brush guards, so they can't include that in their calculations.
That is why the roll bar has to be so high on some tractors.

Aaron Z

Exactly... this is why we pay engineers to design things that we depend on... not just for work but for life. Hack away on your ROPS. I'm sure you figured out all the OEM design requirements, most coming from years of trial and error. My airplane wings are too long to fit in my hanger... let me shorten them a bit... I know I can still get enough lift to get it in the air.

 

[PILOON]

Here is my 2 cents.
From my aviation background I can suggest what I'd consider a safe mod as there exist approved methods of splicing tubing.

The method is to use an insert method, that is a smaller tube that fits snuggly.
You'd want about 3-4" to protrude into both sides of the cut.
The top 1/2 would be permantly affixed (weld or bolted) and the lower simply pinned using 3/16" pin or bolt. (reasoning being that you'd not want the top portion to drop off while the tractor is inverting.)

I'd also suggest that the insert tube be a gauge or 2 thicker walled.

Naturally this is 'at your risk' as I have not compiled any tests or engineering analysis.

 

[Groo]

For those that actually read the original post and gave an answer; thanks. I won't be shortening ROPS as I sit very tall.

For those that might find this thread in a search and make it this far; the hinge point would seam to be chosen by the OEMs to keep the tractor from flipping over backwards when pinned in the low position.

To the rest of you; **** right off.