Sea Foam

[shooterdon]

That's why you mix 50/50 #1 and #2 fuel up there in very cold weather. That does not require any additive.

It seems so much easier, at least in my situation, to add the antigel. YMMV

 

[atsah]

They claim that it October they mix "winter" fuel so that the fuel wont gel. The first winter I was here in 2005 I was moving snow at 5F, I got to the end of my driveway and the tractor would only idle, the fuel filter was wrecked, it gelled up, from that point on I added Lucus to my fuel, never happened again and I have used the tractor down to -20F moving snow banks.. As I have said I'm not an additive guy but antigel is needed is "some" parts of the country in the winter..

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I have read where some use Sea Foam to clean injectors? do any of you do this by adding it to the fuel? If so does it work. Also read where it can be added to the oil before you change the oil for a good clean up? Let me kknow your thoughts on this and if you have done this to your diesel Engine. Thanks, Eddie

Eddie I have used a lot of Sea Foam over the past 10 years. I have used it in the fuel of 4 old school diesel tractors and other to make them smoke a bit I have not realized any increased performance personally.

I use it sometimes in all kinds of crank cases especially getting used stuff with dirty crankcases maybe 30 minutes before changing the engine oil but I do not work them hard because in some cases I have seen a drop in oil pressure. Because it is cheaper and designed to be run full time up to a ratio of 20% in engines I will dump in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) like 30 minutes before I shut down for an oil change.

For the fuel in gas engines I have found SeaFoam to be a great performance aid over the years.

My most awesome Sea Foam results comes with cleaning up of automatic transmission valve bodies/servos. I like to run it 200-300 miles then remove most of the ATF by letting the transmission pump out the old ATF through the exit line going to the transmission cooler. That is called a 'bucket flush' and is done in the driveway often if you want to read up on that but beware of everything you read or hear.

Since I started to use Archoil AR9100 in all of our engines they are self flushing for the most part it seems after a few oil changes. Last year I started testing in differentials and automatic transmissions. I have about 15K on the 4 speed automatic in the 2010 Subaru Forester and about a 1000 miles on the 2010 Ford F150 with the 205K mile 6R80 transmission and so far so good. I use it at the rate on the container label of the gallon jugs that I buy since we run through a lot of it each year.

While Archoil makes additives for diesel fuel that gets high marks the AR9100 is designed to be used in oils NOT fuel. My early reading on Archoil was about its use in million dollar equipment for the engines and gear boxes and transmissions.

Again I have not seen any performance gains in diesel engines using SeaFoam but it is an awesome cleaner gas fuel systems in my experience. Some diesel owners fill new fuel filters with Sea Foam hoping to clean injectors I have read but none of our diesels have fuel filters that can be prefilled very well.

Get on some of the pick up truck diesel forms because some are performance minded.

 

[Fallon]

#1 diesel is closer to kerosene than #2. It gells at a lower tempature. #1 has more power & lubrication as some compounds havent been filtered or distilled out yet.

Generally you want #2 for most purposes, unless you need cold weather performance of #1.

Personally I wait until fall to get my 300 gallon tank filled. Should be a winter blend at that point (some #1 mixed into the #2). But I still add in Piwer Service white bottle. It ends up being under a penny per gallon, which I consider very cheap insurance for lubrication & not having to walk home in the cold.

 

[JWR]

Let me see if I can get this across to you and it may not be possible you being an engineer and all.. If you don't add antigel in the winter were I live your engine will not run, period..

Many things are not possible, me being an engineer and all ! Ask my wife !! I have to totally disagree atsah. (There have been many threads on this issue.) No matter where you live and no matter what my background is, a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2 diesel fuel will cure any potential gelling problems you may have without use of additives. That method is used more than any other to prevent fuel from gelling. I learned it from dozer operators in northern Vermont. Ask your own local heavy equipment operators.

In the event that neither they nor I can "get it across to you," see Cold Weather Fuel Issues: The Safe Answer is Gelling | Fleet Owner where it says:

All of this can be attributed to poor maintenance ... as well as a poor understanding of fuel and poor communication with your fuel supplier. Some believe everything can be solved with pour depressants and additives. But actually there is a point you need kerosene. And if you are buying fuel at a truck stop, it may be treated with additives, but in most cases not blended. Kerosene is expensive and most truck stops choose not to blend because fleets do not want to pay for gel insurance.

People way up in the northern US and Canada do not have any issues with fuel. They have figured our how to maintain their fuel below ground, above ground and most important on the ground. And you will see plenty of signs for KERO. What a surprise.

...

Most reports I have seen show that a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2 yield a gel point around 36 below zero F. Roughly the same as your antifreeze mix in the radiator. That sets a practical lower temp limit that will make you forget gelling.

I will grant you that using additives can be of value. It is absolutely NOT required.

 

[JWR]

#1 diesel is closer to kerosene than #2. It gells at a lower tempature. #1 has more power & lubrication as some compounds havent been filtered or distilled out yet.

Generally you want #2 for most purposes, unless you need cold weather performance of #1.

Personally I wait until fall to get my 300 gallon tank filled. Should be a winter blend at that point (some #1 mixed into the #2). But I still add in Piwer Service white bottle. It ends up being under a penny per gallon, which I consider very cheap insurance for lubrication & not having to walk home in the cold.

Fallon -- I agree and your "annual business plan for fuel" makes good sense, obviously arrived at thru the school of hard knocks and experience. I'm sure you meant to say " #2 has more power and lubrication ..." rather than #1. I'm reasonably sure that #1 diesel is not just closer to, but really is, the same thing as kerosene.

 

[atsah]

Many things are not possible, me being an engineer and all ! Ask my wife !! I have to totally disagree atsah. (There have been many threads on this issue.) No matter where you live and no matter what my background is, a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2 diesel fuel will cure any potential gelling problems you may have without use of additives. That method is used more than any other to prevent fuel from gelling. I learned it from dozer operators in northern Vermont. Ask your own local heavy equipment operators.

In the event that neither they nor I can "get it across to you," see Cold Weather Fuel Issues: The Safe Answer is Gelling | Fleet Owner where it says:

All of this can be attributed to poor maintenance ... as well as a poor understanding of fuel and poor communication with your fuel supplier. Some believe everything can be solved with pour depressants and additives. But actually there is a point you need kerosene. And if you are buying fuel at a truck stop, it may be treated with additives, but in most cases not blended. Kerosene is expensive and most truck stops choose not to blend because fleets do not want to pay for gel insurance.

People way up in the northern US and Canada do not have any issues with fuel. They have figured our how to maintain their fuel below ground, above ground and most important on the ground. And you will see plenty of signs for KERO. What a surprise.

...

Most reports I have seen show that a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2 yield a gel point around 36 below zero F. Roughly the same as your antifreeze mix in the radiator. That sets a practical lower temp limit that will make you forget gelling.

I will grant you that using additives can be of value. It is absolutely NOT required.

Some do use kerosene but most don't around here, my brother IS a heavy equipment operator and they use power service.. I'm not going to argue with you, we use what we use were I live. This debate had been debated to death many times. People use different things that make sense financially for them..

 

[Ford850]

The bottom line is there are 2 options to fight cold weather. You can either use blended fuel (either blended by the supplier or by you), or you can add additional additives (either treated by the supplier or by you). The advantage of the additive option is that you don't need to have both fuel types on hand. With additives you can have a very small amount on hand to dose large quantities of fuel. Also, when you buy blended or treated fuel from the supplier, they are mixing it according to that months predicted weather. If you buy it in November, it might not be blended or treated to handle the much lower temps in Feb.

 

[atsah]

They blend the same here from October straight through March, agreed on the rest of your post..

 

[oldballs]

Around my part of the country, I'll be darned if any station attendant knows what and when their diesel fuel is #1 or #2. So, I put PS in every 5 gallon jug summer or winter. Around here the temp can go down below zero in the winter....maybe as much as -20 deg F. One just never knows what to expect around here for snow or for low temperatures.
Cheers,
Mike