Tractor Sizing GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Version 1.0)

[jeff9366]

WORKING DRAFT (7.2)​

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine bare tractor weight needed to safely accomplish your tasks. The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor chassis weight is more important for most tractor operations than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, bare tractor weight must increase 50% before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres. Subcompact and compact tractors under 3,000 pounds will enter a residential garage with typical 84" door height.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you must pay. Most tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are too tall to fit through an 84" height garage door, even with ROPS folded.

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. A heavier tractor with large diameter tires has more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires increase ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking and disturbance operating over rough pasture and woodland.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than level land operation. Heavier tractors have adjustable rear wheel spreads; wide rear wheel spreads hugely improve tractor stability. Four wheel drive is essential on hillsides. Four wheel drive supplies increased traction. When descending slopes 4-WD augments rear brakes as tractor weight shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip.

Tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires rather than air. "Loaded" tires are filled 50% to 75% with liquid, which lowers the tractor's center-of-gravity, increasing rollover resistance. "Loading" two compact tractor rear tires will increase tractor weight 300 pounds to 800 pounds over weight of identical two tires inflated with air.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Almost every new tractor is delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment. Dealer proximity is less important to those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[majorwager]

Jeffy's whole theme should be labeled "BUY TOO MUCH TRACTOR". If one researches his previous failed attempt at this skewed and biased thread, he received substantial push back from folks that purchased a smaller, lighter tractor and were thrilled w/ the result.

To truly ascertain the validity of this obsessive weight fetish, one need only look at the specification column where the tractor is disected by cost per pound? Perhaps someone is spending too much time in their Whole Foods Store.

There is a place for larger heavy tractors. There is an equally important niche for SCUTS. The OP completely and misleadingly ignores the latter.

Further, the tractor neophyte reference is condescending and downright insulting. Few tractor purchases are essential, but rather discretionary. Suggests buyer has some degree of financial success. and intelligence. If these folks are so inept and unqualified to purchase a tractor, how on earth did they manage the purchase of a home (or two?), automobiles, perhaps a boat, computer, large screen TV, or even underwear.?

Much as it might disappoint the OP, this thread is simply an opinion, to be weighed against all the other opinions and market forces on T-B-N and the many other arenas that may or may NOT influence a tractor purchase.

The actual "My OH My" factor is truly realized when the new owner realizes they have purchased and NOW committed to Paying For
TOO MUCH TRACTOR"

EDIT:

Post #11 offers an excellent counter-perspective. Certainly worth attention.

jeffy claims he put 500 hrs on a specific tractor, and then 400 hrs on another previous tractor, Would one wonder that in a combination of 900 hours, , jeffy was unable to accomplish a single task? If the first tractor was too small, why buy a second tractor of the same class? Did it take 9 or ten years to realize his tractor was too light? Many folks operate a tractor 100 hrs annually or less.
So can needs and tasks change ten years hence? Does everyone purchase the same automobile after 5 or 10 years use? Should one purchase a one ton duel wheel pick up because one day they may own a 5th wheel camper?. Could it just be "big tractor syndrome" because there is always conversation wherein the property size should correlate to the tractor size. This poster is advising purchase advice while stating he owns two adjoining residential building lots in a development.

BUY TOO MUCH TRACTOR, even if it is NOT necessary.

Bottom line, Buy as much tractor as YOU WANT, BUT if cost is a factor then buy as much TRACTOR as YOU NEED.

SEE POST # 19,

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

I think your connection between weight and safety\stability is not valid at all.. or really even your hyper focus on weight as a significant buying factor. It's more about balance, proper ballast, etc. You need weighti n the right places, not just tonnage. Wheel spacers are known to make a HUGE stability difference and are much more effective than simply having more weight. dollars\pound is a terrible way to buy a tractor.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I think your connection between weight and safety\stability is not valid at all.. or really even your hyper focus on weight as a significant buying factor. It's more about balance, proper ballast, etc. You need weighti n the right places, not just tonnage. Wheel spacers are known to make a HUGE stability difference and are much more effective than simply having more weight. dollars\pound is a terrible way to buy a tractor.

Don't worry. I think that many of us here on this forum LOL at Jeff and his sad attempt at self indulgent intellectual pandering. He simply loves to hear himself talk, and he gets some level of attention and self gratification by doing this that he otherwise is not receiving. I've pretty much given up on him as a lost cause.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I think your connection between weight and safety\stability is not valid at all.. or really even your hyper focus on weight as a significant buying factor. It's more about balance, proper ballast, etc. You need weighti n the right places, not just tonnage. Wheel spacers are known to make a HUGE stability difference and are much more effective than simply having more weight. dollars\pound is a terrible way to buy a tractor.

Agree, "weight first" is more useful if you're a farmer or commercial user.

My 800-lb lawn tractor has safely negotiated my 40% grades for 6 years. My 26HP Mahindra does it better with filled tires, 520 lbs of ballast on the rear (box blade) and whatever the FEL weighs in the front--both held as low as possible at all times. But surely everything depends on how the weight is distributed, like you said, and how the tractor is operated, as every tractor has a COG and a tipping point. From what I have read, big tractors tip all the time too.

I suppose the main difference (esp on hills) is that a larger/heavier tractor's COG is less affected once you lift something heavy. I.e., going uphill carrying a 1000-lb log, I am safer on a 4,000 lb tractor than a 2,000 lb tractor, assuming weight distribution of each tractor is the same? Of course, the obvious solution is not to try to carry a 1,000 lb log uphill on a 2,000 lb tractor.

I will say, if your ground is very rough, larger tires and more weight DO help by not bouncing you around as much, which can be scary on the steep. But it's clear that weight needs to be properly distributed. Mine seems pretty firmly planted on my rough, steep land. But I really wish wheel spacers or dual wheels were an option on mine. Really, really wish some manufacturer would make a low, wide tractor for hills that was affordable.

 

[kenmac]

I wish my mx5100 was a little heavier on the rear.
the tires are loaded, box blade, and the rear still raises off the ground with a full bucked of material

 

[majorwager]

I wish my mx5100 was a little heavier on the rear.
the tires are loaded, box blade, and the rear still raises off the ground with a full bucked of material

Kenmac,
Agree w/ your assessment. My MX is Also light in the rear, tires not loaded. I want to address the concept of bare weight. Messick's touched on this point as did Tractor Girl.

When a manufacturer designs a tractor, and a Bare Weight is established, it is the result of Proper Analysis of several factors such as hp and the front to rear component balance. The bare weight of a tractor is derived by determining the ability of a tractor to perform in stand alone mode.

The consumer decides which components to add as attachments or implements. The designer CAN NOT know how each tractor will be operated.
So the manufacturer makes ALLOWANCES for features such as the popular FEL. MY MX was FEL equipped, dealer removed it, since I did not require one.

The point is that the consumer can determine how the tractor performs by the EXTRA components HUNG on the tractor. The FEL may add weight yet change the center of gravity. I used my MX till 2017 w/ no FEL. Tractor now w/ FEL is actually less stable but suitable for more tasks. Why Don't all manufacturers just load the tires? Because extra rear weight isn't necessary until the consumer adds a component, the FEL

That addition alters how the tractor will perform from a tractive and stability perspective. Loading rear tires is a direct counter- balance on level surface. However, place the tractor perpendicular to a slope, and loaded tires are still a counter-balance But do to tractor position, does little to stabilize the machine. The uphill tire weight anchoring the tractor is offset by the other tire w/ downhill Force

CONCLUSION: jeff's weight obsession is less valid, than the manner in which the tractor is utilized with attachments and implements.

Example, mowing is the (my) MX primary function. HP powers the mower, Additional weight marks landscaped surfaces.

Shop weight when purchasing FOOD, NOT the most important tractor purchase consideration.

NEXT UP, a guide to "bear weight", Polar vs Brown.

 

[majorwager]

Girl with Tractor,

Unverferth produces wheel spacers/extentions for EVERY application. How that might affect your warranty, Can't say

EDIT:
Rock Crawler, Very cool, Certainly accommodating of you to find and post this helpful information.

As an aside, I try to pop in and like your You Tube videos when I get the chance. Not to distract from the thread, but what is the latest w/ the new lawn tractor?

I bought a used deere x340, 25 hp Kawasaki, 5.5 mph, no locking rear but a heavy machine. Tight steering, really like it $2000. Time will tell if wise move. K-58 tranny, greaseble mower spindles, bar tires.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Girl Who Has Tractor,

There is also this option for around $300 for 1.5" rear axle spacers for your particular unit. Adding 3" is a noticeable change. I have 1.5" spacers on my Kubota B and I would not give them up for any reason.
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings for your car! | Motorsport Tech

 

[airbiscuit]

I can condense Jeff's post down to one sentence.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR, Otherwise you're just spinning your wheels!