So having bought *my* first tractor within the last year-ish (worked around/with a few different ones tractors belonging to family members growing up), and working as engineer/acquisition professional I'd full agree with:
"The optimal way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first." - as it's always good to know what the requirements are before making a purchase.
After that I think it's worth further identifying and defining any constraints (e.g. maximum footprint, minimum absolute lifting capacity, spending limits), and any trade-offs that would be acceptable (for example: time to complete a task safely vs. money spent on larger equipment).
Until a person has an relatively good idea of what they are willing to accept it doesn't seem to make much sense to be deciding on what to buy (unless there's no/little issue with trading a new purchase in order to adjust either up or down in size). Note: that doesn't say anything about "window shopping" to see what is currently available in different size/price ranges.
For example some requirements/constraints I had on my own purchase:
- effectively use non-powered tillage equipment (moldboard plows, disc harrows, etc) -- which favors heavier (for size/HP) tractors
- a FEL capable of lifting a minimum of 500lb load (roughly what a 55 gallon drum full of water weighs) to full lift height --- (preference for lifting 2+ drums)
- size had to be as small as possible (and still meet other requirements) given it would be used as a primary mower for just under 3 acres of lawn & pasture
- PTO usage would be primarily for finish mowing -- based on tearing up and bogging down multiple riding/zero turn mowers, the general rule I've developed for mowing (at least in this part of the country) is no more than 2" of mowing width per gross HP when mowing at 3-5mph
- had to be able to handle mowers capable of covering tractor width at a minimum
- speed/direction control had to be quick and simple as mowing involves maneuvering around multiple trees, as well as fence lines, with added potential for quick stops due to dogs & vehicular traffic
- open platform was preferable due to potential for contact with low/over hanging tree limbs
- dealer/repair/part support had to be readily available for the expected life of the tractor (no matter how well something is made, things eventually break and need to be repaired or replaced)
- a 3rd function valve would be required to support grapples and other hydraulic loader attachments used for assisting with tree care & storm cleanup
- rear remotes were desirable for top & tilt cylinders, while being able to simultaneously supporting a third hydraulic function
- telescoping lower links became a must (having grown up around tractors that had them it seemed natural thing to have, and after seeing videos of hooking up implements without telescopic lower links it became a mandatory requirement based on expected implement changes)
-preference was to buy new so as not to spend time dealing with potentially inherited problems
It wasn't until I had most of that list compiled that I even started looking at tractors which could potentially meet my needs (even then there was some refining going on regarding some specifics: like the number of rear remotes, and telescoping lower links).
Ultimately this all resulted in the purchasing of a
L3560 HST as the tractor met my requirements and constraints -- and just as importantly the dealership was on my daily commute (it is also staffed by people who are helpful and friendly). In fact working with them was the only time I've ever had a sales person try to talk me into buying something cheaper/smaller than I came in intending to buy.
However, if even some of my requirements had been a bit different (for example if I was planning to use a tiller instead of a plow/disc combination) I may very well have gone with a lighter higher horsepower tractor. Where if my FEL minimums weren't what they are a Kubota B or BX size tractor would likely have sufficed. That's not exactly idle speculation either as I looked at going down both routes while I was developing my list of requirements for purchasing a tractor.
As it is with ~110 hours during my first year of use I currently can't see selling my
L3560, even though I can see uses for adding both larger and smaller tractors (along with a lot more property) to my collection.
Anyway, just figured I'd share few thoughts on the topic given I've spent the last few years casually going through the process of researching, refining and eventually purchasing a first tractor (and it was definitely a difference to be buying one instead of just working with what was available).