John Deere 5303 3 point hydraulics acting up.

[Dan Dargeloh]

Mr. deere5105, the total bill came to $1,124.26. The valve itself was $152.54. Total parts was $183.42, with $15 for shipping. Labor was $896.04 and Svc Acc/Enviro, whatever the heck that is came to $44.80. I also tipped Luke the mechanic $60 and told him to take his pretty girl friend out for steaks with all the trimmings and drinks. Hope this helps you. Not cheap, but a whole lot cheaper than getting rid of it and buying a new Kubota with loader! Let me know if you get this.

 

[deere5105]

Mr. deere5105, the total bill came to $1,124.26. The valve itself was $152.54. Total parts was $183.42, with $15 for shipping. Labor was $896.04 and Svc Acc/Enviro, whatever the heck that is came to $44.80. I also tipped Luke the mechanic $60 and told him to take his pretty girl friend out for steaks with all the trimmings and drinks. Hope this helps you. Not cheap, but a whole lot cheaper than getting rid of it and buying a new Kubota with loader! Let me know if you get this.

Thanks for the information. I have noticed this on my 5303 for as long as I can recall, but have just dealt with it by bumping the lift lever down a little when I start hearing it. Will have to decide at some point if worth repairing. With one kid starting college it isn’t at the top of my priority list right now! I am curious if the mechanic mentioned there being anything different with the new part in the repair. In other words does he anticipate or has he seen this be a long term fix or just replacing the existing part with same part and expectation of the problem reoccurring.

 

[Dan Dargeloh]

deere5105, when you bump that lever you are manually unloading the system. I did that all the time also, but in 30 or 45 seconds the pressure will return and you have to do it again. I had to replace the pressure relief spring for the hydraulic pump not long after I got mine as the system would not build the pressure it should have and wouldn't lift trail behind implements like it should have. I attribute that to the control valve not relieving like it should have and the pump being required to pump against the relief valve all the time. I'd be scared of shortening the life of the hydraulic pump and they aren't cheap. I had a couple of drinks with Luke (the mechanic) last night and he said that they'd had a LOT of trouble with this in that style of tractor. He indicated that the valve he put in mine is like the 3rd version of that particular valve, so they have been making improvements in them. Hopefully they got it right with the one he installed in my tractor. It sure works great now. Ask around, there are private shops that work cheaper than the stealerships and if you find one with a competent mechanic he should be able to do it for less than the dealer. You can find info on line and for $24 I got access to an online service manual that tells what to do. After getting this fixed I have for the most part forgot about replacing it with a Kubota. The first four gears on this 5303 are perfect for my finishing mower and shredders that I use.

 

[deere5105]

Appreciate the sharing of info. From hearing your descriptions, I am having the same things happen on my tractor.

 

[deere5105]

deere5105, when you bump that lever you are manually unloading the system. I did that all the time also, but in 30 or 45 seconds the pressure will return and you have to do it again. I had to replace the pressure relief spring for the hydraulic pump not long after I got mine as the system would not build the pressure it should have and wouldn't lift trail behind implements like it should have. I attribute that to the control valve not relieving like it should have and the pump being required to pump against the relief valve all the time. I'd be scared of shortening the life of the hydraulic pump and they aren't cheap. I had a couple of drinks with Luke (the mechanic) last night and he said that they'd had a LOT of trouble with this in that style of tractor. He indicated that the valve he put in mine is like the 3rd version of that particular valve, so they have been making improvements in them. Hopefully they got it right with the one he installed in my tractor. It sure works great now. Ask around, there are private shops that work cheaper than the stealerships and if you find one with a competent mechanic he should be able to do it for less than the dealer. You can find info on line and for $24 I got access to an online service manual that tells what to do. After getting this fixed I have for the most part forgot about replacing it with a Kubota. The first four gears on this 5303 are perfect for my finishing mower and shredders that I use.

What control valve specifically was replaced if you know? Was it the Rockshaft Control Valve?

 

[Dan Dargeloh]

What control valve specifically was replaced if you know? Was it the Rockshaft Control Valve?

Yes it was the Rockshaft control valve. The part numbers were SJ23641 ($152.54) and SJ290455 ($13.85) along with "O" ring T77857 (#2.03). The freight bill was $15.00. Tractor is still operating great. Oil still gets warm after a couple of hours of shredding or mowing, but not as hot as before. Before it would be hot in about 20 minutes or so. Tractor sounds different now without having the pump running all the time which was probably costing at least 5 horsepower. These tractors seem to have a history of bad control valves.

 

[deere5105]

Yes it was the Rockshaft control valve. The part numbers were SJ23641 ($152.54) and SJ290455 ($13.85) along with "O" ring T77857 (#2.03). The freight bill was $15.00. Tractor is still operating great. Oil still gets warm after a couple of hours of shredding or mowing, but not as hot as before. Before it would be hot in about 20 minutes or so. Tractor sounds different now without having the pump running all the time which was probably costing at least 5 horsepower. These tractors seem to have a history of bad control valves.

Thanks for the part numbers. I wanted to look them up on JD Parts to see if I could tell where they were located and what might be involved in accessing them.

 

[Dan Dargeloh]

Thanks for the part numbers. I wanted to look them up on JD Parts to see if I could tell where they were located and what might be involved in accessing them.

The service manager said they would have to remove the seat, right fender and move the fuel tank out of the way if that is any help.