2305-utility tractor- won't stay running without attaching jumper cables to it!

[ruffdog]

With engine running, you should be getting voltage in the 13.1 range, which allows for charging battery. Also, remove ground wire at frame and sandpaper both ends. Reattach and recheck. You would not believe the number of times ive found poor grounding to be an issue

^^^Yes, check this to see if your charging system is working!

 

[JayHo]

GRS and ruffdog...thank you for the suggestion. I just did this and without the tractor running it read 12.4 and with it running it fell to 12.3. I also put some dielectric grease on that connection, after I sanded it, too. I hoping that was going to be the problem!

 

[ruffdog]

You have a charging problem.

 

[JayHo]

ruffdog. Can it be the voltage regulator?
With the battery charged and my grass unusually high and thick, I thought I would cut for as long as the charge in the battery would allow me to and if it takes me two or three days of mowing and overnight charges than so be it.
To my surprise I was able to mow for about 2 to 2 1/2 hours and finish my entire lawn. Keep in mind this was harder work than usual on the mower because of the rain we are having here in southeast pa. But it did it with the old alternator.
When I turned it off I thought I would check my batteries voltage and it read 12.1 .
I don't know if it was the right decision but I took out the new alternator before I mowed because I didn't see an improvement.
Not to be repetitive but I don't understand why the other day it wouldn't run without the jumper cables attached and today I can mow maybe 2 1/2 acres.
Thank you all for your help!

 

[ruffdog]

jayho. First, your alternator makes alternating current from (normally) 3 windings. It is a high voltage that is AC, so then it has to go through a rectifier to change AC to DC (direct current). All the rectifier is is a set of 3 diodes that are one way electrical valves. The electricity only flows one way turning AC to DC. Then you have the regulator that has 2 jobs. It first senses the DC voltage of your tractor's electrical system, then, it must regulate how much amperage to get it to optimum voltage.

 

[ruffdog]

jayho. A person could check the resistance of each AC winding (stator) for opens or shorts (not running). Check how much AC voltage from each pair of windings while running. With a ohm meter, check the rectifier diodes for proper flow and shorts (not running). Then.........check to see if the regulator has the correct charging voltage (while running).

 

[Redlands Okie]

Napa can check the alternator but it seems you have the information indicating a bad alternator or regulator. Something in the charging system. Running the tractor without a proper working charging system will shorten the lifespan of the battery a lot. Low voltage can also cause problems with sensors and computers if your tractor has them.

 

[JayHo]

Thanks for the input. Yesterday, the tractor started and I was able to mow the lawn again. After I was done I shut off the tractor and hosed it off. I attempted to start it thereafter but it was very weak, it cranked some but then it would just click.
I charged it while it was installed in the tractor all night with my Battery Tender but the red light didn't go off and the green light didn't come on as I had expected it would. The Battery Tender's manual suggests that if this happens the battery may be defective. I guess to confirm I should disconnect the battery from the terminals. Thanks again for all the help and I'll certainly keep you posted.

 

[atsah]

Jump it and get it running then remove the battery cables, if it stays running the alternator is good and the battery is junk, if it doesn't the alternator is defective and is killing the battery.. It's either a short in the cell of the battery or the alternator is bad or both..

If the battery never goes to green it's probably a shorted cell in the battery.. A bad alternator could have wrecked your new battery by not charging it.

 

[LouNY]

Jump it and get it running then remove the battery cables, if it stays running the alternator is good and the battery is junk, if it doesn't the alternator is defective and is killing the battery.. It's either a short in the cell of the battery or the alternator is bad or both..

If the battery never goes to green it's probably a shorted cell in the battery.. A bad alternator could have wrecked your new battery by not charging it.

I would be carefull doing this, the surge/spike can damage voltage regulators and any electronics in the system.
Simply measure the voltage at the battery terminal with the tractor running at 2/3's of pto speed,
if you are not seeing over 12V usually 13 to 13.5 volts from your alternator it's bad or you have terrible connections somewhere.
Also you can lay a screwdriver on the rear of the alternator while it's running and the screwdriver should have a magnetic
attraction to the alternator.