Z Force 48 Difficult Starting

[radios1]

you can try using a jumper cable from battery + to the coil wire of the solenoid. you can also try using jumper cables directly to the starter. just to see what is going on.. I'll bet you have a bad solenoid, since it starts after multiple attempts, they DO wear out..

 

[tomplum]

On a Briggs Intek, adjusting the valve lash makes ALL the difference. If the lash is excessive, the compression release as it is ground into the cam is not effective. Google Briggs Intek twin valve adjusting for step by step. Basically though, with the piston 1/4" past the intake valve closing- the valves get set on that cylinder .004 intake and .006 exhaust.

 

[radios1]

On a Briggs Intek, adjusting the valve lash makes ALL the difference. If the lash is excessive, the compression release as it is ground into the cam is not effective. Google Briggs Intek twin valve adjusting for step by step. Basically though, with the piston 1/4" past the intake valve closing- the valves get set on that cylinder .004 intake and .006 exhaust.

the ops engine doesn't even try to start, he has to make the solenoid click about 5-6 times before it starts.. so it's not a problem with the compression release.

 

[GBHRPS]

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Pulled every switch, relay, the solenoid, ground wires and connections on the entire mower. Cleaned, wire brushed, used electrical contact cleaner spray in the switches, and after the fluid evaporated reinstalled it all.

Now I have the same symptoms as before BUT ... the crank rotates just a bit with each start cycle of the ignition switch. Three or 4 repetitions and the unit fires up and runs strong. I ran out of time today, but I'll readjust the valves tomorrow and I believe I'll have the problem solved. It appears that I somehow had two small issues that were tag teaming the engine, an electrical resistance somewhere that is now corrected (I hope) and a valve or two out of adjustment.

I'll post my results when I can get back at it.

 

[Richard001]

. copper wires don't get corroded inside the plastic covering.. ..

Radios,

While you have good suggestions to trouble shoot the problem, your comment about corrosion of the copper wire inside of the jacket is not true.

Unless each wire in the cable is individually tinned, the corrosion will follow the copper stands down in the cable.

Richard

 

[radios1]

Radios,

While you have good suggestions to trouble shoot the problem, your comment about corrosion of the copper wire inside of the jacket is not true.

Unless each wire in the cable is individually tinned, the corrosion will follow the copper stands down in the cable.

Richard

I've only seen that severe corrosion on boats used in saltwater, where the copper cable was immersed in salt water, on land, I've seen a mild corrosion travelling quite a few inches, but not deep enough to corrode the copper so much that it reduces it's current carrying capacity.. unless you cut a cable, and try to put a new connector on, then you have to thoroughly clean the copper where you want to put the connector.. corrosion so severe that it reduces a let's say, 14 gauge copper wire to an 18 gauge inside the plastic insulation would be very rare on land, indeed..

 

[GBHRPS]

Ladies & Gentlemen,

Sorry for the late update, but family issues intervened.

Anyhow, the hard start issue is no more! Turn the key, she cranks and fires up instantly.

Thanks to all who helped to get to the solution! Much appreciated.

Gene

 

[radios1]

Ladies & Gentlemen,

Sorry for the late update, but family issues intervened.

Anyhow, the hard start issue is no more! Turn the key, she cranks and fires up instantly.

Thanks to all who helped to get to the solution! Much appreciated.

Gene

so, what did the trick?. so it can help others..

 

[GBHRPS]

radios1,

As I stated in my very last post, I suspected that the valves needed adjusting, and that is what finally solved the issue.

The engine on this Z Force is positioned such that the twin valve covers point to the rear of the tractor. There is very little clearance for putting anything for measuring (screwdriver) into the cylinders in order to find TDC, because of the twin fuel tanks being so close to the spark plugs.

After several failed attempts at adjusting, I finally gained the clearance needed by removing 3 of the 4 bolts securing the fuel tanks, and then swung the tanks sideways to open up the space. Once I could accurately find TDC with the screwdriver, and then allowed the crank rotation to indicate a further 1/4 inch of piston travel down, the valves were set to tolerance and everything reinstalled. The engine fired right up from the first turn of the key.

Gene

 

[radios1]

very good it's fixed!..