Now ready for the concrete in the pole barn

[RNeumann]

They probably are not the sharpest knife in the drawer but they would probably use chairs if it was their own pour. You want rebar in the tension portion of the concrete and on the edges of the pour that is higher in the slab. It does little to no good in the center and bottom there.

When you say “They probably are not the sharpest knife.....” (implying they lack intelligence), what generalization were you making? Race, sex, religion, nationality? Or were you just implying people who work with their hands aren’t smart?

The OP has stated the concrete will be “tailgated” (no pump) and the concrete truck will be inside the structure to lay concrete in the back. This means the rebar needs to be against the ground until the truck pulls out of the structure. At that point some would just lift it and others would take the time to add the “chairs” or “dobies”. Both have advantages and disadvantages and without a specific spec or contractual note it would be up to the contractor. Either way I’m sure it will end up in the slab- not on the bottom.
But heck, I’m not too sharp. All I did was read the posts (especially the OPs).

 

[goeduck]

When you say 典hey probably are not the sharpest knife..... (implying they lack intelligence), what generalization were you making? Race, sex, religion, nationality? Or were you just implying people who work with their hands aren稚 smart?

Whoa, hold on cowboy.... I was responding to the comment made:

He hated chairs because they got stuck in the gravel when they drove their buggy over the mesh/rebar.

Anyone that would drive over rebar installed on chairs and then fuss because they got stuck in the gravel..... well you tell me how smart of a move that is.

 

[747driver]

Really turned out nice. Very experienced local crew I hired. $3850 for the concrete and $1100 for labor. $135 for the fiber mix and $185 for retarder as it was a hours drive from the batch plant. The slump was 5.5 which made for no water laying on top to pull off. Got a pad poured for the entrance door and a pad for my woodshop with the extra left over. For the life of me I don't understand people not wearing protective gear when using a concrete saw !! I offered ear muffs but he said no. Will go get some concrete penetrating sealer this week while the floor is still clean. I helped to make sure the mesh and rebar was pulled up...other than that I stood back and watched !!

 

[747driver]

Gonna be an exciting day!!!!

I'm curious why you didn't use chairs for the rebar? One of the biggest lies told in the concrete world is that they will lift the rebar while working it, and then nobody will step on it while spreading the mud, and push it right back down to the ground. That is if they even pretend to lift it for photo's. If nobody is around, then they don't even pretend.

I used broken pieces of face brick instead....The crew was good about pulling the wire and rebar up. Thats about the only work I helped with !

 

[747driver]

If you want to be sure that section does not rot out on you later cut with a saws all the ends of the add on part and notch the boards as suggested. Couple extra stakes and then pull the board out after you have the concrete on grade. Few shovel fulls of concrete to back fill it in.

Actually might only need a short section of board in the door way just for grading purpose. Might be able to let the rest of the area flow under the walls.

The one number one bad thing about that wire mesh is that often times every one gets busy, hot or tired and it does not get pulled up into the concrete. Might keep a eye on that.

The grade board is special treated lumber 1" thick. If it rots Morton will replace it !

 

[747driver]

Yes I know I am probably going to get flamed. Rebar on 16 inch or 24 inch spacing can easily be pulled up as the pour is made. Once the gravel is under the rebar it痴 unlikely to go back down to grade height if walked on. The problem is making darn sure it happens. A person better be watching closely to whats going on. Chairs take away a lot of those worries. Also make sure their not using pieces of brick or boards or other such junk instead of proper chairs.

Fiber or wire mesh are not proper substitutes for rebar.

One thing I do find interesting is how much money and work people spend on concrete and how often the rebar is laid out with no regard to posts, inside corners, saw cuts, and stress areas. Same for proper expansion joints and materials. That is assuming the products are even being used to start with.

Hopefully the OP痴 pour and finish went well.

I used brick pieces but they got taken out once the rebar was pulled up...leaves a void if you leave then in. It wasn't that hard to pull the mesh and rebar up.

 

[RNeumann]

Really turned out nice. Very experienced local crew I hired. $3850 for the concrete and $1100 for labor. $135 for the fiber mix and $185 for retarder as it was a hours drive from the batch plant. The slump was 5.5 which made for no water laying on top to pull off. Got a pad poured for the entrance door and a pad for my woodshop with the extra left over. For the life of me I don't understand people not wearing protective gear when using a concrete saw !! I offered ear muffs but he said no. Will go get some concrete penetrating sealer this week while the floor is still clean. I helped to make sure the mesh and rebar was pulled up...other than that I stood back and watched !!View attachment 568538View attachment 568539View attachment 568540View attachment 568541View attachment 568542View attachment 568543View attachment 568544View attachment 568545View attachment 568546View attachment 568547View attachment 568548

Looking good! Even the local Sherriff came out to help!!!

 

[Redlands Okie]

Looks and seems like it all turned out well, congrats.

Concrete takes about 28 days to cure. First 3 days does a lot, first week quite a bit. Other words the first week it has a lot of water possibly working out.
Some concrete sealers are water based and handle it fine but they do turn whitish and takes a long time to fade out if its over applied.
Oil base are better in general but some handle the water better than others. Be careful to read the instructions. Many products says the concrete needs to be cured.

 

[ultrarunner]

Great feeling when it all comes together and in just in time for the Fall season.

 

[747driver]

Looking good! Even the local Sherriff came out to help!!!

Thanks ! He is the contractor which is a side job for him...he works in the sheriffs dept.