will this work for a top link?

   / will this work for a top link? #11  
Does one of your remotes have float? That is a major plus for some implements and for hooking up you can just pull/push to the desired location. The fittings are inexpensive if they're a standard tractor style. Some manufactures have special fittings :thumbdown:. Several places make custom hoses that really aren't that much more than pre-made hoses. Plus with custom hoses you can get the ends that fit properly and avoid adapters (more $$ and more leak points).

Not sure what purpose the check valve serves on these?
 
   / will this work for a top link? #12  
The check valve prevents drift if the valve leaks.

Cutting the ends off a generic cylinder and welding on the proper ball end pivots will save you $60 or so, not counting the costs of the ball ends fittings.

For hoses I'd get adaptors from NPT (on the cylinder and quick connects) to JIC and then use hoses with female JIC fittings. Surpluscenter and discounthydraulichose will have all that. Consider a restrictor in the rod end of the cylinder to slow it's movement.
 
   / will this work for a top link? #13  
The check valve prevents drift if the valve leaks.

Cutting the ends off a generic cylinder and welding on the proper ball end pivots will save you $60 or so, not counting the costs of the ball ends fittings.

For hoses I'd get adaptors from NPT (on the cylinder and quick connects) to JIC and then use hoses with female JIC fittings. Surpluscenter and discounthydraulichose will have all that. Consider a restrictor in the rod end of the cylinder to slow it's movement.
There is a good possibility that the end caps on the tie rod cylinder are cast metal and it may be difficult to do any welding on the base end cap...

Pilot check valves will prevent the cylinder from going into float mode...
 

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