Adding rear remotes to 1620

[Whitbread]

Howdy guys! I recently acquired a early 90s NH 1620 that I would like to add a 3 spool rear remote valve to. I'd like to do hydraulic top and side links and convert my box blade teeth to hydraulic up/down. The tractor has a front end loader control valve with a power beyond plug on the bottom (to the best of my understanding anyway).

I'm a machinist/fabricator by trade and have a good grasp on basic hydraulics, but I've never messed with tractor specific hydraulics or ordered a mutlispool valve with 10+ different spool options. Just built/repaired a few hydraulic log splitters/snow plows.

I've read just about every thread I can Google up on adding rear remotes to nh/Ford tractors of this generation and it seems they all have a slightly different model tractor than I or had different goals for the add on hydraulics (much higher planned flow rates).

From my research it seems there's 2 ways to properly tap into the hydraulics, either from the power beyond port on the loader valve or a special block that goes on the side of the trans housing paired with oem Ford/nh valves that cost an arm and a leg. Is there any reason I can't use the power beyond port to feed a 3 spool valve and dump the return line off the valve block into the transmission case?

As for the valve itself;
I presume open center,spring return on all spools right?
Float on 2 of 3 spools
Don't necessarily need power beyond port
Anything I missed?

I believe this valve will work, ordered with float option on 2 spools and it should be good right? I only plan on 3/8" hoses to the cylinders so the port sizes should be more than adequate.

Thanks for the help guys! Here's a photo of the tractor in question

 

[Whitbread]

Since no one seemed to know any specific information and there isn't a single thread on the internet covering adding remotes to a 1620 without a backhoe, here's my crash course in it. Install would've been much faster but every bolt was rusty/crusty and some had to removed with plasma. Only 285 hours on it, but was used by a town in NY for blowing snow only until I got it this spring. Apparently they didn't believe in covering or at least parking it on concrete.

Valve sourced from ebay with 2 float spools added
Quick connects also from ebay
Top link from Dalton Hydraulics
Hoses and fittings were sourced from local hydraulic shop


The loader valve does not have a power beyond port, so the easiest option to get hydraulic power to another valve is to plumb it in series. To do this, the return line from the loader valve to the hydraulic manifold must be re-routed. The fitting threaded into the valve is a 3/4"-16 ORB to #6 MJIC. This line goes to the pressure in port of the new 3 spool valve.





The hydraulic manifold has 3/8" NPT threads, so a double male 3/8" NPT to #6 JIC is used there. This is the return line from the 3 spool valve back to tank (well technically the transmission).


Here's the completed system before the fender goes back on and hides it all. The 3 spool valve fit perfectly on the panel that is between the fender/wheel well and transmission.


Widened a factory slot just a touch and added two more slots for the levers to poke through


Made a quick 1/4" bracket for the quick connects and welded it to the upper link bracket. They will power the ram on my box blade ripper teeth once I add it. The two hoses by the side link are zip tied out of the way for now with plugs in the ends, I'll make a side link cylinder in the new month or two.




After a leak check, I cycled the top link ram and it moves more than quick enough at idle despite being fed by 1/4" hoses. I'll have to see what the speed is like at ~1800rpm, I might need to drill/tap a fitting for a set screw to make a restrictor fitting.



I hope this helps someone else do the same job!

 

[/pine]

...Since no one seemed to know any specific information and there isn't a single thread on the internet covering adding remotes to a 1620 without a backhoe...

There is now...
good job...!

 

[Whitbread]

Side link is done now! Picked up a 1.5"x4" welded tube cylinder for $85 and cannibalized the ends of my original link. Works like a champ!



Quick rustoleum spray


Like it was made to be!

 

[fried1765]

Side link is done now! Picked up a 1.5"x4" welded tube cylinder for $85 and cannibalized the ends of my original link. Works like a champ!



Quick rustoleum spray


Like it was made to be!

I just had a guy do something quite similar for me, but I am not satisfied with how it works.
He took the loader valve return pipe off, and used a hose from the loader valve return to the new valve, and then a hose back to where that pipe return line had been connected to the hydraulic block on the tractor.
I just wanted tilt function, but to tilt, I must activate the loader valve while simultaneously activating the new tilt valve.
It sorta works, but it is a nuisance to use.
How can I improve this, so that I do not need to keep moving the loader valve to allow the tilt valve to function?

 

[/pine]

I just had a guy do something quite similar for me, but I am not satisfied with how it works.
He took the loader valve return pipe off, and used a hose from the loader valve return to the new valve, and then a hose back to where that pipe return line had been connected to the hydraulic block on the tractor.
I just wanted tilt function, but to tilt, I must activate the loader valve while simultaneously activating the new tilt valve.
It sorta works, but it is a nuisance to use.
How can I improve this, so that I do not need to keep moving the loader valve to allow the tilt valve to function?

You should start a new thread in the hydraulics forum as to not hijack this worthy one... :thumbsup:

 

[/pine]

Side link is done now! Picked up a 1.5"x4" welded tube cylinder for $85 and cannibalized the ends of my original link. Works like a champ!

Curious...did you make the side link so at half travel (2") it was the same length as the original solid link?

 

[fried1765]

You should start a new thread in the hydraulics forum as to not hijack this worthy one... :thumbsup:

Shame on me!

 

[Whitbread]

How can I improve this, so that I do not need to keep moving the loader valve to allow the tilt valve to function?

Thats exactly what I did, so something is wrong in your setup. If the loader valve is open center, you just take the return to tank line and feed your next valve in series with it. My remote valve works just fine without having to touch the loader valve.

Curious...did you make the side link so at half travel (2") it was the same length as the original solid link?

Yup, was 18" from center of top to center of middle hole.

 

[klem531]

Thank you for posting this! I have a 1996 1620 with a loader and front mount snow blower. I've been wanting to run a hydraulic log splitter and like you i I have been looking for a reasonable way to get a remote to the back of my tractor. This is awesome!

 

[Whitbread]

Thank you for posting this! I have a 1996 1620 with a loader and front mount snow blower. I've been wanting to run a hydraulic log splitter and like you i I have been looking for a reasonable way to get a remote to the back of my tractor. This is awesome!

Glad to help you out! There's lots of info out there on the subject, but very little specifics. Just make sure to order a spool valve with a detent so you can engage it and hop off the tractor to feed the splitter valve.

 

[spitter]

nice work !:thumbsup: Love to see people fixing up older equipment . Rustoleum New Holland blue is a perfect match touch up paint for your tractor if you ever try to match anything. I sanded and painted scratches on my loader arms and cylinders and you can't tell old from new. Mine is a 99 TC 29d. How much did the rear hydros cost looking to do same thing tnt.:cool2::drink:

 

[Rich B1]

I find a bungee strap between the handle of the valve and the foot plate makes a pretty awesome decent on my TC21D. Runs the log splitter just fine.

 

[Whitbread]

nice work !:thumbsup: Love to see people fixing up older equipment . Rustoleum New Holland blue is a perfect match touch up paint for your tractor if you ever try to match anything. I sanded and painted scratches on my loader arms and cylinders and you can't tell old from new. Mine is a 99 TC 29d. How much did the rear hydros cost looking to do same thing tnt.:cool2::drink:

She's old and ugly, but just turned 310 hours! Came from a city in New York where all it did was blow snow in winter and sit all summer. I was hoping to sandblast and paint it this past summer, but that didn't happen . Maybe this coming summer I'll have some free time and make it pretty again.

I think I have about $500 in the 3 spool valve, lines/fittings, and 2 cylinders. If you're not good with a welder, your side link cylinder will be a good bit more expensive though.

 

[Atvjoe]

She's old and ugly, but just turned 310 hours! Came from a city in New York where all it did was blow snow in winter and sit all summer. I was hoping to sandblast and paint it this past summer, but that didn't happen ��. Maybe this coming summer I'll have some free time and make it pretty again.

I think I have about $500 in the 3 spool valve, lines/fittings, and 2 cylinders. If you're not good with a welder, your side link cylinder will be a good bit more expensive though.

Wow what great info you posted, I just picked up a 1920 ford (that had a rough life in South Florida Rain) that I’m restoring and I wanted to install rear remotes for my box blade, but now I love your set up even better. I have found your 3 spool valve, and cylinders, by any chance do you have the lengths and sizes of the hoses and how many? I have to do it a little different because mine came with a SMC 84Q loader and the spool valve up front is different than yours. your help will be Appreciate. Please keep posting your updates on your 1920, your post are very detailed and Awesome.......:thumbsup: