Connections for Hydraulic winch

[OZisKTB]

Know nothing about hydraulics
I want to add a hydraulic powered capstan winch. I have one rear remote with detent to power my 4:1 bucket. I will not use the 4:1 at the same time as the winch, but I will use both on the same task, winch, pickup, winch, pickup ... so I do not want to have to shut down to switch quick disconnects. I have a cab, so control of the winch hydraulics standing by 3pt would be nice, but not required.

Suggestions please, prefer a good enough solution since its unlikely I will add a different hydraulic powered attachment. Thanks in advance.

 

[Rustyiron]

You'll need one of these; Double Selector Valve w/Detent SAE 1 Ports | Selector Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
and some hoses & fittings. You want to power this valve from your pair of rear remotes (in-out) then power your winch and it sounds like you already have lines running to the front 4/1 bucket so I'd put the appropriate quick connect fitting in this new valve for your 4/1. There are 6 ports on this valve - 2 are in/out to the new valve, then there are 4 left for your 2 circuits. You'll have to move the lever on the new valve manually to divert the flow to your 4/1 or winch. Both can not be used at the same time and you may have to "bungie cord" your tractor valve as operating winch may trip (cancel) the detent. The 4/1 should operate as it does now from your seat.

 

[/pine]

I might be wrong but this seems to me to be a perfect fit for an electrical diverter...?
the only changes inside the cab would be wiring a switch button for the existing joystick..

The valve and some hoses would be outside... google search TBN for "third function" and "diverter valves"

 

[ericm979]

Switching the 4:1 to a diverter or 3rd function would let you control it from a button on the joystick. Then you'd need another valve on the winch, connected to the current remote, with the remote lever down in the detent. That will put the system in relief when the winch is turned off. Maybe since it's a capstan you can leave it turning all the time but if it was me I'd want a valve near the operator in case of accident like getting your shirt caught.

If being in relief so much is a problem, you could add a second remote with the valve mounted on the back of the tractor where it's handy when using the winch. It'd be plumbed serially after or before the current remote.

 

[Rustyiron]

If being in relief so much is a problem, you could add a second remote with the valve mounted on the back of the tractor where it's handy when using the winch. It'd be plumbed serially after or before the current remote.

I'd bite the bullet ($$$) and add the extra remote. I made rear valve controls that work with the cab controls for my remotes, real handy. Just piggybacked off the mechanical linkage.

 

[OZisKTB]

Here are the connections I have now for the 4:1, I could not attach to original from mobile website.

 

[OZisKTB]

This seems what I'm looking for, didn't know what the options are. Thanks

 

[/pine]

To relate the diagram below to the OP's query...replace the dialog as follows:

P1 and P2 get connected to the existing remotes

C1 and C4 get connected to the 4:1

C2 and C3 get connected to the winch

The push button gets wired and run to the existing lever/joystick...

In normal operation when the lever/joystick is activated it operates the 4:1
When the push button switch is engaged and the lever/joystick is activated it operates the winch...

With this setup the push button switch would need to be held in a closed (engaged) position when the lever is in the detent position to keep the winch working... reversing the C1/C4 and C2/C3 working lines would solve this issue but the push button switch would need to be pushed when using the 4:1

 

[OZisKTB]

So I asked the JD guy about this. He went to the Dealer as not his expertise. $1500 parts and labor for a push button in the cab?