Gravel pole barn floor

[hgut]

How is a good way to keep the moisture down, the pole barn will be for equipment storage, cant afford to concrete it, so we will put down 4 inches of gravel, what would be the most economical way to install a moisture barrier that would work? thanks

 

[LouNY]

I would lay out highway fabric for strength and top that when heavy mill plastic, then your gravel.

 

[Oldoak]

I would lay out highway fabric for strength and top that when heavy mill plastic, then your gravel.

I think that would help keep the moisture down, however, I think driving over the 4" of gravel will punch holes through the plastic allowing moisture to come up through.

Although it would be added expense, perhaps a layer of closed cell insulation foam board over the heavy mill plastic would prevent the gravel from puncturing through the layer of plastic.

 

[1010]

If the floor is taller than any ground around it, with water able to drain away that approaches from upslopes, and the gravel on top there shouldn't be a need for filter cloth except to help with weeds.
You don't want plastic under washed gravel, it's hold any moisture that does fall on top of the gravel. Washed gravel is already a super porous material for getting moisture away from structures as is sand.
All this depends on the terrain you plan to have the structure placed.

I wouldn't washed gravel any deeper than 4inches. It can cause traction problems.
Crushed limestone #6-10 would be a better choice but, it has some drawbacks too.
Like white dust, or having to lay on top of it working underneath equipment.

 

[nyone]

Gutters and long down spouts is the cheapest way.

 

[rgr33]

For economic reasons I went with a gravel floor over plastic sheeting when I. first built my barn. The chrome wheels on my bike rusted badly the first winter, along with most everything else made of metal. Dampness in the winter was a major problem. As soon as I could afford it, I poured a concrete floor.

I would say do what you financially need to do, but plan on upgrading to concrete as soon as you can.

 

[tcreeley]

A shortcut with a gravel floor building - to avoid spending the money on concrete - is to ensure good ventilation - vents, open doors, etc.. There will always be condensation when there is an inadequate airflow. That is what you are tryng to avoid.

Another cost cutter is to put plastic down on top of the gravel where you are going to store metal/machinery and then lay 1/2" plywood flat on the plastic. Its own weight keeps the plywood in place and provides a dry surface to work on. I've done this in a closed shelterlogic tarp building - works fine. 5 years now, and two years before that exposed to the elements as roofing for some metal roofing I wanted to protect from snow and rain.

Proper drainage and slope is essential before laying down the gravel for any foundation. Gravel is porous- water will collect where ever there are low points - you don't want the roof water running back in under the building through the gravel to that interior low point!

 

[1010]

I can't imagine why anybody would put plastic down (very nonporous) and then put washed gravel (very porous) on top of it.
It's essentially a gravel fish bowl. Now filter cloth would be ok since it allows moisture out of the gravel, and it keeps the gravel together and not mixing with the dirt underneath as much.

Sand would work ok under the gravel also since it going to allow water out fast. But it'll bleed to the top on traffic areas over time. But it packs down well and still allows water out.

 

[Tigershark]

Save up for concrete, took us 3 years with a gravel floor, dealt with mice, critters etc hooking up equipment on uneven surfaces finally through in the towel and pulled the trigger on concrete

 

[Hiptfarms]

I'm just about to start my (hopefully last) barn build. It is going to have a 14 x 38 foot central alley. I dont know if it is a possibility for you but I found that using cull brick from a local brickyard was a cost saver for me. I was able to get 12 cubes of utility size brick delivered for 471.00. That is way cheaper than the concrete I would need for that space. It will take longer to lay the brick but I have plenty if time. I'm planning on dry laying the brick over a compressed layer of crusher run topped with soft sand. ( I already had the crushed stone given to me). After placing the brick tightly together with no mortar joint space, I will sweep more sand between the bricks. I have used a 3 part sharp sand to 1 part cement ratio before that has worked well but the brick manufacturer suggested that I not use the cement. They have used the method outlined above for their parking lot for over 20 years and it has held up well. Us I think the brick will look really nice. The only thing with the cull brick was you can only choose browns or reds. No specific colors. I picked browns and the cubes delivered are a nice range. I plan on mixing them for a varied look. Here's hoping my shoulders and knees hang in there.