Gravel pole barn floor

[fried1765]

I'm just about to start my (hopefully last) barn build. It is going to have a 14 x 38 foot central alley. I dont know if it is a possibility for you but I found that using cull brick from a local brickyard was a cost saver for me. I was able to get 12 cubes of utility size brick delivered for 471.00. That is way cheaper than the concrete I would need for that space. It will take longer to lay the brick but I have plenty if time. I'm planning on dry laying the brick over a compressed layer of crusher run topped with soft sand. ( I already had the crushed stone given to me). After placing the brick tightly together with no mortar joint space, I will sweep more sand between the bricks. I have used a 3 part sharp sand to 1 part cement ratio before that has worked well but the brick manufacturer suggested that I not use the cement. They have used the method outlined above for their parking lot for over 20 years and it has held up well. Us I think the brick will look really nice. The only thing with the cull brick was you can only choose browns or reds. No specific colors. I picked browns and the cubes delivered are a nice range. I plan on mixing them for a varied look. Here's hoping my shoulders and knees hang in there.

You will get mighty tired of placing brick,....but it should look fantastic when done.

 

[dannoGT]

Or build your own hi speed brick paver machine to pull behind tractor? BRICK ROAD LAYING MACHINE - YouTube

 

[waycoolmarine]

I was prepping for concrete and the paving company was doing the road out front , I asked how much to pave it ? they put 5" of binder down and it was less than the cost of the concrete without labor , I have seal coated it twice its -smooth still doesn't sweep up like concrete but for storage its great dried up the building - my 40x 120 was less than $5000 installed .

 

[Deere Dude]

I'm just about to start my (hopefully last) barn build. It is going to have a 14 x 38 foot central alley. I dont know if it is a possibility for you but I found that using cull brick from a local brickyard was a cost saver for me. I was able to get 12 cubes of utility size brick delivered for 471.00. That is way cheaper than the concrete I would need for that space. .

Is that 12 cubes just for the 14x38 section? It does sound like a good idea in my case.

 

[Norm W]

I have a 24x40 that I store a 1953 4104 converted to a camper, a 1976 road tractor and other assorted "Stuff". The floor is concrete. The moisture problem comes from temperature changes, and lack of air flow. When the air temp goes up the moisture condenses on the cold surfaces. I should probably put some turbo roof vents up, but but haven't so far. If I were rich,:cool2: the place would be insulated and heated to 50* to eliminate the temperature differential. The rodent problem has been taken care of with rat bait. When the bait stops disappearing, the rodents are gone.

 

[CADplans]

Concrete does not insure a dry shed floor,,

The ONLY way to insure a dry floor, is to have a perfect roof, gutters, and surrounding landscaping,,

My first ever shed build got a 20X20 brick floor in part of it,,,
at the time I had an old tractor that leaked a LOT of oil,, the brick let the oil ooze away.
Another part of the shed got a 5+ inch concrete floor, poured with left over concrete,,
no prep was done, the concrete was poured on dirt,, but, I put re-bar and wire in the concrete.

The floor is perfect 25 years later, no cracks, but,, there is a "hollow" sound when you drop something on that floor,,
I am sure the dirt settled away from the concrete,, so, my floor is more like a "bridge",,, :laughing:

Another shed got perfect concrete,, #57's four inches deep. compacted. with four inches of high strength (expensive) concrete,,
for 15 years, the floor would get wet when it rained,, I thought there was a trapped spring under the floor.

It turned out, there was a spot at the corner of the building, that a clogged gutter could get water ON top of the concrete,,
I moved about 20 shovel full's of dirt, there has never been water in the shed since,,,

AND, I have one part of a storage shed that has gravel,, it is elevated about 4 inches compared to the surrounding landscape,,
That area of the shed is as dry as Arizona during a drought,, there has never been a drop of water in there,,
When we had feral cats,, THAT is the place they lived, I think they loved the fact that it was so dry,,,
There is about a 3 foot roof overhang, and no door to that area,, perfect for the cats,,,

 

[Hiptfarms]

Is that 12 cubes just for the 14x38 section? It does sound like a good idea in my case.

The 12 cubes is for the 14x38 alley and a small patio I plan to add off the side of the barn where i'm actually planning on installing a "summer kitchen" - for canning, beer brewing, fermenting sauerkraut, etc. The plan is a small deck that is partially covered for a pizza oven area and then whatever bricks are left over after the alley will be used for a patio section. I have big plans but unfortunately I'm not as spry as I used to be.

 

[BoneStock]

Gravel is fine to get you off the mud, other than that, it has zero storage benefit.
I would recommend getting the flow of water away from the barn/building.

Here locally asphalt is MUCH cheaper than concrete. Not designed to work on as far as automotive or garage tinkering goes, but would be a good alternative for dry storage.

 

[Deere Dude]

The 12 cubes is for the 14x38 alley and a small patio I plan to add off the side of the barn where i'm actually planning on installing a "summer kitchen" - for canning, beer brewing, fermenting sauerkraut, etc. The plan is a small deck that is partially covered for a pizza oven area and then whatever bricks are left over after the alley will be used for a patio section. I have big plans but unfortunately I'm not as spry as I used to be.

I hiked down to a brick place in Nashville this morning to find the price and availability of old pavers that they couldn't or wouldn't sell. It was for a 40x60' barn. They prices those out at around $10,000 with delivery. Of course that is a non starter. You got a good deal on yours but I kind of expected this from nutso Nashville.

 

[Cord]

I think that would help keep the moisture down, however, I think driving over the 4" of gravel will punch holes through the plastic allowing moisture to come up through.

Although it would be added expense, perhaps a layer of closed cell insulation foam board over the heavy mill plastic would prevent the gravel from puncturing through the layer of plastic.

I does. Know it for a fact. The solution would be to use a heavy plastic like Stego or put layer of sand on either side of the plastic to protect it from punctures.