Husqvarna vs. Stihl

   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #41  
I had a carbide chain from Stihl and maybe there are different grades but I hit a long buried chain in a log and most of the teeth chipped off.. while carbide is very hard it is also very brittle... those babys aren't cheap either.. you can go through a lot of 10 packs from Baileys to pay for one carbide...
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #42  
I looked at a carbide chain and decided it wasn’t a winning proposition for me. They cost a lot up front, take more effort to sharpen, aren’t ever as sharp as a HSS chain and I ruin probably 5 chains a year hitting a gravel in the bark or hidden metal. I think even buying a new HSS chain every time it gets dull is still better than carbide.
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #43  
X2.

I generally plan on touching my chain up after each tank or every other tank of gas (or whenever it's not "self-feeding" into the wood), but I tend to be obsessive about sharp chains (as a chainsaw safety/felling instructor once said: You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull, you sharpen it to keep it from getting dull.) The sharpening break also gives me a chance to "self-assess" how I'm doing. Something I don't pay enough attention to while I'm in the midst of cutting.
When it comes to sharpening, do yourself a favor and invest in a two in one sharpener. It sharpens the cutters, and lowers the depth gauges at the same time. I bought the Stihl brand for about $43.00. It is just an awesome system for chain sharpening.stihl 2 in 1 sharpener | eBay
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #44  
I have a MS241 also. It's a sweet smaller saw. Comparing the empty head weight only it's not that much lighter than the 261 but it's significantly lighter with bar chain and fluids. The bar and chain are narrower 3/8 LP and it holds less fluids. Runs and handles well and easy to start. But the 261 is a much better deal. My dealer didn't want to sell me a 241, he said everyone gets the 261 instead for only $20 more. I already had a MS362 and a 34cc Echo and wanted something in between the two like my old 025, but easier to start than the 025. The 261 is too close to the 362 for me. The 362 gets used for felling and bucking, except when the tree's over 2' where I use the 460. The 241 is good for limbing and larger brush. The Echo CS352 is a nice little brush saw, very light and easy to start.

There's a lot of ways to sharpen chains, so you can pick what works for you. I hand file 90-95% of the time. I had a lot of practice doing that when I worked for the USFS. The trick is to make sure you're filing the underside of the tooth. That's what the simpler guides like the Oregon guide that fits around the file do for you. The more complicated guides like the Granberg File N Joint do that and also set the angles. I've tried those and the Stihl equivalent and don't like them. I don't see much use for a tool that automatically sets the depth gauges. I file them with a gauge every 5 filings and they don't need much filing. I could go longer. I sharpen my chains every 2 tanks max. More often if it needs it. A sharp chain is a happy chain.
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #45  
When it comes to sharpening, do yourself a favor and invest in a two in one sharpener. It sharpens the cutters, and lowers the depth gauges at the same time. I bought the Stihl brand for about $43.00. It is just an awesome system for chain sharpening.stihl 2 in 1 sharpener | eBay

I've tried the Stihl 2 in 1 (which is actually a rebadged Pferd Chainsharp CS-X). My friend has one and loves it. I found it fast and easy to use, but my chains cut better with either the Swedish Roller Guide Husqvarna sells, or the plate that clips to the file that Oregon sells
Roller file guide.JPG Oregon_File_holder.jpg
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #46  
I have both, cut 50 or so trees a year. I dont have a preference. They are both great saws. Currently my choice is a Stihl MS 362 for the felling/bucking and a MS 241 for the limbing. For limbing the lighter the better...I have been considering an electric for this as well. Have 2 Huskys and still use them also.

This is the exact same pair of Stihl saws I have. I have the -C version of both because M-Tronics is nice. The 362 really rips through stuff! And the 241 is fast.



The MS 241 is a rare bird, it gets good reviews but does not seem too popular. I have been eying it for limbing as you use it for. How do you like it? What size bar do you have on it? What saw chain?

I have a 16" on my 241-C because it's for limbing (I have a 362 for anything that needs a bigger bar - 18", 25", and 32"). I love it! I'm just using the chain that came with it ("Picco Super 3"). I think it's a "green" chain (low kick-back). It is a Picco chain so it is narrower and takes less effort to cut through. It feels like it has as much power as my 362 because of this. 16" is I think the longest bar you can get the 3/8" Picco chain on. I tried to find a used one but only came across one used on ebay, lost out last second. I ended up getting one for $100 off at the tractor dealer when I bought my tractor. They couldn't throw anything else in on the deal so he offered me that. Well worth the investment!
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #47  
I have a MS241 also. [snip] I already had a MS362

Seems like a popular combo. :thumbsup:

I do wish I had a 661 to go with... Can't quite justify it for the very few times I need it.
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #48  
I bought one of the huztl 660 kits for that reason. Also it'll be fun to put together. I've had some 5' trees to cut where the 460 takes it's time with a 32" bar. huztl has assembled 660 clones now for ~100 more than the kit. They were brand new when I bought my kit so I went with the known quantity but reviews since then are positive. It's not going to be as good as a Stihl but for occasional use instead professional it might be ok.
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #49  
Maybe I'm sharpening wrong but I still have a little tooth left when the chain has stretched to the point where it's junk. I can't see switching to a chain with a tooth that would last longer but not the chain. I switched to only using Stihl full chisel pro chains. They easily hold an edge for the whole day of my use.
 
   / Husqvarna vs. Stihl #50  
Maybe I'm sharpening wrong but I still have a little tooth left when the chain has stretched to the point where it's junk. I can't see switching to a chain with a tooth that would last longer but not the chain. I switched to only using Stihl full chisel pro chains. They easily hold an edge for the whole day of my use.

Two major contributors to chain stretch: Not keeping your chain sharp, and not getting it properly lubricated. If you are truly cutting "the whole day" without sharpening, I suspect that your chain sharpness is is part of your chain stretch problem. The duller the teeth, the more the chain, the drive sprocket, and the saws crankshaft & bearings are taking a beating with each chip cut (it's also harder on the operator). This could vary depending on what a "whole day of cutting" entails: A full day of blocking up hardwood for firewood takes a lot more out of a chain than a full day of felling white pine (especially if your taking your time felling, or if some time is spent skidding out the trees). If the wood is dirty, that will wear chains much more rapidly.

Stihl chains are known for holding their edge well, and for stretching less than some other brands. However, even so they do need touching up. I use Oregon LGX chain on my saws (a full-chisel chain), it stretches more than Stihl chain, but even so, I'm able to use all of my chains until all that is left of them is a little triangle of cutter tooth (I usually discard them when they are filed back to the witness mark).

I'm considering trying a couple loops of Oregon's new EXL chain. It's supposed to stretch less and hold an edge well. If it sharpens as easily as the LGX, it could be a winner (though I'm guess the longer lasting edge means harder steel, which may mean tougher sharpening).
 

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