Fast dump and full curl not working correctly

[K5lwq]

It is unlikely to be the valve. Just follow the steps LD1 gave you and we will have a better understanding.

 

[Coyote machine]

I only got to the innermost hose and disconnected it and cleaned both ends. Reinstalled it and tried it just to see what was what. No change. Doing the rest tomorrow when I may have more time.

Question: does anyone know which disconnects go to what function(s)? We have a snow/ice storm coming overnight/tomorrow and it would be great to know what to disconnect/clean etc. so I maybe able to regain curl/dump, even if I have to loose raise/lower temporary.

K5lwq, what makes you think it's not the valve- just curious?

TIA,
CM

 

[K5lwq]

I am not saying it can't be a valve problem, it is just unlikely. Valves can last many years with no real change in performance. I question the valve being the issue because the issue appeared more suddenly. I could see it being a joystick or cable problem.

However, because you stated you hear the relief tells me the spool is moving in both directions directing flow from return to the cylinder. Because something has the flow blocked completely off, the cylinder can't move. I am still leaning towards a quick disconnect problem.

I would not even worry about cleaning the disconnects so much at this time. With the tractor off, cycle the joystick in all directions several times. Disconnect each hose and reconnect making sure they snap securely in place.

If you still have the issue, disconnect again and move the two hoses from one spool to the other. Try to keep up with which hose is which. Then see what happens.

 

[Billrog]

Bent cylinder rod ?

 

[K5lwq]

Possible Billrog, I am just hoping for a simple fix. :thumbsup:

 

[ritcheyvs]

Most likely a quick coupler not fully engaged and locked, as others mentioned. Those things can be disengaged but look completely normal. There is no guarantee which coupler is which based on location; just follow the hoses on the loader. Also, could your diverter be energized (or stuck) without a grapple or other load connected?

 

[Coyote machine]

The QDs on the valve are color coded and so are the hose ends. I don't think a cyl rod is bent, they both are trying to move in curl and dump, but can't, and instantly make the overload/relief sound if pushed to the far end of the joystick travel.
I too have thought about something in the diverter circuit blocking proper operation of the curl/dump cycle. I will check the wires running to the diverter valve especially since the wires could be chafing or shorting out along the way back to the valve. The wires are not sleeve protected and there are places where they could have worn down to bare metal. Since the most recent use other than bucket and forks was the grapple, it is possible the diverter is suspect. I will check it out tomorrow.

Thanks all for your insights- its been very helpful so far. We'll get there; I'm confident of that. :thumbsup:

 

[ritcheyvs]

FYI, it's easy (and common) for debris (e.g. brush) to trip the collar on a quick coupler and release it but in such a way that it still appears connected.

Glad if you can still see the colors. Mine were on paper bands that are all but gone.

With the engine off (but key on) my diverter makes a very audible "clack" when engaged and released, you might listen to that for a clue on diverter function.

Also, the diverter valve should be in the normal (curl/dump) position when unpowered. So you might try unhooking the diverter electrical connector to see if that restores curl/dump.

 

[Coyote machine]

FYI, it's easy (and common) for debris (e.g. brush) to trip the collar on a quick coupler and release it but in such a way that it still appears connected.

Glad if you can still see the colors. Mine were on paper bands that are all but gone.

With the engine off (but key on) my diverter makes a very audible "clack" when engaged and released, you might listen to that for a clue on diverter function.

Also, the diverter valve should be in the normal (curl/dump) position when unpowered. So you might try unhooking the diverter electrical connector to see if that restores curl/dump.

I know! The first time I had a hired site tech and my builder walking in front of me when I had just bought my DK-35, and coming out of the woods where I was digging test pits I hit one of the QDs on a sapling stump and I immediately had no control of some FEL function, and I was hurtling toward them trying to figure out what was going on - I dammm near ran them down being distracted and they were paying no attention to me being behind them. I figured out- in that instance the entire male fitting was disconnected- what had gone wrong. Too close a call!

I have in this current episode tugged on the male disconnects and wiggled them around- BUT I have not yet completely dis and reconnected.
We'll see what the results are. I will definitely test the diverter as you outlined- it's definitely on my suspect list!:confused3:

 

[K5lwq]

I missed the part about having a diverter! Definitely would be high on the list. :thumbsup: