Defroster in Cab

[Avenger]

As the weather turns colder, the frost and fog on the glass is becoming a problem. I crank on the heater, turn on all the vents, but they really dont point to the glass. The ones in the front do, and work quite well to see forward, the back glass is ok with the vents pointed back (the ones above my head), but the side glass is the problem. There does not seem to be vents pointed to the side to help with defrosting the glass. Has anyone ran into this issue with these tractors before?

On the farm, our cab tractors seemed to have vents point-able all over. Never thought that would be an issue for the LS Cab, but maybe I am wrong? Thoughts?

 

[thekkfan]

Make sure you have the AC on to pull the moisture out. Leave the temp over to heat.

 

[George2615]

X2 what thekkfan said.

 

[ruffdog]

Like the others have said...the air needs to be DRY. Warm and humid air blown against cold glass will always fog up.

 

[Avenger]

Yeah, forgot to mention that. I have the AC on too.

 

[ruffdog]

Does your VAC bring in outside air or does it just recirculate the cab air? Can you crack a window?

 

[Avenger]

My selector for outside air is broken. I believe it is stuck on re-circulation, which I believe is better for removing humidity, isn't it?

 

[George2615]

My windows do get fogged up at first coming out of a warm 45 deg. garage into below 30 deg. air temps. But, once the tractor warms up and is putting out good heat mine gets so hot inside I open the right side cab window and cut the temp back halfway. Windows stay clear after its warm inside.

 

[ruffdog]

My selector for outside air is broken. I believe it is stuck on re-circulation, which I believe is better for removing humidity, isn't it?

When the outside air is cold and dry, it would help to use some of that air. Cold air holds less moisture so it is naturally drier.

 

[dnw64]

My selector for outside air is broken. I believe it is stuck on re-circulation, which I believe is better for removing humidity, isn't it?

No!

You are a moisture creating machine, you need to get rid of it.

 

[Trillium Farm]

My selector for outside air is broken. I believe it is stuck on re-circulation, which I believe is better for removing humidity, isn't it?

That's your problem! You let in humidity everytime you open the doors and while sitting there you are producing humidity and all ths humidity has nowhere to go. Get thet outside air selector fixed.

 

[ArlyA]

While using cabbed UTV's in the winter, we suffered with fogged glass much. What helped was an interior fan, like you'd sometimes see in trucks or school buses. Plus washing all the interior glass with anti-fog chemicals. And of course venting with outside air. Hope that helps!

 

[Avenger]

Alright! Good answers all!! I will take a look at the outside air selector and see about getting it fixed. An external fan is a good idea too, but maybe too evasive and nightmareish to install. I'll try with a side window open and see if that helps.

I figured it was due to lack of air flow over the windows. To be honest, I totally forgot about the selector being broken until someone mentioned it. I have no idea which way it is stuck. Could be open to outside already.

Thank you all for the responses. I will do more digging and hopefully be able to see out this winter!

 

[ArlyA]

If you have a power outlet, adding a cab fan shouldn't be all that hard to do. We did it for 2 subsequent 2 UTV's. Not a great photo of it, but I'll add it anyway.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Yeah, forgot to mention that. I have the AC on too.

Do you think the engine not getting warm enough to get the AC to work (typically underhood temps of around 35 degrees and below AC will not work)? If so, first try partially blocking off your radiator with some cardboard to see if raising the operating temp helps. Second, ask your dealer if your foggy windows problem is common to your machine and ask your dealer for suggestions.

FWIW, even with a blocked off radiator, my teir 4 tractor couldn't get up to operating temp in the cold and the windows were perma-frosty. The foggy windows, low power problems from a plugged up DPF that never got hot enough to be able to regenerate problems all went away when I installed a higher opening temperature thermostat that allows the engine to retain more heat before opening up to the radiator.

Good luck.

 

[Avenger]

Do you think the engine not getting warm enough to get the AC to work (typically underhood temps of around 35 degrees and below AC will not work)? If so, first try partially blocking off your radiator with some cardboard to see if raising the operating temp helps.

I use something similar to the cardboard trick in my truck. However, with temps in the 20s it is not needed on the tractor currently. When I am out working on the tractor, either plowing snow or logging, the engine is revved up. The temps run mostly normal, as in, not too cold. However, when I first start it up, I do let it sit and idle for a bit to get warmed up. This melts most of the frost and leaves behind fog on the inside of the doors and side glass where the HVAC vents do not point. The engine temps are still a bit cold, but that is only after ~10-15mins of high idle. Once I get going, the engine gets warm.

Second, ask your dealer if your foggy windows problem is common to your machine and ask your dealer for suggestions.

My dealer does not seem to know anything or care. That is why I asked here.

I installed a higher opening temperature thermostat that allows the engine to retain more heat before opening up to the radiator.

Seems legit, but do you replace it again in the summer when temps get warmer? If so, that's a pain!

Good luck.

Thanks!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I use something similar to the cardboard trick in my truck. However, with temps in the 20s it is not needed on the tractor currently. When I am out working on the tractor, either plowing snow or logging, the engine is revved up. The temps run mostly normal, as in, not too cold. However, when I first start it up, I do let it sit and idle for a bit to get warmed up. This melts most of the frost and leaves behind fog on the inside of the doors and side glass where the HVAC vents do not point. The engine temps are still a bit cold, but that is only after ~10-15mins of high idle. Once I get going, the engine gets warm.



My dealer does not seem to know anything or care. That is why I asked here.



Seems legit, but do you replace it again in the summer when temps get warmer? If so, that's a pain!



Thanks!

Before the T-stat swap my tractor's temp guage sat in the middle of its warm range, straight up. However I had major drivability issues and low power problems that got me looking into solving the issue. Since mine was if not the very first tractor of its type sold in North America, amoung the first tractors of its type sold in North America, my dealer didn't know what to do. As a tech, I knew many OEMs were swapping out warmer T-stats to sort out the problems that my tractor experienced. That said, I leave the T-stat in year round but pull the carbboard above 35-40 degrees.

 

[PILOON]

My cab is a DIY thing.
I have heat and also occasionally the windows do fog up.
What I did is mount a computer 'cube' fan on a swivel base so as to aim it where needed.
The fan moves enough air to completely de fog the windows ASAP.
Moving air is the secret!

Once the cab gets warmed up there is no longer a problem.
I would believe it is all about 'dew point' as we learned about in aviation and the need for carb heat.

 

[dnw64]

Interesting point I just remembered.

I've been having trouble with fogging in my Kubota factory cab. I have not yet had a chance to operated it with outside air (didn't know I had the option) and AC, so my comments are anecdotal.

Anyways, I have an afermarket Curtis Cab on my GC2300, with heat only. Never had any issues with fogging. Maybe a combo of mostly thin vinyl "windows" and the far-from-tightly sealed skirting etc.

 

[LouNY]

An extra fan moving air around will definitely help as will outside air and the AC.
In the winter I coverup the air inlet on my grill, yes the thermostat will try and keep the engine warmed up but your hydraulic cooler is also working to well many times.
Even my pickup has a winter cover on the grill, it came with the truck and to be used below 30-40 degrees F.