Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap

   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap
  • Thread Starter
#41  
This is complicated and hard to explain.

If the tractor is static with the front tires touching the ground you will take weight off the rear axle as you add it to the front. But the payoff isn't 1 to 1. The fulcrum for this weight distribution and relief on the rear is the front axle. So a pound added close to that fulcrum might only relieve a couple ounces off the rear axle. The exact number would require some very accurate measurements.

If the front tires are airborne and you start adding weight you actually increase the load on the rear axle until the front tires start applying weight to the ground. At that time the scenario described above applies.

That wasn't complicated at all. It makes perfect sense about the front axle being the fulcrum. I haven't been able to find the rear axle rating of the B7100, so that's really my only concern at this point. If I knew I wasn't overloading the rear axle, I'd just drop a little weight on the front to keep it from doing wheelies and not worry about it. I'm not going to be carrying this chipper miles... It will be relocated on a 5 acre parcel that is flat land.
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #42  
Hey; if this is just temporary and on basically flat ground, here's a slightly different thought - maybe there's a way you could just add a couple of "wheelie bars" temporarily on the rear of the CHIPPER itself - a couple of 8" steel or urethane casters on a couple pieces of square tube or unistrut sticking out the back, that hang down maybe a couple inches more than the chipper skids (if it has those) - then, when you're moving the chipper only raise the hitch enough to clear the ground a few inches - if the front end comes up on you the wheelie bars will keep it from doing it very much, and your new-found secret of separate brake pedals could be gently applied as necessary -

Then, if you decide to NOT keep the B7100 it will NOT have been modified, so probably would bring a better price.

More than ONE way to skin a Kubota :D ...Steve
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #43  
Now, I like that idea... A class 3 hitch on the front and then I can add a weight hanging off the hitch... Not sure how to attach the hitch. Might require some fabrication. There's nothing up front to easily attach a hitch to on this tractor.
I'd build a block of concrete with legs and a 2in OD square tube out of the side. Legs being there so you put a floor jack under it easily to put it in the receiver.

I've also cut 1in plate by tracing an actual suitcase weight as a template. Mike steel is not as heavy as cast iron so that's why we did that on a pulling tractor to be right on the weight class max. To the lbs!!! They looked great too,. Cleaned up the cuts with a grinder and painted them
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #44  
Hey; if this is just temporary and on basically flat ground, here's a slightly different thought - maybe there's a way you could just add a couple of "wheelie bars" temporarily on the rear of the CHIPPER itself - a couple of 8" steel or urethane casters on a couple pieces of square tube or unistrut sticking out the back, that hang down maybe a couple inches more than the chipper skids (if it has those) - then, when you're moving the chipper only raise the hitch enough to clear the ground a few inches - if the front end comes up on you the wheelie bars will keep it from doing it very much, and your new-found secret of separate brake pedals could be gently applied as necessary -

Then, if you decide to NOT keep the B7100 it will NOT have been modified, so probably would bring a better price.

More than ONE way to skin a Kubota :D ...Steve

Good idea . Also mentioned in post #29.
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #45  
If building a suitcase weight bracket for a SCUT or small CUT turn the weights so they stack sideways. Don't stick nearly as far.
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #46  
"Also mentioned in post #29" - Dang, Terry, how'd I miss that??!? Oh, nevermind; Great minds, same track, but more easily "de-railed" with age :laughing:

But as usual, mine's explained MUCH more TEDIOUSLY :D:D:D...Steve
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #47  
Oh, BTW TravelRider; if you decide on Terry's (and my :D )"wheelie bar" idea, make sure you get SWIVEL casters - if your tractor's front wheels are off the ground, you basically have a "backward" "oversized shopping cart", so if you use your "steering brakes" the casters will need to swivel or they may break off... Steve
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #48  
Oh, BTW TravelRider; if you decide on Terry's (and my :D )"wheelie bar" idea, make sure you get SWIVEL casters - if your tractor's front wheels are off the ground, you basically have a "backward" "oversized shopping cart", so if you use your "steering brakes" the casters will need to swivel or they may break off... Steve

Maybe the caster assembly could consist of a vertically spring loaded shaft.
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #49  
I am needing ideas as well. I have a B6100 two wheel drive that I purchased this summer, along with a 5 foot bush hog. This combo was purchased new together. The front end comes up with the bush hog attached, plus 66 lbs of train rail. I found out that the mower should have been a 4 foot or smaller, however, I have what I have. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
 
   / Front ballast / Suitcase weights - DIY or cheap #50  
I am needing ideas as well. I have a B6100 two wheel drive that I purchased this summer, along with a 5 foot bush hog. This combo was purchased new together. The front end comes up with the bush hog attached, plus 66 lbs of train rail. I found out that the mower should have been a 4 foot or smaller, however, I have what I have. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
I looked it up and that is a small Kubota.
I would consider selling the 5ft bush hog and getting one better suited for the tractor.
Otherwise if you're on fairly level ground and not cutting anything too much of a load for it you would have to fabricate front weight.
Around here as I mentioned before Goodwill and thrift stores sell barbell weights not expensive. Then I'm thinking use steel or iron pipe across front, spaced out a foot or so, 90 degree elbows each side with a flange attached to frame.
I have a small Power King Economy tractor that I put an electric winch on the front. I have plastic coated weights tied onto it (weights lay on top of winch for support).
 

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