Replacing Bolts On ROPS With a Hitch Pin????

[mapper]

Yeah, Kubota should do the same thing.

I think my neighbors B26xx series that he bought last summer has a pin similar to mine, I know he can drop it quickly (and I haven't heard him gripe about it).

 

[CMV]

Grade 8 pin?

Dale

I got them at TSC & they are gr 5. If I'm remembering right, they only came in gr 5 or not stated (meaning gr 2) in the store. There was nothing similar in gr 8 in the store.

I fit the description described previously - either this simple/quick way with the lower grade pin or down out of laziness/convenience.

Also to note....going from gr2 to gr 5 is roughly double the shear strength. Going from gr 5 to gr 8 is roughly 20% more shear strength. So obviously more is better and gr 8 / 10.9 is preferred. But since those apparently don't exist/aren't readily available, gr 5 is best compromise and is a lot stronger than a basic fastener.

 

[WranglerX]

I got them at TSC & they are gr 5. If I'm remembering right, they only came in gr 5 or not stated (meaning gr 2) in the store. There was nothing similar in gr 8 in the store.

I fit the description described previously - either this simple/quick way with the lower grade pin or down out of laziness/convenience.

Also to note....going from gr2 to gr 5 is roughly double the shear strength. Going from gr 5 to gr 8 is roughly 20% more shear strength. So obviously more is better and gr 8 / 10.9 is preferred. But since those apparently don't exist/aren't readily available, gr 5 is best compromise and is a lot stronger than a basic fastener.

Got to remember TSC is the "Home Depot" for tractor stuff.... I try to buy all my serious needs stuff at local agricultural supply that servers commercial agriculture for the masses... Also seem to have better quality and usually better stocked store and closer to me than TSC (just a bonus to me)...

Grade 8 Hitch Pins Archives - PaulB Parts - Ag, Industrial, and Mechanical Supply

Side note, unmarked pins are grade 2, red pins are grade 5 and blue pins are grade 8...

Dale

 

[CMV]

Bookmarking that link - thanks! Those are about same cost than gr5 from TSC 3/4 x 4" were my size if I remember right. Handles look a bit smaller too which is nice. Mine are much larger than they need to be.

 

[WranglerX]

Bookmarking that link - thanks! Those are about same cost than gr5 from TSC 3/4 x 4" were my size if I remember right. Handles look a bit smaller too which is nice. Mine are much larger than they need to be.

Found this catalog pretty interesting...

https://brabereq.com/Catalogs/BECO Catalog_VOL14B.pdf

Dale

 

[AGTtactical]

I find this info very useful guys. Thanks. I guess I'm not the only one who finds using pins a time saver, especially if you have to do it everyday. I started another thread on the subject and I was told by Farmer495 from Canada that "I raise and lower the ROPS on an M7040SU everytime it goes into my garage. No issue with pulling the pin, and threading them in and out everytime. It's not that hard?" He also claimed he could do this in 20 secs, LOL.

 

[jeff9366]

I believe the ROPS are made in Kubota plants in Georgia, not Japan.


After you hit your garage header a couple times, plus a few tree branches, the ROPS will vary a few 1,000s, so the pin holes do not line up.

On the front of the ROPS there is a lesser diameter welded on nut on each side, which I am sure is there so one can insert a bolt as a stop, to line up the ROPS pin holes again. I have yet to figure out exactly what hex bolt should become the stop, but I am working on it. As stops will seldom be moved I will lube with anti-seize compound rather than anything else.

Also, eventually you will want to adjust coarse-thread pinch bolts. Toss the used traditional cotter pins. Replace with ring cotters or readily available spring-steel key circles. I use the latter.

Confirming welded on nuts on the front of the ROPS take 3/8" - 24 thread per inch (fine thread) X 1" bolts to align the ROPS holes. Tight fit the last 1/8", probably due to paint in threads. Turn well lubricated bolts with a wrench the final 1/8" during first insertion.

Tractor Supply Company (TSC) has 3/8" fine thread bolts NOT in the bulk section, where 3/8" bolts are coarse thread, but in the Grade 8 drawers, in two-bolt packs.



As stops will seldom be moved I suggest lubricating bolts with anti-seize compound.


It is possible Grade 8, 5/8" pins with handles referenced in Post #53/MEISEN will fit properly if 3/8"-24 X 1" bolts are used to perfectly align ROPS.



I am staying with 9/16" X 4" clevis pins.

 

[Handloader109]

My little cabelas has pins to drop rops. Makes it easy

 

[AGTtactical]

It is possible Grade 8, 5/8" pins with handles referenced in Post #53/MEISEN will fit properly if 3/8"-24 X 1" bolts are used to perfectly align ROPS. I am staying with 9/16" X 4" clevis pins.

A 5/8" pin would definitely not fit...the nut welded to the ROPS into which the ROPS bolt fits has an inside diameter less than 5/8". It would be very nice if someone made a Grade 8 pin in 9/16"...that would iindeed be perfect.

 

[jmc]

A 5/8" pin would definitely not fit...the nut welded to the ROPS into which the ROPS bolt fits has an inside diameter less than 5/8". It would be very nice if someone made a Grade 8 pin in 9/16"...that would iindeed be perfect.

Anybody with a lathe and a mill (or drillpress) could do this easily- hobbiest or vocational training school.

Buy 5/8" grade 8 bolts long enough so the unthreaded section is at least long enough to extend beyond the welded-on nut and preferably, enough extra length for the retaining pin hole. Cutoff the extra length, turn down a step long enough for the welded nut section, and drill a cross hole. Chamfer the cutoff end so it won't mushroom. Yeah, they're hardened but proper tooling won't notice much. A twelve pack of beer ought to cover it.