Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[retiredfarmer]

Good to hear. I bought one on eBay and apparently it needs some welding on the housing, otherwise it is complete. Hopefully I can weld it back up and get it operational.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

Fallon or Others,

Do you think the duckfoot (single piece knife) see picture in the below link, these could be run with the same spacing as your "Y" cut (two piece knives)?

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...wers-170357d1278268119-lets-talk-flail-mowers

Those are actually the original style blade that came on the 917 course cut mowers. So, yes, they will work in the course cut setting. I believe it's every 3rd hole you use and staggered each row for course cut. Mine had those, but I switched to the side slicers for a few reasons. One being price. The other being strength against woody materials to knock down after 20 years of growth.

 

[dieselscout80]

Those are actually the original style blade that came on the 917 course cut mowers. So, yes, they will work in the course cut setting. I believe it's every 3rd hole you use and staggered each row for course cut. Mine had those, but I switched to the side slicers for a few reasons. One being price. The other being strength against woody materials to knock down after 20 years of growth.

I have course cut delta wing knives currently, but I’m wondering if I can get more of to get a better cut.

 

[Fallon]

I have course cut delta wing knives currently, but I’m wondering if I can get more of to get a better cut.

My 917 came with a partial set of side slicers & I replaced them with almost a full set (miscounted so had to reuse a few of the old ones that were in good shape). I can't say I ever thought about swapping really. The side slicers give a great cut quality for fields. They work on brush up to finger size but much beyond that they dont have the weight to do much more than gnaw the bark off. The scoop knives may give a better cut, but you'd need a lawn as opposed to pasture or field to be able to tell.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

I have course cut delta wing knives currently, but I’m wondering if I can get more of to get a better cut.

You could probably go every other hole and increase the number of blades. not sure how much better of a cut you'd get as these should overlap a little bit and they're flat on the bottom (as opposed to they "Y" shaped side slicers). You could change it over to fine cut blades and use all the holes if you want a good lawn quality cut. The 917 is versatile like that. You would need all new hangers and links to switch.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Getting my JD 25A ready for Spring. The anti-wrap is going to work well. I welded a thick walled piece of DOM tube concentric to center of the bolt shim. I then welded a piece of 5/16" rod to the end of the rotor. The stub has 1/16" radial clearance to the DOM collar. Axial clearance to the rotor will be 3/16". I also added grease fittings to both bearing housings. I had to get creative on the drive end and placed the zerts in the steel plate cover with a matching hole in the bearing housing.

I'm having trouble loading photos directly from my tablet.

 

[def38]

Getting my JD 25A ready for Spring. The anti-wrap is going to work well. I welded a thick walled piece of DOM tube concentric to center of the bolt shim. I then welded a piece of 5/16" rod to the end of the rotor. The stub has 1/16" radial clearance to the DOM collar. Axial clearance to the rotor will be 3/16". I also added grease fittings to both bearing housings. I had to get creative on the drive end and placed the zerts in the steel plate cover with a matching hole in the bearing housing.

I'm having trouble loading photos directly from my tablet.

I need to see photos of your work so I can do the same.

BTW, it is Zerk, the name of the inventor of the grease fittings we find on our tractors and implements.

 

[shaeff]

Interested in pics here, too!

My 25A needs repair. Two seasons ago I backed into a thick stand of brush and caught a stump, bent the hood enough to contact the knives. Haven’t had time to fix it yet.

 

[mark02tj]

I'm considering a flail mower to cut brush (mostly honeysuckle) on my property. I know it won't do what a forestry mulcher will do, but based on what I've read on this thread, I think it might do a lot of the job for me.

I have a Deere 3520 - 35 HP engine, 30 HP at the PTO. Would that be enough to power a 7' Deere 25-A flail mower? The reason for that specific model is that I found a used one within a reasonable driving distance for a pretty good price. Obviously haven't checked it out yet, but would like your learned opinions on whether or not my mule could handle it.

 

[DavesTractor]

I'm considering a flail mower to cut brush (mostly honeysuckle) on my property. I know it won't do what a forestry mulcher will do, but based on what I've read on this thread, I think it might do a lot of the job for me.

I have a Deere 3520 - 35 HP engine, 30 HP at the PTO. Would that be enough to power a 7' Deere 25-A flail mower? The reason for that specific model is that I found a used one within a reasonable driving distance for a pretty good price. Obviously haven't checked it out yet, but would like your learned opinions on whether or not my mule could handle it.

You have enough HP to run a 7' flail to mow normal height grass and weeds. But cutting brush with it is very questionable. It will require all the HP you got, and maybe more. One option when running an oversize flail in tough conditions is to scoot over after the first pass and only cut a lesser width.

I run a 10' Vrisimo flail with 60 PTO hp in grass and when I do the first cutting in the spring if the grass has gotten a little too long I have to significantly reduce ground speed or take a narrower cut after the first pass.