A little disappointed with Kubota

[SPYDERLK]

At 50 hours I put blue Lok Tite on all my wheel nuts and torqued them down. That was eight years ago. Nothing has loosened up in all that time.

It's hard to believe that any OEM tractor comes with flat wheel nuts and lock washers. It sound like a problem asking for a place to happen.

Must be one H**L of a $$$ saving by using flat nuts and lock washers over standard conical lug nuts.

Conical nuts would cause larger stresses on the hole and very localized clamping in comparison to nuts and washers. I would rather the latter on heavy equipment. But split lock washers bearing on the dish - NOT.

 

[goeduck]

Conical nuts would cause larger stresses on the hole and very localized clamping in comparison to nuts and washers. I would rather the latter on heavy equipment. But split lock washers bearing on the dish - NOT.

Seems to me like tapered (conical) nuts would be fine on a properly designed wheel and hub. May result in thicker wheel material, but it would be a better setup than flat nuts coming loose. Back in the day, flat nuts were used on Mag wheels and had a collar on them to support weight as I recall.

 

[RoyKing]

get new nuts, and some flat bar, drill some snud fitting holes near the edge, take one nut off clean the paint off and fit the washer made from flat bar, leave enough on three sides to weld to. Now make seven more install with new nuts no washers. Tack weld them on three sides, remove finish welding. Don't paint install torque to 200 with lock tite, now paint. Very little money just lots if time

 

[Oldoak]

No. I didnt miss it. I addressed it earlier. The fasteners were likely damaged by the wheel movement. Check recommended torque on Class 10.9 M16 fine thread. I find figures for coarse thread cluster around 250/260. Fine thread will typically accommodate about 10% more. So ~275/285

Torque to yield figures are up to 40% higher - - - ~ 380.

Well if you didn't miss it, you certainly don't understand it. Quote from crazyal:

I made the mistake of going a little past the torque for the bolts and broke one of the studs (which is why I'm posting this).

No matter what torque figures YOU came up with, crazyal said he broke one of the studs just by going a little past the torque for the bolts. And the original torque value stated was only 160 ft-lbs.

 

[RoyKing]

If the studs are damaged put new ones in, that design looks flawed bolts are too close to hub to get large thick flat washers under. New hubs will have same problem, only solution is making you own washers, to increase the clamping area.

 

[RoyKing]

Check to see if Kubota changed the design later and fill for recall repair.

 

[radios1]

as has been stated a couple of times, the lug nuts are supposed to be conical, like car and truck nuts, somebody rigged this for failure, maybe they were just too lazy to get the proper nuts, and used flat nuts, thinking it'll work.. who knows what the original owner was thinking before the OP bought this..

 

[RickB]

as has been stated a couple of times, the lug nuts are supposed to be conical, like car and truck nuts, somebody rigged this for failure, maybe they were just too lazy to get the proper nuts, and used flat nuts, thinking it'll work.. who knows what the original owner was thinking before the OP bought this..

You don’t know that the hardware is supposed to be conical. Until the OP posts a pic of the wheel with a bolt removed I’ll say you are wrong about this application.

 

[LD1]

Based on description, I'd say there is no doubt he is wrong.

Kubota DOES use lock washers under the FLAT nuts, on a FLAT dish. Nothing conical on the rears of either Kubota I have owned.

 

[moship]

All one has to do is look at Kubota's Illustrated parts to see the proper fasteners consist of lock washer and conventional nut for the studs and bolt with lock washer for either R4 or R1 rear wheels.

It would be really nice if people would verify info before they post information and state it as fact.

Good luck to the OP in resolving the issue.