Threw a chain again...

   / Threw a chain again...
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Many new chain designs are much more sized to the tire than the old ladder style.

Having the correct tool to get them tight makes a world of difference.

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After three years with my expensive TRYGG chains, I spent $279 and bought their tool.
It is like having a gorilla help you.

You can make your own tool along the lines of the red or green ones.

Dave M7040

Cool! Do those work on budget chains too? I spent as little as I could find online. Maybe that’s the problem? I have to say, I will never NOT run chains in winter again as long as I live where I live.
I saw a cop demonstrating “how to” put chains on an SUV and his were the v-bar and they had these slick little cam tighteners on the outside of the chain that you turned with some kind of tool to tighten them. Then he also installed the bungee tighteners as well.
 
   / Threw a chain again... #22  
Those are nice tensioners if you feel it necessary to get your chains that tight,
I don't, I find it more important to get the side chains the same length when fastening them.
If they differ by a link or two from side to side they will try and walk.
I just drive mine on and they stay on till the snow and ice is gone in the spring.
 
   / Threw a chain again... #23  
Those are nice tensioners if you feel it necessary to get your chains that tight,
I don't, I find it more important to get the side chains the same length when fastening them.
If they differ by a link or two from side to side they will try and walk.-------------------------------------
Absolutely right. :thumbsup:

I highlighted with bold print what is only common sense and thought everyone who ever has run with chains knew that.

That is why I always hook the inside first and then the outside. More room and much easier to tug on the outside links if needed to match the inside.
 
   / Threw a chain again... #24  
Those are nice tensioners if you feel it necessary to get your chains that tight,
I don't, I find it more important to get the side chains the same length when fastening them.
If they differ by a link or two from side to side they will try and walk.
I just drive mine on and they stay on till the snow and ice is gone in the spring.

Bingo.

I fit new chains well before cold weather each time I buy a set. Invariably, this involves cutting links from the side chains, perhaps a cross link or two, and, sometimes, adding a cross link or two. They must be properly fitted.

I then tighten them as tightly as possible using nothing more than a pair of channel locks, gloves and PATIENCE. With patience and technique I can install them as tight as anyone can with any sort of clamps, etc.

No need to deflate, use special tools, add bungees, etc. They do not move or rattle around.

Then take off and store until needed.

Next proper installation, usually as winter is approaching will take 20-30 minutes for all four on a 30 HP CUT. Add time for larger tractor.

SDT
 
   / Threw a chain again... #25  
Absolutely right. :thumbsup:

I highlighted with bold print what is only common sense and thought everyone who ever has run with chains knew that.

That is why I always hook the inside first and then the outside. More room and much easier to tug on the outside links if needed to match the inside.
I do the same. After you get the chains fitted you know what link you need to hook to every winter when you put them on. I was taught to have the links pointed toward the back as it will supposedly prevent them coming undone; no doubt other people have learned to do it the opposite way for the same reason. The only time that I ever lost a chain was when I bought a used pair for my pickup and they were too narrow for the tire.
 

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