Hydraulic motor advice

   / Hydraulic motor advice #11  
Oldnslo, my plan was to have the pump running whenever the tractor runs and actuate the blower with a valve, also planned to mount a reservoir on the blower itself. I figured on keeping my blade on the 3pt for ballast.

Not to be negative nelly but... If you mount the reservoir on the blower how are you going to run the pump inlet line?

With out a clutch are you going to remove the pump when you remove the blower reservoir assembly?
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The electric clutch mated to a hydraulic pump looks like a good way to go but It looks like I would have to buy them as a set. Also getting the right motor could end of being costly. I realize doing a project like this will cost some money as well as time and I have to admit I'm concerned that at 35hp I may find myself disappointed with how well the blower performs.

Also Oldnslo based on your comments I assume there could be issues regarding oil flow if the lines are too long?

Anyway, I appreciate the advice guys...I think at this point I'm going look at running a drive shaft from the rear pto to the front and setting it up that way. Up to now I have a partially completed sub frame on the tractor that I intended to mount a loader on. I don't really need a loader so I think I'll re-configure things and go with a front 3pt hitch instead.
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #13  
Yes long pump inlet lines can starve the pump of oil

I wish the best on building the front mount system

Is their a mid PTO on your tractor?
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #14  
I have the rear powerpack and blower from Quick Attach for my loader mounted blower. I know it produces 15 gpm at 3,000 psi when operating at 540 rpm on 45 hp tractor. Blows a heck of alot of snow and can move piles 7 feet high ... which i can get when buildings shed. Have bern using it for 8 years now. Best plus is the hydraulic chute rotation, and deverter.. and NO SHEAR PINS.. I cant tell you any specifics on pump though, but there are alot of hoss, deverters, and large hoses. The tank holds 25 gallons of low viscosity hydraulic oil. The oil volume is necessary to keep temps proper. I believe 35 hp is smallest they recommend.
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks Old,no I don't have a mid pto, wish that was the case.

I'm going to post a few questions about electric pto's in the build it yourself section. I was on the Ogura site and it does seem like they offer several models that could work. If I can go that route it would the need for a gearbox and driveshaft and keep my rear pto open for other uses.

Grst thanks, your post is interesting...helps confirm for me that a hydraulic blower probably is not the best choice for me.
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #16  
ya. pretty complicated setup. but i needed to be able to reach up high to clear berms and when shop and barn shed. also my neck is so screwed up ... mostly from 15 years of looking backwards to blow snow. side view blower and bracket 1.jpg snowblower installed.jpg powerpack 1.jpg ready to blow roof.jpg final rear powerpack 1.jpg IMG_20170204_080002602.jpg LEFT TANK SIDE.jpg RIGHT SIDE TANK.jpg rotator  text.jpg
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice
  • Thread Starter
#17  
That's a fine setup, looks like she can really make the snow fly...what speed does the blower run at?
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #18  
That's a fine setup, looks like she can really make the snow fly...what speed does the blower run at?
I actually have no idea. Tonight i as cutting thry wet snow drifts 2 feet thick and just ate them up. I only had 2 snow dams occure in over 3 hours of blowing snow. Got too hot in cab, had to turn on ac for a bit.
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #19  
Why did you pick that particular motor ?

When selecting a hydraulic motor for an application you first look at how much torque the work (or application) requires

NOT arbitrarily grab a motor that looks good from a catalog, and talk about how much torque it “can make”. You have to know how much you NEED before you know if the “can make” number is adequate for what you are trying to do.

Frommthere you calculate displacement needed at pressure available to make the “needed” torque and then look at how much flow you need to accomplish that speed

It’s possible your system doesn’t possess the hydraulic horsepower necessary to operate the machine the way you want, regardless of your motor choice.
 
   / Hydraulic motor advice #20  
Hi
I have a Parker pump on hand that was used on a large industrial forklift to run the cylinders ( I cant seem to find specs for it online)-not sure if its up to the job but if not I will possibly look at a pto driven pump.
Call them and talk to their support department, I have a valve that I got from a forklift and I was able to get the specs (max GPM/Pressure/Open center/Power Beyond) with a phone call.


Thanks for the replies...

My reason for wanting to do this is a result of age related issues with my neck back and hip that are making snow blowing with the 3pt a not too pleasant experience, by going hydraulic I was hoping to mount it on the FEL.

Based on Dave's comments I guess at 35 pto hp maybe my tractor just isn't up to the job. I have considered doing it mechanically using a gearbox and shaft running to the front of the tractor but I would need to make some type of front hitch to mount the blower on.
I have 35 PTO HP and a mechanical back to front PTO shaft powering a 7' Loftness blower on the front of our L3830.

Aaron Z
 

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