Electric Brakes

[AllDodge]

How does the switch in the cab that turns off your surge brakes work? To disable the surge brakes on my boat trailer (so I can back up) I have to get out and put in a metal plug that stops the joint from moving. With the joint immobilized, the hydraulics will not engage. The only way I can see that being controlled from the cab is if there was an electric switch that moved a pin or something that locked the joint that engages the brakes. Just wondering if you have something of that sort, or if there is a completely different design to your surge brakes.

Installed a brake line block off solenoid between master cylinder and brakes. So on approach to where backing is needed, I flip the switch and it does not allow fluid to pass.

They also have bleed back solenoids now which sends all fluid back to the master cylinder. These are nice because they are connected to the backup lights. Shift into reverse and all pressure bleeds off

 

[Reb954]

I saw a commercial last night that reminded me of this thread.

A mechanic in a brake shop is talking to a customer, customer asks for the mechanics thoughts on brakes. Mechanic says the shops motto is "If the brakes don't stop you, something will".

 

[stuckinnj]

FYI - Surge brakes may be illegal in some states. NY is one of them. Somehow U-Haul got an exception, it may be nothing more the state the trailer is registered.
I have electric brakes on my landscape and gooseneck horse trailer. They work great. I use a Prodigy controller that has been moved from vehicle to vehicle without any issues. As mentioned earlier, just buy the plug and play harness.
Horizon Global owns Tekonsha, Reese, Drawtite, Rola, Fulton, Bulldog, Wesbar & Bergman. Basically have all your towing product needs. Not to mention the expertise to purpose fit products to your requirements. They have a knowledge center. Might be worth the phone call and computer time.

 

[AllDodge]

Surge brakes may be illegal in some states. NY is one of them

Only illegal for trailers over 12K

New federal surge brake rules to be effective on April 5

Surge Brakes Declared Legal

 

[PILOON]

My trailer brake story.
Had a 3/4 ton PU and a nice trailer.
Wife wanted some good topsoil.
Good friend loaded the PU and then the trailer, so much so he tamped the soil down to add more 'til springs said stop.
OK, off I went and the lights changed so I needed to stop.
Brakes smoked and faded and I was eyeballing where I would create the less damage.
Lady luck shined on me and lights changed so I was in the clear.
OK, I made it home (slowly) but sure wish I had electric brakes on that trailer.
My shorts were a shade of brown!

 

[wolfpack2]

If you are tech savvy and like playing with your smart phone, Curt Manufacturing has a new brake controller that is part of a 7 pin adapter and is controlled with a smart phone app via Bluetooth. Never owned one and have no experience with it, but it looks like an interesting solution for the OP's issue with a new vehicle every couple of year that may or may not have a controller.

Echo Mobile Brake Controller

 

[Fallon]

If you are tech savvy and like playing with your smart phone, Curt Manufacturing has a new brake controller that is part of a 7 pin adapter and is controlled with a smart phone app via Bluetooth. Never owned one and have no experience with it, but it looks like an interesting solution for the OP's issue with a new vehicle every couple of year that may or may not have a controller.

Echo Mobile Brake Controller

My issue with those is the lack of manual activation. You have a fraction of a second to hit the brake lever/knob to stop trailer sway. I cant even unlock my phone that fast, much less open an app with no tactile feedback. Better than no brakes or surge brakes, but it loses a huge advantage of electric brakes.

 

[Reg]

How does the switch in the cab that turns off your surge brakes work? To disable the surge brakes on my boat trailer (so I can back up) I have to get out and put in a metal plug that stops the joint from moving. With the joint immobilized, the hydraulics will not engage. The only way I can see that being controlled from the cab is if there was an electric switch that moved a pin or something that locked the joint that engages the brakes. Just wondering if you have something of that sort, or if there is a completely different design to your surge brakes.

Trailer drum brakes are SUPPOSED to be "free backing", i.e. the design is such that they are very POOR brakes in reverse.
Search something like "leading shoe brakes" and compare/contrast with "trailing shoe".

It usually works out OK, i.e. launching is USUALLY more a matter of letting the rig go DOWN a fairly steep slope at a slow speed, so you don't need the brakes to work VERY well for that, i.e. walking speed.

Disks on boat trailers (surge actuated) work equally well in forward or reverse, but can be a real problem in reverse, i.e. if backing into a driveway that is an upgrade; so you need to disable them when backing, either
a) with a solenoid operated blocking valve operated by a wire from the trailer plug that connects to the back-up lights, or
b) with a mechanical block that usually has to be set manually, i.e. the Atwood style.

 

[Reg]

My issue with those is the lack of manual activation. You have a fraction of a second to hit the brake lever/knob to stop trailer sway. I cant even unlock my phone that fast, much less open an app with no tactile feedback. Better than no brakes or surge brakes, but it loses a huge advantage of electric brakes.

THAT is a very good point - and a move that needs to be PRACTICED !
Whenever I hook up a trailer I check the manual override on the controller (called the "trolley brake" in various CDL literature and license exams).
I check again as I start to move at about walking pace - yes the trailer brakes ALONE do slow the truck and trailer so everything is connected and working - this check also reminds my subconscious where the manual override is.
I have only had to use it a couple of times to get me out of trailer sway, but was SO thankful that the reflex was there.
{I hate to have to admit it, especially HERE, but loading the tractor too far back has been the cause of insufficient tongue load that has lead to sway}

Once in a while I go through a test of the breakaway system, it goes about like this;
1) Get the rig on grass or dirt,
2) pull the trailer plug to simulate the trailer detaching from the truck
3) pull the breakaway pin on the trailer
4) drive forward a couple of feet and check that all trailer wheels have skidded, i.e. all trailer brakes were locked.
5) leave it like that for 10 or 15 minutes to check that the trailer's breakaway battery can hold enough charge to keep those brakes ON (legal requirement is 15 minutes).
6) pull forward again to see that the trailer drags its wheels.

7) Put the breakaway pin back in, reconnect 7 pin trailer plug, finish a normal circle check, etc., get on my way.

CHEAP ain't the way to go with trailers and trailer brakes, we have but one life, etc. and even ONE un-braked thousand pounds wiggling around on a little ball behind me is too much.

 

[zing]

Installed a brake line block off solenoid between master cylinder and brakes. So on approach to where backing is needed, I flip the switch and it does not allow fluid to pass.

They also have bleed back solenoids now which sends all fluid back to the master cylinder. These are nice because they are connected to the backup lights. Shift into reverse and all pressure bleeds off

Ahhhh, that makes sense! I was mentally stuck trying to see how to disable the joint mechanically, but you disabled the fluid flow. Thanks for the explanation.