Tractor Sizing Where to start?

[stmsoccer]

Alright, so I致e not owned a tractor before. To this point I am a market Gardner and use a 30 inch bed system with minimal tillage. The walkways are at 1 apart and things are very compact. I am looking in to land of about 50-60 acres and would like to think about the plausibility of scaling up and using tractors as my main work horse. I知 fine with only slightly raised beds, but would still like a compact system. Obviously the paths can get wider as I expect they値l be based on tire width, but I would like some help at sizing tractors. I understand that the tread is often adjustable, but I simply don稚 know enough about used and older model tractors to make a wise investment. I know that I will use a 3 point hitch for my equipment and it looks like the 4 foot bed width with a 32 top is most practical. I also know that with my landscape, I am likely looking at the 40-50 ho range to handle tough ground and some hills Any help in giving me a good direction or even some models to keep an eye out for in auctions would be appreciated.

 

[nybirdman]

I worked our large garden with a Kubota L3130(2004 model) that was 4 wheel drive,31 H.P.,HST transmission
R1 tires and front end loader.Perfect tool for the job.Not too wide,infinite ground speed with the HST and plenty of power for a two bottom plow,roto-tiller ect.
Lots of similar models from all manufacturers but Kubota is king for small units.
Go to TractorData.com - information on all makes and models of tractors and look at 25-40 H.P. units for years built and features and TractorHouse.com | Used Tractors For Sale: John Deere, Case IH, New Holland, Kubota. for used available.

 

[Tennsawdust]

Alright, so I致e not owned a tractor before. To this point I am a market Gardner and use a 30 inch bed system with minimal tillage. The walkways are at 1 apart and things are very compact. I am looking in to land of about 50-60 acres and would like to think about the plausibility of scaling up and using tractors as my main work horse. I知 fine with only slightly raised beds, but would still like a compact system. Obviously the paths can get wider as I expect they値l be based on tire width, but I would like some help at sizing tractors. I understand that the tread is often adjustable, but I simply don稚 know enough about used and older model tractors to make a wise investment. I know that I will use a 3 point hitch for my equipment and it looks like the 4 foot bed width with a 32 top is most practical. I also know that with my landscape, I am likely looking at the 40-50 ho range to handle tough ground and some hills Any help in giving me a good direction or even some models to keep an eye out for in auctions would be appreciated.

How much of that land are you planning to work and are you planning to do more than large gardens? That would impact what type of tractor you would want.

The first thing I would do is figure out what dealers are in your area. If you have never owned a tractor before then you will need some support and advice. The dealer may be more important than the brand you ultimately choose. Fortunately, there are a number of very good tractors out there in the 40-50 hp range. The larger brands are probably better represented in your area, but don't toss out the smaller brands (like Kioti, Branson, TYM and LS) if there is a good dealer nearby. One of the better dealers in my area has been a Kioti dealer for a long time and now carries LS as well. As you look around I think you will find that the field narrows itself somewhat and you can ask more specifically about particular tractor models. I would strongly encourage you to take some time to go out and look at and climb on a few different tractors to get a feel for what you like and don't like about them.

 

[jeff9366]

Enter your LOCATION into your T-B-N PROFILE.

LOCATION will allow more tailored, less generic, replies.



The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

The lowest gear in many clutch & gear compact tractors moves the tractor forward too fast for many garden applications. HST transmissions have infinite speed control integral to the HST design and would be my preference.

I suggest a bare tractor weight of at least 3,500 pounds, bare tractor weight. Every tractor producer has a model in this weight range about 60" wide.

One example:

I worked our large garden with a Kubota L3130 (2004 model) that was 4 wheel drive, 31 H.P., HST transmission, R1 tires and front end loader. Perfect tool for the job. Not too wide, infinite ground speed with the HST and plenty of power for a two bottom plow, roto-tiller etc.

Lots of similar models from all manufacturers but Kubota is king for small units.

Here is a vender for market garden implements: Buckeye Tractor Co -- Online

Two informative videos: So you want to TRADE UP for a new Tractor? - TMT - YouTube

How To Evaluate A Used Tractor - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

The first thing I would do is figure out what dealers are in your area. As you have never owned a tractor before you will need some support and advice. The dealer may be more important than the brand you ultimately choose.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors, qualified to perform their own maintenance.

 

[kthompson]

I would first lock down the width of my raised beds. All tractors do not have same options in tractors widths. Even the same model can have different options in the width of the tractor. Some tractors you change the width on the rear wheels by sliding on the axle (not likely you will find this in size of tractor you are looking at) but most is by reversing the rims in options of the rim and the center and switching the tires from one side to the other. On four wheel drive tractor based upon the ones I have, very little option in adjusting the width of the front axle. Front axle on two wheel drive is normally easy to adjust. A WARNING, do not change the rear tires from one side to the other with only one jack under the rear of the tractor. Be sure you have two jacks or stands under the rear for such changing as the front axle pivots and the tractor can become unstable and fall off of a single lift point. Damaging tire or tractor or you.

No idea where you are located but there are bedders of different designs, think you will find a four foot or so bedder. Look at the different types before you decide on one. There are some made for produce and some made for tobacco.

The lift will be very important for garden type work, you need one that lifts implement to a good height, a full category one or a cat one and cat two combo. As has been mentioned you need good options in ground speed from very slow to say 5 mph to do the bedding or any cultivation that needs to "throw" dirt.

You will want ag tires and not turf or loader tires. Check the height clearance of the tractor. You will want every inch you can get. That will make an L series Kubota to me a poor choice I think. I have a M6800 and it is lower than I would want for your plans. Some of the older true farm tractors in that size range would be good options.

As has been pointed out you need weight to keep pulling straight for laying off rows and cultivators.

Back to the lift, if you will be using cultivators you need a tractor with a true "draft" option with the lift. The true farming tractors had/have them so the cultivators and such running level as the tractor is running over such as ruts.

Look for produce farmer who has gone moved from a single row system to a two or even four row and you may find tractor and all equipment you want in good shape and at decent price. Talk with tractor dealers to find out who raises produce.

 

[stmsoccer]

I would first lock down the width of my raised beds. All tractors do not have same options in tractors widths. Even the same model can have different options in the width of the tractor. Some tractors you change the width on the rear wheels by sliding on the axle (not likely you will find this in size of tractor you are looking at) but most is by reversing the rims in options of the rim and the center and switching the tires from one side to the other. On four wheel drive tractor based upon the ones I have, very little option in adjusting the width of the front axle. Front axle on two wheel drive is normally easy to adjust. A WARNING, do not change the rear tires from one side to the other with only one jack under the rear of the tractor. Be sure you have two jacks or stands under the rear for such changing as the front axle pivots and the tractor can become unstable and fall off of a single lift point. Damaging tire or tractor or you.

No idea where you are located but there are bedders of different designs, think you will find a four foot or so bedder. Look at the different types before you decide on one. There are some made for produce and some made for tobacco.

The lift will be very important for garden type work, you need one that lifts implement to a good height, a full category one or a cat one and cat two combo. As has been mentioned you need good options in ground speed from very slow to say 5 mph to do the bedding or any cultivation that needs to "throw" dirt.

You will want ag tires and not turf or loader tires. Check the height clearance of the tractor. You will want every inch you can get. That will make an L series Kubota to me a poor choice I think. I have a M6800 and it is lower than I would want for your plans. Some of the older true farm tractors in that size range would be good options.

As has been pointed out you need weight to keep pulling straight for laying off rows and cultivators.

Back to the lift, if you will be using cultivators you need a tractor with a true "draft" option with the lift. The true farming tractors had/have them so the cultivators and such running level as the tractor is running over such as ruts.

Look for produce farmer who has gone moved from a single row system to a two or even four row and you may find tractor and all equipment you want in good shape and at decent price. Talk with tractor dealers to find out who raises produce.

I plan to work approximately 40-50 acres. Tread width is one of the things that has made this a little difficult. I understand how it works and how to calculate it, but looking for tractors with variable, or exact tread is proving a challenge. I have somewhat settled on a 4 foot row with a 32" bed top, even though I'd like a narrower bed, but just for ease of use with mulch layers and other basic equipment the 4 foot is better. I know the process I want to use is a Mold board plow to start and then move to a disk harrow. From there raise and shape beds and use a basket to break up and firm the final seedbed. Since I don't intend on continuing to plow and raised the beds new every year (minimal till), I will more than likely get a drag harrow or raised bed finisher from Buckeye tractor Company. I am in southwest Pennsylvania for those who asked. In truth I was looking at the old L series tractors, but the height did concern me. Though a lot of the field work i do will be on greens and other root vegetables so I don't have need for a ton of height, a little extra would help to cultivate. From what I understand, I am looking somewhere in the low-mid 50's for tread width and I need some reasonable weight for the plows at first. I think I'm also looking in the range of 30-50 hp range too. Does anyone have any criticism or suggestions of tractors that fit the bill for those requirements?

 

[jeff9366]

I am in southwest Pennsylvania for those who asked. I plan to work approximately 40-50 acres.


In truth I was looking at the old L series tractors, but ground clearance did concern me. Though a lot of the field work i do will be on greens and other root vegetables so I don't have need for a ton of height, a little extra would help to cultivate.

From what I understand, I am looking somewhere in the low-mid 50's for tread width and I need some reasonable weight for the plows at first. I'm looking in the range of 30-50 hp range. Does anyone have any criticism or suggestions of tractors that fit the bill for those requirements?

Take time to enter your SW Pennsylvania location in your T-B-N PROFILE, so your location shows with every post.

I would not want to spend enough time on a Standard L to farm 40 t0 50 acres. Too light, too loud.
I would seek a 1,000 pound heavier, older, Grand L series with HST/Plus and a near flat floor. Much easier to swap implements with great space behind a Grand, relative to a Standard L. Grand L will increase your tractor operating productivity significantly.

You need a tractor with 3,500 pounds to 4,500 pounds bare tractor weight. Every manufacturer has tractors in this weight range.

In mid-50's tread width that would be an L3560. Older models were /40 series, /30 series and /10 series.


Kubota L3560
2013 - L60 Series
Compact Utility tractor
Previous models: Kubota L3540, L3430, L3410
Series next: Kubota L4060

Manufacturer: Kubota

Variants:
L3560DT: 4WD
L3560GST: 4WD 12-speed
L3560HST: hydrostatic
L3560HSTC: hydro cab

Kubota L3560 Engine:
Kubota 1.8L 3-cyl diesel
Kubota L3560 Power:
Engine (gross): 37 hp [27.6 kW]
Engine (net): 35 hp [26.1 kW]
PTO (claimed): 29.5 hp [22.0 kW] (gear)
28 hp [20.9 kW] (hydro)

Capacity:
Fuel: 13.5 gal [51.1 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Control: position control, draft control optional
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 2646 lbs [1200 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Rear RPM: 540 (1.375)
Mid PTO: optional
Mid RPM: 2000

Dimensions & Tires:
Weight: 3483 lbs [1579 kg] (DT ROPS)
3494 lbs [1584 kg] (GST ROPS)
3505 lbs [1589 kg] (hydro ROPS)
3880 lbs [1759 kg] (hydro cab)
Wheelbase: 71.1 inches [180 cm]
Length: 115 inches [292 cm]
Width: 59.8 inches [151 cm] (min)
Height (ROPS): 97.2 inches [246 cm]
Height (cab): 90.6 inches [230 cm]
Ground clearance: 13.5 inches [34 cm]
Rear axle: Flange
Front tread: 45.5 inches [115 cm]
Rear tread:47.2/51.2/54.5/58.3 inches

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post foldable ROPS. Grand Cab with air-conditioning available with hydrostatic.

Hydraulics:
Gear Pump flow: 8.3 gpm [31.4 lpm]
Hydro Pump flow: 8.1 gpm [30.7 lpm]
Gear Total flow: 13.2 gpm [50.0 lpm]
Hydro Total flow: 12.8 gpm [48.4 lpm]
Gear Steering flow: 4.9 gpm [18.5 lpm]
Hydro Steering flow: 4.7 gpm [17.8 lpm]

Electrical:
Ground: negative
Charging system: alternator
ROPS Charging amps: 40
Cab Charging amps: 60

Page information:
Last update: October 20, 2013
Copyright: Copyright 2016 TractorData LLC
Contact: Peter@TractorData.com

 

[Junguda]

Wow.... those are some great plans and great advice from TBN.... as always... so the pressure is on to say something really wise....

Even though 50 acres is a lot of land... there are some “Farm Snobs” that will classify that as a “Hobby Farm”... their hobby farm salesman’s office is in the “Back Corner”... and they specialize in making you feel so unimportant you will agree to buy that 300 hp earth mover to prove you’re a “Real Farmer”... TBN is a great resource to fight that urge...

Ok that wasn’t all that wise... so I’ll offer the following Economic History of Tractor’s link:

Economic History of Tractors in the United States

It may be interesting to see how tractors... and soon... you will influence our economy...

Good luck with your decision and keep us posted...

 

[kthompson]

Four foot bed requires a wider stance than some tractors may offer that are popular here. The normal word on tire width is the center line of the rear tires so you have to also add in the width of a tire to get the net width. About 54 inches use to be the standard width for row farming. There is several common widths out there such as 20, 24, 30 and 36 inch rows now. On those widths the tractor is set for multi row widths added together. IE for 30 inch row the tires are at 60 inches. Very common width for row tractors. That I think is the very narrowest you can get by with, then you much consider the tire width. Most likely that is the width you will need with normal tires on that size tractor. If you must go to wider setup you need to verify the tractor you are considering will work. You will find in true "row" or crop tractors the same model of tractor has options as to row width with wheel options and yes axle options.

On a row crop tractor the 54 to 60 or even 72 inch spacing of the rear wheels is often done by some combo of swapping the rear tires and rotating the rim. You may move the right wheel assembly to the left to move from say 54 to 72 inch spacing or you may flip the rim dish to get that spacing or the 60 inch spacing. Now you would be blessed to find tractor you like with the "spin out rims" which are made to lose a locking clamp or such and use the tractors on power to "spin" the wheel to move it in or out to adjust the width.You will notice these have metal rails for lack of better term on the rims that are like a screw thread to change the width by the rotation of the tire assembly. Front axles don't vary as much and normally are relative easy.

Again, moving rear wheels with cast rims or fill with ballast are very heavy and dangerous. Also be very carefully in supporting a tractor when removing one wheel but most certainly both at same time.

That size of produce growing can be a big big job depending on the crops you will be growing. Hope it works well for you. Had a produce grower that lives nears us who farmed maybe more and he had several tractors. Each one hooked to it's own implement, do not think he ever changed implement from that tractor.